For an island nation, we eat a surprisingly small amount of fish. Batter it or turn it into fingers, and maybe we’ll take a look. If you’re feeling fancy, you might trim some slices of salmon and serve it with lemon, but that’s about as far as it goes. Yet, whenever you visit a fish-loving nation – Japan, Spain, or Scandinavia, perhaps – the seafood is a revelation. Aquavit in St James has a Michelin star, but don’t let that be the reason you go.