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Articles by Ann Walker
Review: Handmade dumplings shine at new Marin restaurant
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Crab dumplings are served at Tipsy Dumpling in Greenbrae. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Steamed corn and pork dumplings are served at Tipsy Dumpling in Greenbrae. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Hot and sour soup is served at Tipsy Dumpling in Greenbrae. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The interior of Tipsy Dumpling in Greenbrae. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Green beans are served at Tipsy Dumpling in Greenbrae.
Restaurant review: Marin natives’ passion for pizza felt at Oliver’s Pizzeria
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Sweet Salami Pizza at Oliver's Pizzeria in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Napoli Pizza at Oliver's Pizzeria in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The interior of Oliver's Pizzeria in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Little Gem Caesar Salad at Oliver's Pizzeria in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Celery and Date Salad at Oliver's Pizzeria in San Rafael.
Restaurant review: West Marin’s newest restaurant a big hit
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Manila Clams are served at Bar Auklet in Point Reyes Station. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) Grilled Sardines are served at Bar Auklet in Point Reyes Station. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) Crispy Pig Ears are served at Bar Auklet in Point Reyes Station. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) People eat outside at Bar Auklet in Point Reyes Station on Monday.
Review: San Rafael’s newest Italian restaurant does the classics well
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Scampi at Sapori Ristorante in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Pear and Cheese Fiocchi at Sapori Ristorante in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Server David Martinez tends to customers George Garcia of Fairfax and his grandson Diallo Garcia at Sapori Ristorante in San Rafael on July 23. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The exterior of Sapori Ristorante in San Rafael.
Review: 2 Marin residents create delicious, welcoming Mexican restaurant
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Steak Fajitas during lunch at Sabor a Mexico in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Cochinita Pibil Tacos are served during lunch at Sabor a Mexico in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Green Mole Sauce Chicken Enchiladas are served during lunch at Sabor a Mexico in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Grilled Chicken Quesadilla at Sabor a Mexico in San Rafael.
Restaurant review: Don’t skip dessert at Sausalito’s Lighthouse Bar and Grill
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Vanilla Creme Brulee at Lighthouse Bar and Grill in Sausalito. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Dungeness Crab Cake at Lighthouse Bar and Grill in Sausalito. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Petrale Sole at Lighthouse Bar and Grill in Sausalito. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Chocolate Mousse at Lighthouse Bar and Grill in Sausalito.
Review: Tiburon restaurant delivers unpretentious Sicilian dishes
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Caponata is served at Luna Blu in Tiburon. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Cioppino is served at Luna Blu in Tiburon. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The exterior of Luna Blu in Tiburon. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Mare e Monte is served at Luna Blu in Tiburon. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Kirsten and Thomas Judd of Tiburon enjoy drinks at Luna Blu in Tiburon on May 29.
Review: Seasonal dishes shine at new Sausalito restaurant
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Branzino at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) Cultivar's Grilled Asparagus starter is topped with a poached egg. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) People sit for lunch in the dining room of Cultivar in Sausalito on May 15. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) Grilled Squid Salad at Cultivar in Sausalito. (Alan Dep/Marin Independent Journal) Flower petals garnish the Seasonal Risotto at Cultivar in Sausalito.
Review: San Rafael restaurant delivers authentic Neapolitan pizza
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... A Marechiaro Pizza is pulled out of the wood-burning oven at Fratm Pizzeria in San Rafael on April 15. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Gnocchi Truffle at Fratm Pizzeria in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) A waiter tends to customers at Fratm Pizzeria in San Rafael on April 15. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Beets at Fratm Pizzeria in San Rafael.
Review: San Rafael’s newest Mexican restaurant full of flavor
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... A marinated pork taco is served at Tucan Tacos and Beer in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) A flight of margaritas is poured at Tucan Tacos and Beer in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) A mahi mahi taco is prepared at Tucan Tacos and Beer in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The outdoor dining area at Tucan Tacos and Beer in San Rafael.
Review: Fairfax’s Stillwater delivers great food, cocktails
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Poke Bowl at Stillwater in Fairfax. (Douglas Zimmerman/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) From left, the Hearts Desire, Adult Swim and Siamese Dream cocktails at Stillwater in Fairfax. (Douglas Zimmerman/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) Charred Napa Cabbage at Stillwater in Fairfax. (Douglas Zimmerman/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) The interior of Stillwater in Fairfax.
Marin restaurant review: Hot Italian delivers a good meal from beginning to end
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Basso Pinsa is served at Hot Italian in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Gelato is served at Hot Italian in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Jovannotti Pizza is served Hot Italian in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) The interior of Hot Italian in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal) Marcuzzi Salad is served at Hot Italian in San Rafael.
Review: Tiburon’s newest Mediterranean restaurant a delight
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Roasted Cauliflower is served at Troya in Tiburon. (Frankie Frost/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) Spinach Feta Borek is served at Troya in Tiburon. (Frankie Frost/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) Lamb Meatballs are served at Troya in Tiburon. (Frankie Frost/Special to the Marin Independent Journal) Vegetarian Moussaka is served at Troya in Tiburon.
Review: A West Marin restaurant where the food is as good as the view
We drove along Highway 1 to Marshall and toward the Lodge at Marconi, a hotel and event venue within a 62-acre historic state park overlooking the Tomales Bay. Signs directed us off the highway and up toward the hotel and to Mable’s Restaurant and Patio, our restaurant destination that evening. There’s parking just behind Mable’s. After parking, we walked the short distance back down the road to the steps leading up to Mable’s patio.
Review: A West Marin restaurant where the food is as good as the view
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... We drove along Highway 1 to Marshall and toward the Lodge at Marconi, a hotel and event venue within a 62-acre historic state park overlooking the Tomales Bay. Signs directed us off the highway and up toward the hotel and to Mable’s Restaurant and Patio, our restaurant destination that evening. There’s parking just behind Mable’s. After parking, we walked the short distance back down the road to the steps leading up to Mable’s patio.
Restaurant review: Charming atmosphere, well-executed dishes propel San Rafael’s Vin
It was 6:30 p.m. on a Friday evening, and downtown San Rafael was hopping. It felt good to be part of that vibe. After parking, I walked down Fourth Street past Laos Kitchen, one of my favorites for lunch or dinner, which I’ve reviewed before in the IJ. It was bustling, with more people standing in line for a table. Next door, I entered my destination, Vin. It’s a handsome space. There’s seating in the storefront windows and in brown upholstered booths along the exposed brick to the left.
Restaurant review: Marin chef’s new Japanese restaurant a big hit
We parked in front, left the noisy traffic behind us and entered the serenity of MaruJun. The owner, Novato chef Jun Takeda, spent three decades at Sushi to Dai For in San Rafael before opening his own spot in April in a strip mall on San Rafael’s Miracle Mile. With its minimalist décor, seating for 27 at tables and along the sushi bar, and comfortable chairs, our pleasant experience began as soon as we were shown to our table and were seated. Takeda has chosen not to offer sushi rolls on his menu.
Restaurant review: South Indian specialties shine at San Rafael’s Suvai
Suvai means “taste” in Tamil. Each of the large framed posters on the walls throughout the dining room celebrates one of the main taste profiles: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and savory. A balance of these is what captivates the palate — a balance that Indian cuisine, which uses the most spices of any cuisine, is particularly adroit at. Suvai’s menu offers foods from different areas of India and Asia, but I wanted to concentrate on South Indian dishes from their dinner menu for this review.
Restaurant review: Cozy digs, good food at Fairfax’s Sorella Caffe
While I waited for my friend to arrive at Sorella Caffe in Fairfax, I sat at a table by the window and engaged in one of my favorite pastimes: people-watching. And there were lots of them to watch. It was a Wednesday, so the farmers market was across the street in the old redwood grove. Parking had been a bit scarce with the added traffic of the market. Being Wednesday, wines by the bottle were half off at the restaurant, which seemed to be a good draw, with bottles of wine on most tables.
Restaurant review: Mill Valley’s Tamalpie still delivers great food, cocktails
With so many different styles of pizza, what makes one style “your” style? Is it determined by where you first started eating pizza? Someone once told me they’d never eaten a pizza they didn’t love. They must be easily pleased. I’d describe the pizza served at Tamalpie in Mill Valley as one with a Neapolitan crust and California-style toppings. This style suits its clientele just fine. The crust is thinnish, softly chewy and just a little crisp on the bottom.
Review: A San Rafael restaurant where the service as comforting as the food
Generosity is a lovely virtue, especially when it’s a generosity of spirit and kindness. This kind of kindness is what you’re met with when you enter Everest Curry and Momo House on Fourth Street in San Rafael. There were a few tables filled as we arrived and were met by Purba, who showed us to our seat in a half booth on the left toward the kitchen. Half booths line that side of the room, with full booths on the opposite wall and tables down the center.
Restaurant review: Corte Madera’s Mijo off to a promising start
I was excited to see that Corte Madera’s Mijo offers a happy hour from 4 to 5:30 p.m. daily. Nice! Recently, I arrived at 5 p.m. on a weeknight and was shown to a table under a mural depicting a lively tapas bar scene. While I waited for my friend Laura to arrive, I asked to see the happy hour menu and was told that it was only available at the bar, so I proceeded to the bar and perched on one of the lovely, back-supporting caramel leather stools. The menu arrived and so did Laura.
Restaurant review: Irish pub a tasty addition to San Rafael
The Burren in County Clare, Ireland, is described as one of nature’s most extraordinary phenomena. Sculptured from limestone, its shelves of rock, cleaved by crevices and caves, harbor an amazing array of flowers. When you enter the Burren House, an Irish pub on Fourth Street in San Rafael, you’ll be treading on that same limestone brought from Ireland.
Restaurant review: New menu, same great taste at Playa
Many of you may have already been to Playa in Mill Valley and love it. But, I want to introduce you to chef Michael Siegel, who splits his time between Playa and Corner Bar, and is responsible for the new and expanded Playa menu that was introduced last November. If you read my review of Corner Bar, you know how impressed I was with the food there. I wanted to see if Siegel was as adept at Mexican cuisine as he is with Mediterranean food.
Restaurant review: Don’t skip dessert at Novato’s Kitchen
Marin caterer Deb Lencioni Keith opened Kitchen on April 3, 2023, after catering both small and large events for 30 years. (She still continues to cater events.) This takes a lot of energy and passion. I’d heard from several readers that Kitchen was a jewel that I should check out. So, a couple of my dining companions and I set out to taste for ourselves. My friends had arrived and were seated at one of just a few tables.
Restaurant review: Novato’s Golden Gate Bistro hits all the right notes
As we arrived and parked across from Golden Gate Bistro, a man in the car next to us was pulling out a musical instrument from his car’s trunk. I asked if he would be playing at the restaurant. “Sure will be,” he said. “What time and what kind of music?” I asked. “A bit of rock, starting at 6:30 p.m.,” he said. Great! We went through the front door and into the main dining room: a large open room with a bar down the right side and an open kitchen straight ahead.
Restaurant review: A Fairfax brewpub where the food is as good as the beer
Share It was a chilly but sunny Saturday afternoon in Fairfax and the town was bustling. The parking lot across from the Fairfax Plaza was full. On my third pass-through, I was able to score a parking spot. I walked across the street to meet some friends for lunch at Fairfax Brewing Co. Several people were sitting at tables under heaters in the parklet in front of the brewery. Walking into the brewpub, I scoured the place but didn’t see my friends.
Restaurant review: A Fairfax brewpub where the food is as good as the beer
It was a chilly but sunny Saturday afternoon in Fairfax and the town was bustling. The parking lot across from the Fairfax Plaza was full. On my third pass-through, I was able to score a parking spot. I walked across the street to meet some friends for lunch at Fairfax Brewing Co. Several people were sitting at tables under heaters in the parklet in front of the brewery. Walking into the brewpub, I scoured the place but didn’t see my friends.
Restaurant review: Tavola Rustica a smash hit in Larkspur
Since seafood restaurant Yankee Pier closed in 2014 after 14 years, 286 Magnolia Ave. in Larkspur has been home to several Italian restaurants. Zoti Ali Turap opened the third one there, The Rustic, just a month after Locanda Marin, which I reviewed in 2023, closed last July. Many of us miss Locanda Marin’s spectacular pinsas.
Restaurant review: La Maison de la Reine still delivers great food in new location
I recently went to Grant Avenue in Novato for lunch at La Maison de la Reine. The charming, tree-lined street was bustling with shops, cafes and restaurants. Parking along Grant Avenue was full, but I found a public parking lot just behind the restaurant. I entered the door and found my friends waiting for me in the lobby. The restaurant is long and narrow and lined with dark brown booths of varying sizes. Framed pictures of Vietnamese scenes hang above the booths on the soft beige walls.
Restaurant review: Pretty dishes define San Anselmo’s Kuro Nami Japanese Kitchen
Last year, Kuro Nami opened in the former space that housed Sushi 69 for 17 years. When the owner of that restaurant, chef Hiroyuki Makino, retired, it was bought by Jackie Suthon, the owner of Baan Thai Cuisine, their next-door neighbor. Chef Miyuki Acevedo, who was trained by Makino at Sushi 69, became the chef at Kuro Nami Japanese Kitchen. Everything crocheted together quite nicely. We parked on San Anselmo Avenue and walked down the path to Kuro Nami.
Restaurant review: Corner Bar a welcome addition to Mill Valley
It was 4:20 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon and only a few seats were left at Mill Valley’s Corner Bar. We had tried to get in a couple of times a few weeks before, but were daunted when we saw how far down our names were on the waitlist. Located on the corner of Miller and Throckmorton avenues, its name is apt, but also conjures the vibe of a local hangout.
Restaurant review: New Delhi Indian Cuisine offers a delightful dining experience
We entered the lobby of San Rafael’s New Delhi Indian Cuisine and, after getting the attention of the man at the desk, asked if we could order from the menu rather than go through the buffet that’s available for lunch. We were told that we could and were shown into the side room at a booth by the sunny window. The lunch buffet was set up in the main dining room and there were a few guests seated at tables there. The light through the retractable roof shed a gentle glow over the larger room.
Restaurant review: Panchitos remains a standout in Terra Linda
In 1999, Leo Limeta was working at Panchitos in Terra Linda when Pancho and Yolanda Aceves, the couple who had owned it since the 1970s, decided to retire. They asked Limeta if he’d like to buy it. Limeta called his friend, Jeffrey Jauch, a man he’d worked with at other restaurants to see if he’d be interested in a new adventure. That was 25 years ago and the adventure continues.
Restaurant review: After 27 years, Fradelizio’s still wows
It was a lively Saturday evening in Fairfax. Cars were circling, looking for parking places. Lots of people were leisurely walking up and down the streets, possibly on their way to dinner. If dinner was what they were seeking, Fairfax offers many possibilities for eating, drinking and listening to music. I had my destination in sight, so I pulled into the public parking area just across from Fradelizio’s, a restaurant offering northern Italian cuisine on the corner of Broadway and Bolinas Road.
Restaurant review: Mill Valley’s Oni Kuma off to a good start
The two most memorable dishes I had at Mill Valley’s Oni Kuma were the Santa Barbara Uni Nigiri and Ume and Shiso Hand Roll. But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, I want to tell you how to find Oni Kuma. When Google Maps takes you into a shopping center, you need to do a bit of hunting on your own. I found the restaurant just to the left of Whole Foods Market on East Blithedale Avenue.
Dining review: San Rafael’s first rooftop bar worth the visit
When I arrived, my friends were seated in the lobby of the AC Hotel by Marriott in downtown San Rafael. Modern, uncluttered lines create a comfortable environment designed for travelers. We were drawn to the hotel not for lodging but for entertainment.
Restaurant review: At TuTu Lounge, the dishes are as pretty as they are tasty
As we walked into TuTu Lounge, we were greeted by the bold colors of Marin artist Jeffrey Beauchamp’s large oil paintings. They immediately made us sense there were more good things to come. TuTu Lounge is a restaurant located in the Art Works Downtown building on Fourth Street in San Rafael. Its artfully presented plates of food are appropriate to its location. A long bar lines the left side as you enter. Back-supporting bar stools with padded seats and wooden tables and chairs provide seating.
Restaurant review: Craving a classic steakhouse experience? Head to Novato’s Blacksteer
The name tells the story. The restaurant was, as my friend and fellow diner described, “a steakhouse hangout with friendly customers and good drinks.” They weren’t wrong about Novato’s Blacksteer Steakhouse & Saloon, which opened earlier this year, taking over the space previously occupied by Rickey’s Restaurant. It was a scorcher the night we ate there, and we were looking forward to having dinner in a cool place.
Restaurant review: La Esperanza Pupuseria y Comedor a gem in San Rafael
We passed under the red awning to enter La Esperanza Pupuseria y Comedor in San Rafael. There were a couple of tables outside but the brick and mustard-colored walls inside were more inviting. Green-, yellow- and red-padded chair seats and bare wooden tables line the walls on either side of the room with more seating in the center. It’s a good-sized room, bright and pristinely clean.
Restaurant review: Good food, great views at Sausalito’s Suzette
There’s a new arrival on the Sausalito waterfront, Suzette. The French bistro — the latest restaurant by Marin couple Olivier and Susannah Souvestre — offers beloved French dishes and spectacular views of the bay and beyond. The inside space is compact with some seating at the bar and a few tables. Warning: The booths on the left when you enter are not that comfortable.
Restaurant review: Comforting dishes shine at Giaco’s Valley Roadhouse
Is it just me or does the word “roadhouse” conjure up a tavern down a dark road with cars parked helter-skelter and blues guitars moaning from within? No? Well, good, since Giaco’s Valley Roadhouse is not on a dark road unless you overshoot it like we did and end up wending along Sir Francis Drake through tree-sheltered Samuel P. Taylor State Park. But you might hear music when you arrive at the brown-shingled restaurant with its five little cottages next door and cars parked properly.
Restaurant review: 60 years later, La Ginestra remains as charming as ever
On Mother’s Day in 1964, La Ginestra restaurant opened its doors. It’s been owned and operated by the same family in the same location on Throckmorton Avenue in downtown Mill Valley for 60 years. Salvatore and Maria Aversa christened their new restaurant La Ginestra, Italian for “scotch broom,” which blooms robustly over the hills of Marin and reminded them of the home they had left in Italy with the same yellow-coated hills.
Restaurant review: Servino still serving up exquisite Italian cuisine
Servino has returned to its original home on Ark Row in Tiburon after spending more than 20 years just around the corner on the bay. Kathryn and Angelo Servino opened the original spot in 1977. Their sons, Natale and Vittorio, now operate the new location. Servino occupies the space of two adjoining little buildings. One is the Enoteca Bar and the other is the Trattoria. They are more intimate than Servino’s former location and so charming.
Restaurant review: Lots to love at Larkspur’s Loveski
Love has arrived in Marin. Well, Loveski, that is. A twist on the classic Jewish deli, Loveski opened in Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart in December and is playfully spreading its love of delicious food. Before arriving in Marin, Loveski’s first location was at the Oxbow Public Market in Napa and is still lauded by the press and public.
Restaurant review: Station House Cafe, a great place for brunch in West Marin
I didn’t need much of an excuse to head to West Marin. Spring had just sprung into action with orange poppies greeting me everywhere and fruit trees blossoming. As we headed over Mt. Tamalpais on Panoramic Highway, we crested at Pantoll Campground and wound our way down Highway 1. We saw a few wild irises along the side of the road making their annual appearance.
Restaurant review: Italian favorites shine at Red Rooster Brick Oven
It’s been said you can’t go wrong opening an Italian restaurant. Americans love Italian food as long as it’s pasta and pizzas with double marks for having tiramisu on the menu. Red Rooster Brick Oven in San Rafael has all three covered. Red Rooster Brick Oven is on B Street at the corner of Third. Large windows face out to their covered parklet and beyond to Third Street. The long room is divided between guest seating and the brick oven and bar.
Restaurant review: Comforting flavors, warm hospitality at Himalayan Kitchen
The Sherpas have opened several restaurants in and around Sonoma, and in 2023, they opened Himalayan Kitchen in San Rafael. Originally from Nepal, they have brought their warm hospitality and food expertise to our area much to our benefit. Their newest restaurant is tucked into the far corner of the Montecito shopping center. You know how some people just immediately engage with you? That’s what we felt with the server, Wangchhe Sherpa, who approached our table.
Restaurant review: Chinese dishes shine at Emma’s Restaurant
There are a few Ping’s around and not just on your phone. One is at Northgate One and another is in south San Rafael, where the signage proclaims it as “Ping’s Mandarin” but it isn’t. It’s now Emma’s Restaurant. Confused? I was. Calling the restaurant, I was told there is a plan in the works to change the sign. Good idea. By the way, different people own Emma’s and the Northgate Ping’s but the original owner who retired in the early 2000s left his influence on some of the food.
Restaurant review: San Rafael cafe highlights the fresh flavors of Korean cuisine
Perched on the north corner of the Bay Park Center, close to the Marin end of the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge, SAN Korean Cafe is small, bright and lively. Square faux white marble tables and comfortable white tube chairs create a fresh, clean space that welcomes guests in. Owner and Marin resident Monica Chang, one of the two people working on our visit, was busy at the counter taking a lunch order from a party of three but still warmly greeted us.
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