Meet Brad Hickey, aka Brash Higgins, the New York City somm turned McLaren Vale winemaker with a thing for alternative wine styles. It’s a brisk autumn afternoon in McLaren Vale. A group of pruners gather around a fire, gnarly fingers held above the flames. The motley crew of drifters, expats, and Fleurieu Peninsula locals chew the fat over plastic bowls full of steaming Jambalaya. They have weathered skin, an eye for detail, and cause for celebration. Pruning season is nearly done for the year.