A fragile two-week ceasefire is now in effect in the war against Iran. A pause in the bombing. Long enough, perhaps, for negotiations. Long enough, perhaps, to notice what is still standing, against President Trump’s warning that “a whole civilization will die tonight, never to be brought back again.” But not long enough to believe it will hold. In October and November 1999, a lifetime ago, I traveled to Tehran, Isfahan, and Tabriz on a United Nations human rights mission.