I have to admit, the first time I went out surfing it was a disaster! The waves, the current and that slippery board under my feet all had their say as I spent more time on the shore than in the ocean. The second try was no better – even though I had a wetsuit. Surfing is hard. I temporarily gave up after a third failed attempt when I silently cried “uncle” in the pounding surf while my rented board disappeared behind an incoming wave, which then crushed me.