The belly of Los Angeles. @LATimes restaurant critic.

Jonathan Gold finds more fun with Japanese fried food at Tempura Endo — You've had tempura - that tangle of crisply fried vegetables that showed up in the bento the last time you had Japanese lunch or the fried shrimp that came with the teriyaki when you got the No. 2 combo meal. Perhaps you were lucky enough to try the tempura course at Komatsu in Torrance before it closed its doors.

Winsome takes Echo Park diner food beyond hipster brunch — Have you ever walked around Machu Picchu, the abandoned Inca fortress set high in the Andes? Because a trip to Winsome in Echo Park can feel like a modernist version of that, a hot, waterless stroll from the parking lot through the abandoned Department of Water and Power campus, shrouded in half-dead tropical foliage, surrounded by the soaring precast concrete ziggurats that must have seemed so forward-thinking when they were erected in 1962.

Jonathan Gold says Shibumi in DTLA feels like a Tokyo restaurant - and you should order cucumbers — Did you manage to land a seat at Shibumi? Fine. You are probably halfway through the cucumbers then, maybe a nip of sake, at least a hint of an evening well-begun. The cucumbers have been sliced, peeled in a fashion that makes their skins look like watered silk, and thickly sliced, and arranged in an earthen bowl.

Burmese cooking gets creative at Daw Yee Myanmar Corner in Silver Lake — Have the design magazines made it out to Daw Yee Myanmar Corner yet? Because it is hard to imagine a restaurant better-suited to a page or two in Dwell: a small Silver Lake dining room decked out with glowing pink-and-blue neon and a black-and-white tiled wall, gilded faux-crocodile wallpaper, brightly colored metal chairs and plants straight from the back room at OSH.

Jonathan Gold reviews the Cannibal, your New World Order butcher-shop-and-beer restaurant — My brother Mark, who has been to the environmental movement in Los Angeles more or less what James Worthy was to the Lakers, is particular about what he eats.

Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

Jonathan Gold reviews Lasa, a temporary Filipino restaurant with long-range ambitions — We are here once again at the Far East Plaza, the modest Chinatown mall that is home to the recently reviewed Howlin' Ray's, Pok Pok Phat Thai and Chego, among other players in the current food movement. We are in Unit 120, the self-described restaurant incubator space, run by Alvin Cailan, whom you may know from Eggslut.

At Frogtown's Salazar, Jonathan Gold finds a Sonora barbecue joint, steakhouse and evolving tortillas — The story of Salazar begins with a tortilla. Or at least I think it begins with a tortilla, because it might also begin with an old auto body shop tricked out into a restaurant, a grill that creaked into being when a gas line couldn't quite be permitted, or a laissez-faire outdoor arrangement of tables, chairs and desert plants that resembles the Texas "Mad Max"-style trailer-centered joints you find in South Austin more than it does pretty much anything in Los Angeles.

Din Tai Fung closes original shop in the SGV, opens flagship in the Westfield Santa Anita mall — I was, I confess, expecting to see a lot of mournful faces in the line outside the original U.S. Din Tai Fung in Arcadia last weekend, only a few hours before it was scheduled to shut down for good.

Enchilada Month! — If you have been to La Casita Mexicana , you have probably tried one or another of the enchiladas, which rank among the very best reasons to hop in the car and drive to Bell.
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Sep 25, 2016

@commiegirl1 @webjournalist It's thoughtless of me, isn't it. I wish there were Billings pupuserias to send you to!

Sep 25, 2016

@webjournalist Boring answer, but Los Molcajetes? The place I liked on Pico by Alvarado Place seems to have vanished.

Sep 23, 2016

RT @thejgold_ebooks: I can't play the piano but I am feeling mild hostility toward the state of Missouri.

Sep 22, 2016

@DLRuderman Not sure I've ever seen one outside of Julia Child? My guess is that Viktor Benes will have something close.

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