Jonathan Gold on Muck Rack

Jonathan Gold Verified

Restaurant Critic and Columnist — LA Times
As seen in:  LA Times, Rolling Stone, LA Weekly

The belly of Los Angeles. @LATimes restaurant critic.

Porridge and its (dis)contents: Congee, jok, haleem and what Grandma ate — Last week, we visited Porridge + Puffs , chef Minh Phan’s monument to the warm, oozy bowls of happiness that obsess so many of us this time of year, when temperatures plunge into the 50s at night, backyard trees groan with citrus and the waves are a bit too chilly to surf.

Gifts for food lovers: Italian stovetop toasters, urfa pepper and country ham — A good meal, it is well-known, can be constructed using nothing more than a sharp knife, a flame and a sturdy pan, plus maybe a pot of boiling water if you feel like having coffee afterward. Escoffier, after all, did just fine without an immersion circulator or a snootful of chermoula.

At Porridge and Puffs, spoonfuls of devotion in every bowl — We all have particular ideas of what a porridge restaurant might look like, whether a Hong Kong-style congee shop like Delicious Corner in Monterey Park or a Taiwanese porridge hall like Lu's Garden in San Gabriel, Atlacatl and its list of Salvadoran atoles, the Koreatown pumpkin-porridge specialist Bon Juk or Veronica's Kitchen in Inglewood, with its Nigerian fufu menu.

Jonathan Gold: L.A. Chapter is hip, but the cuisine is hit-and-miss — L.A. Chapter thrums before a show at the next-door Theatre at Ace Hotel. The tables scrunch together. Performers exchange elaborate handshakes on their way from dinner to backstage.

Camera+ ~ photo by thejgold

At Scopa, Antonia Lofaso delivers zesty Italian American food — It's pleasant, Saturday brunch at Scopa Italian Roots, a bit of calm compared with the roar of nearby Abbot Kinney Boulevard. The filtered sunlight in the double-height dining room feels like late afternoon, although it is just after noon. Big tables of neighborhood regulars, so loud late in the evening, are polite, almost subdued.

Kickin' it Ol' School: Earlez Grille's version of LAUSD coffee cake — If you grew up in the Los Angeles, your fond memories of high school may include the warm coffee cake served mornings in district cafeterias - a dense, fragrant confection of yellow cake dusted with a sandy topping of cinnamon sugar, plain but comforting, especially when you chased it with a gulp or two of milk.

Barrel & Ashes: A classically trained chef does barbecue in Studio City — Los Angeles, in the last several years, has become something of a paradise for what I’ve taken to calling Chefs Without Portfolio, highly skilled young cooks, killing time between major projects, who have done things like reinvent gastropubs, run oversubscribed pop-ups, or open taquerias that honor the precepts of modernist cuisine.

10 great Italian restaurants — Los Angeles has never been rich in the sort of red-sauce Italian restaurants so common on the other coast, but it has always been notable for the other kind: restaurants in which Italian cooking and the idea of fine dining were not incompatible.

Love Me Tandoor | Counter Intelligence | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly — Photo by Anne FishbeinAS MUCH AS I LIKE THE MORE REFINED SORT OF Indian cuisine, I find myself drawn these days to the brute glory of Pakistani cooking instead. Where some Indian curries can be as delicate as butterfly wings, Pakistani curries practically scream with flavor, not just chiles but...
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Dec 19, 2014

It's gonna be another porridge porridge porridge weekend, for sure.

Dec 19, 2014

Consider yourself lucky that we can even find poutine. RT @theOpenJ Montreal-style bagels??

Dec 18, 2014

An honor just to be nominated. RT @TripeUK Second place in the #HOTTYS Journalism category is... @thejgold! #MSisOffal

Dec 17, 2014

Hart & the Hunter. RT @michellebranch @augustlights Food emergency question: where in L.A. can I buy pimento cheese?!

Dec 17, 2014

Reheated latkes? Join me for Lunchtime With Mr. Gold, live chat right now.

Dec 16, 2014

RT @annfriedman: Gonna reread this @latimes investigation into Mexican produce farms every time I feel smug about not eating meat:

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