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Agya Afari in Dodowa, Ghana, turns the corn and cassava dough in a pan perched on a coal pot as his middle child fans the coals. Nearby, his wife, Yaa Manu, grinds pepper, tomato, and onion to make a sauce for supper. The only form of protein, two boiled eggs, is traditionally reserved for the adults in the household. “This has become a way of life for us lately—banku and boiled eggs with ground pepper,” Afari laments in Twi.
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