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Articles by Amar Grover
A roaring comeback: Why India's Sariska Tiger Reserve is worth a visit
To borrow from poet William Blake’s celebrated 1794 poem The Tyger, India’s tigers are indeed burning brighter in 2025. Following the latest reconnaissance surveys, the country’s National Tiger Conservation Authority (NTCA) recently announced that India’s tiger population has doubled in a decade. An estimated 3,682 individuals – around 75% of the global population – now occupy over 138,000sq km.
A former fort, an old palace: Explore the rustic charms of eastern Rajasthan
From the battlements I savour the view. To my left, Kalisil Lake’s waters shimmer in a soft haze. In front, beyond sloping thickets of shrubbery lies a pretty patchwork of verdant fields with dark hills edging the horizon. Lowing buffaloes and the occasional tinkle of goats’ bells break the stillness. In this eyrie I’m also spoilt for choice: to linger on the curtained day-bed in one bastion or wallow in the other’s jacuzzi. Barely 15 years ago such options would have been unthinkable here.
The Best Hotels in Funchal Portugal for Every...
Funchal, the lively capital of Madeira, has an almost bewildering range of accommodation, encompassing modest hostels, swanky boutique hotels and venerable quintas (manor houses). Cut through the confusion and find your dream destination below. Loved by over 40s Madeira, found north of the Canary Islands off the Moroccan coast, has an enviable climate and lush, rugged scenery in spades. Its largest city and capital is Funchal, a one-time port of call that’s now a free-standing destination.
The Best Hotels in Sapporo Japan for Every...
Whether you’re looking for a traditional Japanese inn, budget-friendly hostel or something a bit quirkier (how about a comic book-themed capsule hotel?), there’s something for you in Sapporo. Loved by over 40s Sapporo, capital of Hokkaido island and the largest city in northern Japan, is chiefly famed for its well-known beer (the oldest in the country) and the February Snow Festival, featuring huge illuminated snow sculptures in urban parks.
The Best Hotels in Phnom Penh Cambodia for...
Although the ‘urban grit’ of Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is relatively low-key, like most Asian capitals it’s hardly a tranquil city and the exhilarating buzz of day can be the bane of nights. The best places to stay offer easy access to the pleasures of the city and shelter when it’s needed. From modern skyscrapers to heritage villas, the hotel havens here have also never been more varied, colourful or offered more choice.
A new look at Old Delhi: walking in the walled city of India's capital
I’m perched on a lofty Old Delhi rooftop gamely trying to fly a small red kite. Awkwardly tugging its string, the kite dips and yaws, eventually crashing on to a distant terrace, scattering cats and delighting children. My gaze is drawn to the pale onion dome and 40-metre high minarets of the 17th-century Jami Masjid, India’s largest mosque, which pierce the skyline barely 300 metres away.
A personal pilgrimage to Ethiopia’s holiest sites
Redzi Bernard recreates a journey her mother made fifty years earlier, travelling across mountains to reach the wondrous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia, and discovering a route lost to modern tourism EXPEDITION DETAILS • Distance travelled: 170km • Time taken: 5 days • Transportation: Walking/Mule • Starting point: Weldiya • End point: Lalibela • Team size: 1 trekker, 3 guides, 3 porters • Essential item: Water filtration bottle.
Pickles, packet noodles and plenty of leeches
Matthew Jones and Rosalie Wright were delighted when they unearthed details of an expedition to a remote corner of Borneo’s rainforest in the 1950s.
China’s social credit systems - a step too far in a bid to shape a society?
The Chinese government aims to put a ‘social credit system’ in place by 2020; a virtual scoring platform that uses personal data to assess the behaviour and ‘trustworthiness’ of every citizen. But can 24/7 surveillance ever be a good thing, and is the growing accessibility of personal data placing the UK on a similar path? Credit scores are a familiar part of life in the UK.
The Silk Road: An object lesson
In an epic new book from traveller and curator Susan Whitfield, 80 leading scholars detail the history of the fabled Silk Road is through its people, cultures and landscapes Silk Roads situates the ancient routes against the landscapes that defined them, to reveal the raw materials that they produced, the means of travel that were employed to traverse them and the communities that were shaped by them.
Expeditions Unpacked: Discover what the great explorers took into the unknown
In this unique and enthralling new book, explorer and survivalist Ed Stafford curates 25 great expeditions through the lens of the kit these remarkable explorers took with them. In an environment where lack of preparation could mean certain death, the equipment carried, ridden and sailed into uncharted territories could mean the success or failure of an expedition. Was it simply a case of better provisions and preparation that helped Amundsen beat Scott to the South Pole?
Reliving the Transglobe Expedition: the first and only attempt to circumnavigate the globe via both poles
The Transglobe Expedition entered the history books by becoming the first (and still only) successful attempt to circumnavigate the globe via both poles.
Following in the footsteps of the first western explorer in southwest China
Despite being among the first Western explorers to uncover southwestern China in the 1920s, American botanist Joseph Rock is far from being a household name. Today, one explorer is attempting to revitalise his reputation Plodding up the rocky trail, I pause briefly in the thin air to catch my breath. Far below stretches a deep narrow valley, its high jagged ridges and peaks bathed in dazzling sunshine while dark forests beneath remain cocooned in ice-cold shade.
Searching for Star Dust: the hunt to uncover an Andean mystery
Nearly two decades after the mystery 1947 disappearance of a plane was partially solved, three British mountaineers attempted to travel to the Andean crash site; finding that memory, spoken word and fact are even more slippery than the ice releasing its grip on the aircraft So you want to travel to the Lancastrian?’ From a mid-winter Bristol suburb, my call has rung through to the Refugio Plaza military base, high in the mountains southwest of the Malbec-growing hills of Mendoza, Argentina.
Nevada: A different kind of thrill
Though best known for its gambling capital, Las Vegas, southern Nevada has so much more to offer, from canyons and lakes to desert and dunes. All available within just a few miles of the Strip it would be a shame to miss the natural wonders the state has to offer If there’s one thing you often hear said about the Las Vegas Strip, it’s that it’s worth seeing – once. For many, a day or two may well be enough.
Exploring India's remote Nubra Valley
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Iran's Alborz Mountains: Explore an ancient land of 'Assassins'
© Amar Grover Iran Alborz Mountains Beyond the first ramparts of northern Iran's Alborz Mountains, Gazorkhan village sits beneath an impenetrable-looking wall of jagged ridges in an elongated valley. The surrounding pomegranate orchards and poplar glades fill a verdant shelf of inclined land. A mass of gray-brown rock looms alongside the village and you can just about discern fortifications perched atop its summit.
Iran's Alborz Mountains: Explore an ancient land of 'Assassins'
(CNN) — Beyond the first ramparts of northern Iran's Alborz Mountains, Gazorkhan village sits beneath an impenetrable-looking wall of jagged ridges in an elongated valley. The surrounding pomegranate orchards and poplar glades fill a verdant shelf of inclined land. A mass of gray-brown rock looms alongside the village and you can just about discern fortifications perched atop its summit.
The cultural safari: luxury tented camping in central India
Imagine you’re an Indophile traveller having already covered India’s vast array of sights. Perhaps there’s now a nagging feeling that you’re about to run out of worthwhile destinations and experiences linked to decent hotels. I’ve staved off this dispiriting cul-de-sac for years, and most recently with Kaafila Camps. The brainchild of Hashim Tyabji, a veteran Indian naturalist and lodge operator, his camps’ neat strapline is “beyond the last hotel”.
Go Inside the Labyrinthine Medina of Fez
Set in the lowlands between the Rif and Middle Atlas mountain ranges in northern Morocco, the city of Fez has long been regarded as the countryâs cultural, spiritual, and intellectual heartland. From the ninth century, successive ruling dynasties began and expanded their imperial capital, transforming an undistinguished riverside village into a great seat of power and influence.
Yunnan, one of China’s most exotic provinces
Early mornings in downtown Lijiang come as standard with picture-postcard views of "Old China" – curving cobbled lanes, swollen red lanterns hanging from upturned eaves and water gurgling along willow-lined channels beneath quaint humped bridges. Then, as its townsfolk awaken and shopfront shutters open, the streets and eateries fill with chattering tourists, and the spell is interrupted.
Safari so good in the wilds of Zambia
Partway through wolfing down a moist slab of carrot cake, I suddenly pause, fork hovering in mid-air. Far across the dry riverbed opposite, a man-sized lizard appears to be climbing a near-vertical bank. I grab my binoculars. “Oh yes, they do that all the time,” says Brian Mukumbutu, our guide. “Look at those claws,” he continues nonchalantly, as the monitor hauls itself onto flat land and saunters off into shrubbery.
Kashmir: A rediscovered gem
Until recently, only hardier travellers to Kashmir seemed prepared to venture beyond Srinagar, its lake-filled heartland. Luxury was elusive in this celebrated Himalayan region famed for its beauty. Now, in Ladakh – Kashmir’s eastern and predominantly Buddhist enclave bordering Tibet – the Ultimate Travelling Camp’s “Chamba Camp” is setting a new standard and helps to bookend one of the region’s great overland journeys.
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