For the ragu, in a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat the EVOO, two turns of the pan, over medium. When it ripples, melt in the butter. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic; partially cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the meat, sage, rosemary, bay leaf and cloves; season with salt and pepper. Cook, breaking the meat into small pieces, until browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir 1 minute.