In 1980, Voytek led a team to Dhaulagiri to attempt an alpine-style ascent of the East Face. His partners were Ludwik Wilczyński from Poland, René Ghilini from France, and his tried-and-true partner from England, Alex MacIntyre. Voytek had tried the unclimbed face the year before, but it was out of shape. He could see that in order to climb it, they would need icy conditions. As Voytek described it: ‘The idea of a direct line, almost an insolent line, was incredibly attractive to me.