Jonathan Gold on Muck Rack

Jonathan Gold Verified

Restaurant Critic and Columnist — LA Times
As seen in:  LA Times, Rolling Stone, LA Weekly

The belly of Los Angeles. @LATimes restaurant critic.

Barrel & Ashes: A classically trained chef does barbecue in Studio City — Los Angeles, in the last several years, has become something of a paradise for what I’ve taken to calling Chefs Without Portfolio, highly skilled young cooks, killing time between major projects, who have done things like reinvent gastropubs, run oversubscribed pop-ups, or open taquerias that honor the precepts of modernist cuisine.

10 great Italian restaurants — Los Angeles has never been rich in the sort of red-sauce Italian restaurants so common on the other coast, but it has always been notable for the other kind: restaurants in which Italian cooking and the idea of fine dining were not incompatible.

Love Me Tandoor | Counter Intelligence | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly — Photo by Anne FishbeinAS MUCH AS I LIKE THE MORE REFINED SORT OF Indian cuisine, I find myself drawn these days to the brute glory of Pakistani cooking instead. Where some Indian curries can be as delicate as butterfly wings, Pakistani curries practically scream with flavor, not just chiles but...

Gluten Free Forever magazine hits the stands — Why yes, that magazine I've been carrying around all day is called Gluten Free Forever - or "GFF" to its best friends. And yes, that is the third recipe from it I've photocopied today. But I haven't turned gluten-free on you, I swear.

Review: Nozawa Land keeps growing. What that means for L.A. sushi. — When I first went to Sushi Nozawa near the end of 1987, I was mostly impressed with its rigor. The fish was good enough, the usual parade of tuna, yellowtail and mackerel, but there was a sign that read, "Today's special: Trust me," and the chef, Kazunori Nozawa, made it clear that you were expected to eat what you were served in the order you were served it.

Taco Tuesday: Beef lip tacos — Tacos al vapor may not be the most immediately lovable members of the taco family. The tortillas are steamed instead of griddled, which means that the delicious smack of toasted corn has been replaced by a kind of puddingy softness, and it is often difficult to keep them from falling apart in your hands.

Review: Koreatown's Saint Martha restaurant is a shotgun marriage of opposites — Your opinion of Saint Martha, a cramped new bistro in a Koreatown mini-mall, will probably correlate pretty closely with your view on steak and oyster tartare, the default signature dish. The tartare appears on the short menu under the heading Rawesome. It comes to the table flanked by two scorching-hot empanadas stuffed with molten bone marrow.

Camera+ ~ photo by thejgold

Taco Tuesday: Chicken neck tacos in East L.A. — Los Angeles is the greatest city in the world, and don’t let anybody tell you otherwise. It is the center of the global entertainment industry. Its scientists pilot spacecraft to Mars. And it is home to a restaurant specializing in chicken neck tacos. It is hard to imagine anything more cosmopolitan than that.

Jonathan Gold: Szechuan Impression's chicken skewers all expectations — Bobo chicken, at least as interpreted at Szechuan Impression, is a party in a pot, a ceramic pot that strongly resembles a novelty St. Patrick's Day hat, half-filled with chile-laced broth and with long bamboo skewers sticking up from the vessel in almost comic profusion, like spines from a porcupine or needles from the flank of an acupuncture patient.
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Nov 26, 2014

Butter that brioche! Stop by Lunchtime With Mr. Gold, live chat at noon.

Nov 26, 2014

A dozen consecutive tweets about morris dancing. To what do I owe the pleasure?

Nov 26, 2014

Try Eagle Rock Italian Bakery. Or maybe Guidi Marcello for a frozen import. RT @the_chez5 A good Cassata cake in LA?

Nov 25, 2014

He held three Michelin stars, but how does he do with ribs? A first peek at Barrel & Ashes.

Nov 24, 2014

RT @evankleiman: After @thejgold and I talked about my famed toaster oven everyone want to know which one it is. Here it is folks.

Nov 21, 2014

Zacatecas (old-school Cal-Mex), or the Salted Pig. @AndrewStellar Anything in Riverside for a quick lunch?

Nov 21, 2014

Yamashiro? RT @AJMoorehead I've been looking for LA places that cook dishes on salt blocks

Nov 19, 2014

RT @biggayicecream: @thejgold you'd better say MY milkshake, "Mr. Gold", unless you want to say hello to my little friend.

Nov 19, 2014

Whose milkshake brings all the boys to the yard? Ask me at Lunchtime With Mr. Gold, live chat at noon.

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