Special Club has always been easier to spot than to explain. In North American wine circles, I’ve heard it reduced to a bottle shape, a prestige tier, a grower Champagne shortcut, or, most simply and not exactly accurately, The Club. Each description contributes to the explanation. None of them quite reaches the point. Over the past few years, I’ve had the rare privilege of tasting alongside every current grower in Club Trésors de Champagne.