Arriving in Seville from Barcelona by bullet train, I inhaled the scent of orange blossoms. My taxi squeezed down narrow cobblestone streets laid out in the days before cars existed. Church chimes lightened my path to a downtown park, where Flamenco students danced, their ruffled sleeves and shawls lifting like wings in a tepid breeze. Free, fleeting, lively, proud, spontaneous. Ah, charming Andalucía, the culture of Spain adorned with traces of ancient Moorish civilization.