Chef Thi Le wanted to own her own restaurant by the time she was 35. She opened the doors to Anchovy, in Melbourne's Richmond, on her 30th birthday, so she's way ahead of schedule. Much like Lee Ho Fook's Victor Liong, Thi Le grew up in Sydney's western suburbs. "But," she pauses. "I'm probably a bit more ghetto than Victor." Le grew up in Doonside, a suburb of Blacktown, in Sydney's outer west.