Creamy Plolenta, the signature dish at Provisions in Mount Kisco. Amy Sowder photos By AMY SOWDER The milk hits the pot first. Chef Eric Korn lifts a quart of Ronnybrook Farm whole milk — the real thing, cream-top, local — and eases it into the pan over medium heat. He watches it with quiet attention, the way a person watches something they have made many times but never stopped caring about. His hands are unhurried. His expression is soft, almost nostalgic. “It reminds me of my grandma,” he said.