"There used to be dirt everywhere and the kids were filthy," Zeinab Mokalled tells me. She is remembering the 1980s and 90s, when Israel occupied part of the south of the country for 15 years, and waste collection came to a halt in her village, Arabsalim. As the years went by, it piled up, and Mokalled went to the regional governor to ask for help. "Why do you care? We are not Paris," he told her. "I knew that day that I had to take it upon myself," she says.