Since opening in 2019, Wellness Sushi has made a name for itself as Denver’s premier (not to mention only) purveyor of 100% plant-based Japanese cuisine. Now chef-owner Steven Lee and his wife-partner, Phoebe, are expanding to Boulder, but their new venture, Wellness Counter, is what you might call a whole different animal. For one thing, rather than a fast-casual operation, this Japanese restaurant (which opens May 16) will be a more upscale affair: table service, full bar, and all.