Northwest of Brothers, Oregon, I turn off Highway 20 and leave the lean, high desert of eastern Oregon behind. Headed for Oregon’s Cascade Range, I drive north on a level two-lane road past scattered ranches under a wide-open blue sky. The road rises, and the land begins to change from brown to green. Clumps of trees dot the distant, rounded hills. Soon the trees crowd the edge of the pavement and begin to blot out the sky. I lose the sky for good on a blacktop road that winds up into heavy timber.