The belly of Los Angeles. @LATimes restaurant critic.

Jonathan Gold: Delicious Food Corner is the most Hong Kong place in the San Gabriel Valley

Everson Royce Bar is a boozy playground with bar food done right — Everson Royce Bar isn't really a restaurant. To be fair, it doesn't even try to be a restaurant - the word "bar" is in its name, right after the names of one of its partner's young twins. It doesn't serve restaurant food.

Gus's Fried Chicken answers a universal call — Have you tried Gus's Fried Chicken? You're probably going to want to try Gus's Fried Chicken. Because it's pretty remarkable stuff, even in chicken-obsessed Los Angeles: a burnished red-gold, pieces bigger than they are small, whose peppery heat at first seems mild, even nonexistent, until it starts creeping up a few bites in, a heat that makes you glad you have a pint of sweet ice tea by your side.

Jonathan Gold finds Kettle Black's eccentric Italian illuminating. Try the octopus salad. — How many Edison bulbs hang from the ceiling at Kettle Black? So many Edison bulbs. I got to the mid-70s the night I counted - there are more - but I got distracted by the 17-foot-high back bar, the weathered wood floor and the industrial-steel undercarriage of the stools.

Jonathan Gold finds more fun with Japanese fried food at Tempura Endo — You've had tempura - that tangle of crisply fried vegetables that showed up in the bento the last time you had Japanese lunch or the fried shrimp that came with the teriyaki when you got the No. 2 combo meal. Perhaps you were lucky enough to try the tempura course at Komatsu in Torrance before it closed its doors.

Winsome takes Echo Park diner food beyond hipster brunch — Have you ever walked around Machu Picchu, the abandoned Inca fortress set high in the Andes? Because a trip to Winsome in Echo Park can feel like a modernist version of that, a hot, waterless stroll from the parking lot through the abandoned Department of Water and Power campus, shrouded in half-dead tropical foliage, surrounded by the soaring precast concrete ziggurats that must have seemed so forward-thinking when they were erected in 1962.

Jonathan Gold says Shibumi in DTLA feels like a Tokyo restaurant - and you should order cucumbers — Did you manage to land a seat at Shibumi? Fine. You are probably halfway through the cucumbers then, maybe a nip of sake, at least a hint of an evening well-begun. The cucumbers have been sliced, peeled in a fashion that makes their skins look like watered silk, and thickly sliced, and arranged in an earthen bowl.

Burmese cooking gets creative at Daw Yee Myanmar Corner in Silver Lake — Have the design magazines made it out to Daw Yee Myanmar Corner yet? Because it is hard to imagine a restaurant better-suited to a page or two in Dwell: a small Silver Lake dining room decked out with glowing pink-and-blue neon and a black-and-white tiled wall, gilded faux-crocodile wallpaper, brightly colored metal chairs and plants straight from the back room at OSH.

Jonathan Gold reviews the Cannibal, your New World Order butcher-shop-and-beer restaurant — My brother Mark, who has been to the environmental movement in Los Angeles more or less what James Worthy was to the Lakers, is particular about what he eats.

Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

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Oct 20, 2016

@DemocratMachine Buffon is the (very good) goalie for Juventus. Maybe your friend is hoping for a miracle save?

Oct 19, 2016

Shakshuka - nice! Stop by for Lunchtime With Mr. Gold, live chat at noon. 

Oct 18, 2016

Spookiest words in the English language? "Joe Blanton now warming in the Dodgers pen."

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