Words: Matthew Jones | Illustrations: Brett Ryder I knew they were coming – I’d spotted the telltale symbols on my OS map when planning my route. But as I climbed the hillside, they were hidden from view by a blanket of grey. Unusually, this meant I heard them before I saw them: a ‘whump, whump’ of spinning blades, before a tall, tapering pillar loomed out of the fog. This was stage 12 of the Cambrian Way, Wales’s finest long-distance trail.