Jonathan Gold on Muck Rack

Jonathan Gold Verified

Restaurant Critic and Columnist — LA Times
As seen in:  LA Times, Rolling Stone, LA Weekly

The belly of Los Angeles. @LATimes restaurant critic.

Taco Tuesday: Naan tacos at California Chutney — The Chipotlization of the world seems inevitable at this point. A quick glance at Google turns up the Chipotle of South East Asian food, the Chipotle of Mediterranean food, the Chipotle of Japanese food, the Chipotle of mac 'n’ cheese and more Chipotles of pizza than you can shake a pepperoni at.

At Empress Pavilion in Chinatown, it's not 1991, but not bad either — Empress Pavilion is the biggest restaurant in Chinatown, a glittery, hangar-size seafood palace built at the height of the late 1980s boom.

Cadet, Kris Tominaga's new Santa Monica restaurant, not yet a major — If you were a restaurant guy tasked with opening a chill but on-trend restaurant in the city of Santa Monica at the moment, you might come up with something that looks a lot like Cadet. The exposed brick goes without saying, and the big grill for wood-roasting and the low-key music that could probably pass for a weekend DJ set on KCRW.

Redbird sets a divine scene at St. Vibiana's in downtown L.A. — Redbird may be the most anticipated Los Angeles restaurant of the current decade, a venture involving the city's highest-profile food entrepreneur at the moment, an actual deconsecrated cathedral and a chef for whom greatness has lain just out of reach for more than a decade.

Chefs: Hold the egg, please; not every dish needs one on top — Not that anyone's counting, but we may be in our sixth or seventh year of the Egg on Everything fad in Los Angeles restaurants, and, unlike kale, bacon or hamachi crudo, it shows no signs of going away - not with the lines at Egg Slut approaching the length of a city block at the Grand Central Market on a Sunday morning.

Bestia's Ori Menashe, Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado win Best New Chef awards — In a ceremony in New York on Tuesday, local chefs Ori Menashe of the downtown Italian restaurant Bestia and Carlos Salgado of Costa Mesa’s tasting-menu restaurant Taco Maria were named Best New Chefs by Food & Wine , an award the magazine bestows on 10 young chefs each year.

Taco Tuesday: Migas at HomeState — Like everybody else who has spent 15 minutes in Austin, Texas, I came away from the city this March with a strange, new longing for breakfast tacos, a food group of which I had barely been aware before the visit. At their best, breakfast tacos are constructed on freshly made flour tortillas, although corn tortillas are also acceptable.

Lincoln restaurant in Pasadena has things that can bowl you over — Avocado toast? That was so last year. We are now in the age of the phenomenon I have come to think of as Things in a Bowl, a culinary invention that may depend on rice, pasta, whole grains or legumes but usually includes a poached egg of one sort or another and always, always comes with kale.

Object of Desire: Galet de Tours by Rodolphe Le Meunier — Rodolphe Le Meunier, as we have mentioned, may be the Jimmy Page of the cheese world, a third-generation affineur who won the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France, which is kind of like the Olympic gold medal for French cheesemongers and other craftspeople, at an age where most of his peers were still learning the difference between a Langres and a Saint-Marcellin.

Barrel & Ashes a crackling fine take on Texas barbecue — When you talk to the masters of Texas barbecue, men and women who measure their lives in cords of post oak and fatty beef by the ton, you will hear about convection rates and sedimentation, humidity and wind, and the way fat renders in April as opposed to the way it renders in May.
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Apr 27, 2015

A bit of litigation with your bo ssam? The oddest (and most guarded) @jayrayner1 review ever.

Apr 26, 2015

So what foods do we find in an Etruscan tomb? Eggs. Lots of eggs. #DeathSalonGV

Apr 26, 2015

"If you haven't seen The Loved One, come over to my house. I have popcorn." - SE Troop #DeathSalonGV

Apr 26, 2015

Not only was cremation economical, says Sarah Elizabeth Troop, it took care of the problem of vampires. #DeathSalonGV

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