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Articles by Antonio Galloni
Past, Present and Future (Oct 2026)
First produced in 1974, Joseph Phelpsâ Insignia was a groundbreaking wine in Napa Valley. It was Napa Valleyâs first proprietary red Bordeaux blend, a wine that opened the door for so many others that followed. Two recent vertical tastings provided an incredible opportunity to delve into Insigniaâs rich history and examine the trends that have shaped these wines over the last six decades.
Past, Present and Future (Oct 2026)
First produced in 1974, Joseph Phelpsâ Insignia was a groundbreaking wine in Napa Valley. It was Napa Valleyâs first proprietary red Bordeaux blend, a wine that opened the door for so many others that followed. Two recent vertical tastings provided an incredible opportunity to delve into Insigniaâs rich history and examine the trends that have shaped these wines over the last six decades.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre (Sep 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre BY ANTONIO GALLONI | SEPTEMBER 28, 2026 The 2016 Meursault Clos de la Barre from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is everything white Burgundy should be at this stage of its life. Aromatic, light on its feet and gently softened by the passage of time, the 2016 remains gracious and wonderfully vibrant.
A Whiter Shade of Chianti Classico (Sep 2026)
Monteraponi is one of the recent success stories of Chianti Classico. Most of the attention naturally focuses on the reds, but the Trebbiano is just as compelling. This recent retrospective back to 2011 provided a fascinating opportunity to check in on older vintages and track the evolution of one of the worldâs most distinctive whites.
Vinous Table: Langosteria, Paris, France (Sep 2026)
Cheval Blanc Paris 8 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris, France Tel.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Petrus (Sep 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Petrus BY ANTONIO GALLONI | SEPTEMBER 14, 2026 The 2014 Petrus is a wine I tasted en primeur but that I then missed during my in-bottle tastings for some reason. I was delighted to have this opportunity to rectify that. The 2014 growing season was uneven. Protracted periods of rain, cloudy skies and cool weather during the summer were less than optimal. Sunshine and warm, dry weather finally arrived at the end of the summer, perhaps a bit too late for some spots.
Cellar Favorite: Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2004 & 2001 Chablis La Forest 1er Cru (Sep 2026)
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2004 & 2001 Chablis La Forest 1er Cru BY ANTONIO GALLONI | SEPTEMBER 7, 2026 Vincent Dauvissat would often conclude our tastings at the domaine with an older wine or two served blind, so I was not at all surprised to see how well these two vintages of the 1er Cru La Forest has aged. Both bottles, from my cellar, were utterly sublime and also a reminder of why we buy and cellar wine — for moments like this. Dauvissat’s 2004 Chablis La Forest 1er Cru is peaking today.
La Maison d’Estournel, Bordeaux, France (Aug 2026)
Where do you stay in Bordeaux? Itâs one of the questions I am asked most often. La Maison dâEstournel has become one of my favorite stops over the last few years. This small, cozy country manor transformed into a hotel offers outstanding hospitality, exceptional food and wine, proximity to châteaux and the modern amenities that international travelers demand.
Chianti Classico: Looking Up (Aug 2026)
Chianti Classico: Looking Up BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 27, 2026 After three very tough vintages, things are looking up in Chianti Classico. The young 2025s hold significant promise, while 2024 is revealing itself to be surprisingly good in spots, despite some inconsistency. That’s a big improvement over 2023 and 2022, when so many producers were impacted by severe weather events that dramatically lowered production and negatively impacted quality.
The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges, Pound Ridge, New York (Aug 2026)
The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges is a jewel of a restaurant in one of the prettiest and most quaint towns in New Yorkâs Westchester County. The Inn has become a family favorite. Food, wine and service are all superb, and yet the casual setting makes the Inn extremely versatile for anything from a family gathering to a date night.
2005-2022 (Aug 2026)
Mention Clos La Néore and oenophilesâ ears immediately perk up. One of the worldâs rarest and most distinctive whites, Clos La Néore represents the pinnacle of artisan farming and winemaking. This vertical spanning thirteen vintages back to 2005 showed Clos La Néore in many facets, from wines driven by steely minerality to those marked by textural richness and weight. With one or two exceptions, the wines were superb.
Vinous Table: La Fontaine De Mars, Paris, France (Aug 2026)
La Fontaine De Mars 129 Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris, France Tel.
The Original Napa Valley Icon: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. (Aug 2026)
The Original Napa Valley Icon: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 13, 2026 Fifty years ago, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. bested some of France’s best-known wines at an unassuming blind tasting. That tasting, chronicled as the Judgment of Paris, became a cultural phenomenon that changed the wine world.
Remembering David Hirsch (Aug 2026)
Remembering David Hirsch BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 5, 2026 The wine world lost a trailblazing pioneer when David Hirsch passed away on July 28, 2026. He was 81 years old. I met David Hirsch several times, both in California and later in New York, after a devastating accident in 2014 that left him paralyzed. That event would have broken almost anyone’s spirit, but Hirsch bounced back, eventually leading an extremely active and busy life. Our conversations were always wide-ranging.
Scenes from the Coast (Jul 2026)
The Tuscan Maremma is home to some of Italyâs most iconic estates and wines, showing what is possible in a region that was once marshland. These labels have garnered considerable critical acclaim over the years and become favorites with consumers around the world. And yet within the context of fine wine, Maremma is a very young region. Only a small handful of estates are in their third generation, and virtually all others are much younger.
Origines, Paris, France (Jul 2026)
Vinous readers planning to spend time in Paris will want to book a table at Origines. Located in the 8th Arrondissement, Origines is a showcase for Chef Julien Boscusâs ingredient-driven, seasonal cuisine. Guests can choose from several tasting menus plus à la carte dining. The menu is small, which I always view as a sign of focus, but that also means guests with dietary restrictions are best served by planning ahead.
Dom Pérignon Rosé Through the Decades at Vinous Icons (Jul 2026)
âWhat is the greatest tasting you have ever gone to?â Itâs one of the questions I am asked most often. Of course, it is an impossible question to answer. A few events come to mind. One is an extraordinary tasting of Dom Pérignon Rosé I attended in 2015. That evening was the inspiration for a very special Dom Pérignon Rosé lunch we hosted recently at Vinous Icons.
Remembering Franco Bernabei (Jul 2026)
Remembering Franco Bernabei BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JULY 6, 2026 The wine world lost a true giant when Franco Bernabei passed away at 73 years of age on July 2. Bernabei was one of the handful of consultants in the late 1970s and early 1980s who brought contemporary best practices in winemaking to Tuscany and helped catapult Italian wines onto the global stage. He was an avid proponent of the virtues of Sangiovese at a time when few believed in its potential.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve (Jul 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JULY 6, 2026 At ten years of age, the 2016 Flaccianello della Pieve is every bit as captivating as it has always been. A rich, seamless wine, Flaccianello captures all the natural intensity that is so typical of the Panzano’s Conca d’Oro, one of the most unique districts in Chianti Classico. Dark-hued Sangiovese fruit, lavender, mocha, baking spice and tobacco race across the palate with stunning persistence.
Cellar Favorite: 1982 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo (Jun 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 1982 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 29, 2026 What a treat it is to taste Giuseppe Rinaldi’s 1982 Barolo from a perfect bottle. It’s a wine that opens a door into another era in Barolo, akin to watching a classic film in black and white or listening to a musical recording before the advent of highly technical studios, much less purely digital music.
Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons (Jun 2026)
Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 18, 2026 Champagne and a private lunch on a Friday afternoon at Le Bernardin. What could be better? Not much in my book. I am not alone, as the Friday Champagne lunch has quickly become one of the most popular events at Vinous Icons: New York. A vertical of Salon’s Cuvée S back to 1996 kicked off the second edition of Icons.
Cellar Favorite: 1976 Hanzell Vineyards Pinot Noir (Jun 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 1976 Hanzell Vineyards Pinot Noir BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 15, 2026 The 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris has resulted in many retrospective tastings and a good deal of reflection about the future of Napa Valley and wine more broadly, as the industry sits at a clear inflection point. Most of those tastings have naturally been focused on the wines that were featured in the Paris tasting. But those wines just scratch the surface of California’s oenological riches.
Madeira, Port & Spirits Round Up (Jun 2026)
Madeira, Port & Spirits Round Up BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 10, 2026 Few things can put the perfect touch on a meal like a great glass of Madeira, Port or Spirits. In this report I look at some of the most captivating bottles that have come across my desk in recent months. The worlds of fortified wines and distilled spirits offer so much to explore. Readers can expect to see increased coverage and focus on these categories in upcoming months.
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Figeac (Jun 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Figeac BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 1, 2026 The 1949 Figeac is one of those wines I wish all Vinous readers had a chance to taste at least once in their lives. Deeply colored in the glass, the 1949 possesses off-the-charts textural richness and unreal viscosity that belie its age by at least several decades. Dark-toned fruit, grilled herbs, gravel, incense, pipe tobacco and spice cake envelop the palate with effortless grace.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 VHR, Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (May 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 2016 VHR, Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 25, 2026 The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon was a surprise during my most recent visit to Vine Hill Ranch. Now approaching its tenth birthday, the 2016 is every bit as stunning as it always has been. The aromatics are just starting to show a touch of development, but the 2016 remains very young and full of life.
Vinous Table: L'Ecailler du Bistrot, Paris, France (May 2026)
L'Ecailler du Bistrot 22 Rue Paul Bert 75011 Paris, France +33 1 43 72 76 77 BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 22, 2026 The Food: Plateau Homard Bleu Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre Thinly sliced apples; vanilla ice cream, salted butter caramel Citrus sorbet The Wine: 2014 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Pur Sang 94 One of my fondest childhood memories is sitting in a Parisian café with my parents, indulging in what then seemed like a huge plateau de fruits de mer.
1955 Mascarello Natale fu Maurizio Barolo (May 2026)
The 1955 Barolo from Mascarello Natale fu Maurizio is a very rare wine and a real treat to taste.
Italy (May 2026)
I have tasted Sassicaia from magnum a few times over the years. But never ten vintages at once. This vertical of tasting Tenuta San Guidoâs Sassicaia held at the inaugural edition of Vinous Icons: Italy provided an incredible opportunity to do just that. The selection of vintages spanned many of the classics, with some lesser-known vintages sprinkled into the mix. And of course, in Vinous style, we finished with the 1985, the wine that put Sassicaia and Bolgheri on the map.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 & 2008 de Millery (May 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 2016 & 2008 de Millery BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 11, 2026 Thierry Manoncourt, the late owner of Figeac, purchased Château de Millery in 1942 while he was in the French Army. The tiny vineyard in Saint-Émilion's Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes sector spans less than one hectare and is planted to 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. For decades, Millery remained a small family property, its wine destined mostly for home consumption, rather than a true commercial venture.
Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview (May 2026)
Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 1, 2026 Champagne is one of the brighter spots in a world fraught with uncertainty. I continue to be impressed with the dynamism and overall energy that is palpable here, even in the current environment. Young, quality-minded growers keep popping up at a pace that is hard to keep up with. Not to be outdone, the larger players continue to invest and innovate, knowing they can’t afford to stand still.
2025 Bordeaux En Primeur: Le Freak (Apr 2026)
2025 Bordeaux En Primeur: Le Freak BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 28, 2026 Left Bank: Saint-Estèphe | Pauillac | Saint-Julien | Margaux | Moulis and Listrac | Pessac-Léognan and Graves | Left Bank Satellites | Sauternes Right Bank: Pomerol | Saint-Émilion | Right Bank Satellites After a problematic vintage in 2024, Bordeaux bounces back with the 2025s. It’s too soon to know where 2025 will land relative to most highly regarded recent vintages, but the finest 2025s are nothing short of thrilling.
Vinous Table: Villa Crespi, Lago d'Orta, Italy (Apr 2026)
Villa Crespi Via Giuseppe Fava, 18 28016 Orta San Giulio (NO) Italy Phone: +39 0322 91192 BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 17, 2026 The Food: Ricciola in Carpione (Marinated Amberjack) Scampi Nudi; Infusione Mediterranea alla Pizzaiola, Emulsione di Polpo (Raw Scampi, Mediterranean Infusion Pizzaiola-style, Octopus Emulsion) La Melanzana, la Mandorla ed il Pomodoro (Eggplant, Almond and Tomato) Linguina di Gragnano; Calamaretti, Salsa di Pane di Segale (Linguine from Gragnano; Baby Squid, Rye Bread...
2008 & 1982 Bollinger Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises (Apr 2026)
Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Françaises, 100% Pinot Noir, is one of Champagne's rare birds. Production is just a few barrels, increasingly less, the result of decreasing yields tied to the effects of accumulated heat stress. I tasted these two wines during my most recent visit to Bollinger in March 2026.
2026 Tuscany Preview (Apr 2026)
Spring is a time of renewal. Vines are awaking from their winter dormancy while new releases start appearing in the market at a rapid pace. This report looks at some of the yearâs most anticipated releases, along with some newer projects, with an emphasis on the Tuscan Coast. Full coverage will follow later in the year.
Mas Jullien: A Languedoc Tale (Apr 2026)
Mas Jullien: A Languedoc Tale BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 1, 2026 Olivier Jullien is one of the trailblazers in the Languedoc. Jullien founded his domaine in 1985 with just three hectares of vineyards. At the time, Languedoc was known mostly for turning out volumes of largely undistinguished wines. But Jullien had a different vision, a vision of an estate focused on sustainable farming, low yields and minimalist winemaking.
The Essence of Carema (Mar 2026)
Nebbiolo is such a beguiling, complex, mysteriously beautiful grape. In Caremaâs best sites, the indigenous biotype of Nebbiolo, known as Picotendro, yields wines like no otherâaromatic, structured reds that capture the essence of place and vintage. The Ferrando family has turned out compelling wines here since the 1960s, wines that define what Carema is all about.
Michel Rolland Remembered (Mar 2026)
Michel Rolland Remembered BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 25, 2026 “Thank you for the excellent rating of Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol. I knew I could trust a palate as keen and discerning as yours,” Michel Rolland wrote to me some years ago after a review he was less than pleased with. Even after all this time, I can still hear those words delivered with Rolland’s sharp wit and sarcasm.
Signed, Sealed, Delivered (Mar 2026)
Bordeauxâs bottled 2023s enter the world during an especially volatile time. I say âenterâ because over the last decade or so, the market for Bordeaux wines has changed radically. En primeur is relevant only for a few dozen wines that might appreciate significantly from the time they are first offered from barrel. That applies to fewer and fewer wines with each passing vintage.
Signed, Sealed, Delivered (I’m Yours) (Mar 2026)
Bordeauxâs bottled 2023s enter the world during an especially volatile time. I say âenterâ because over the last decade or so, the market for Bordeaux wines has changed radically. En primeur is relevant only for a few dozen wines that might appreciate significantly from the time they are first offered from barrel. That applies to fewer and fewer wines with each passing vintage.
2023 Domaine de la Romanée Conti: Through the Dark (Mar 2026)
2023 Domaine de la Romanée Conti: Through the Dark BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 12, 2026 The annual tasting of Domaine de la Romanée Conti’s new releases provided a terrific opportunity to taste the domaine’s complete range and check in on a few older wines as well. Co-Managers Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal presented the vintage and wines, continuing a tradition that goes back several decades.
Rocca di Montegrossi: Act Two (Feb 2026)
Rocca di Montegrossi: Act Two BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 26, 2026 This recent vertical was a terrific opportunity to revisit a number of older wines, essentially picking up where my 2018 article, Rocca di Montegrossi: Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013, left off a few years ago. From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful yet elegant wines that capture the truest essence of this very special part of Chianti Classico.
Remembering Daniel Cathiard (Feb 2026)
Remembering Daniel Cathiard BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 26, 2026 I was deeply saddened to learn of Daniel Cathiard’s recent passing. With his wife and life partner Florence, Cathiard transformed Smith Haut Lafitte from a sleepy, run-down estate into one of Bordeaux’s most respected châteaux. Daniel Cathiard and Florence Bernard met as teenagers, when they were both members of the French national ski team. A few years later the young couple married.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2026 New Releases (Feb 2026)
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2026 New Releases BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 23, 2026 There’s a lot to like in the 2026 releases from Château Latour. The 2021 Pauillac has developed beautifully since I last tasted it, making me very curious about the other wines from this very challenging growing season. Forts de Latour is very fine in 2020, while Grand Vin is pure sensuality in 2019. I tasted the wines with Estate Director Hélène Génin during a visit to the château in December 2025.
Moon Mountain Bounces Back with the Exceptional 2023s (Feb 2026)
Moon Mountain Bounces Back with the Exceptional 2023s BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 10, 2026 The 2023s from Sonoma’s Moon Mountain District are exceptional. A long, cool growing season with no shock events gave producers ideal conditions to turn out intensely aromatic, layered, structured reds. In 2023, everything was shifted late throughout the entire growing season. Cool weather allowed for extended hangtime and led to some of the latest harvests ever seen here.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 Hanzell Vineyards Pinot Noir & Chardonnay (Feb 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 1970 Hanzell Vineyards Pinot Noir & Chardonnay BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 9, 2026 The 1970 Pinot Noir is quite simply one of the greatest American wines I have ever tasted. Dark, layered and so expressive, the 1970 opens beautifully with time in the glass. Deeply pitched spice, macerated cherry, leather, tobacco and game are some of the many nuances that gradually reveal themselves over time. At nearly 56 years of age, the 1970 is a time capsule into the early days at Hanzell.
The Marcassin Mystique (Jan 2026)
The Marcassin Mystique BY ANTONIO GALLONI | January 22, 2026 There are few wineries in the United States, or the world for that matter, with the level of mystique that surrounds Marcassin. “Have you heard anything about Marcassin?” I am asked regularly. “When is the next release?” inevitably follows. A recent visit and tasting provided some answers during a wide-ranging conversation that ran the gamut from wine to vineyards to jazz.
Cellar Favorite: 1997 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru (Jan 2026)
Cellar Favorite: 1997 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 5, 2026 There aren’t too many things I enjoy more than a mature bottle of Raveneau Chablis. When I saw the 1997 Montée de Tonnerre on the list at the Chablis Wine Not wine bar in the center of town, I knew I had to have it. Golden in hue but age-appropriate, the 1997 is a total delight.
Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate: 1983-2014 (Dec 2025)
Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate: 1983-2014 BY ANTONIO GALLONI | DECEMBER 23, 2025 Philip Togni’s long, distinguished career stretches across eight decades, during which he has turned out some of the most brilliant wines in Napa Valley. This unforgettable vertical tasting and dinner at Union Square Café surveyed a vast number of vintages all the way back to 1983, Togni’s debut from his estate vineyard on Spring Mountain.
La Pagode de Cos & Restaurant Le Gabriel, Paris, France (Dec 2025)
La Pagode de Cos & Restaurant Le Gabriel La Réserve 42 Av. Gabriel 75008 Paris, France Tel. +33 1 58 36 60 66 BY ANTONIO GALLONIO | DECEMBER 19, 2025 Tucked away in the 8th Arrondissement, not too far away from some of the most famous shopping areas in Paris, Michel Reybier’s La Réserve offers an oasis of calm. If it were not for the imposing military presence surrounding the US Embassy, La Réserve is the sort of place one might walk past without really noticing.
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