For 51 weeks each year, a wine writer can write about whatever wine whimsy that strikes his or her fancy. But there is one special week where the topic is pre-ordained. In America, wine writers are obligated each fall to pen a piece on wines for Thanksgiving. I get it, of course. Not only is Thanksgiving our national day of gathering, one in which everyone wants everything to be perfect, it is also the kick-off of wine buying season. Thanksgiving, the Christmas holidays, New Year's Eve.