Reader. Eater. Traveler. Got that JAX Mojo. Food Columnist @FolioWeekly. Social Media Manager @JaxLibrary. Bee Wrangler at Bee Friends Farm.
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Articles by Brentley Stead
Minimalism at the Beach
Clean lines. Polished tiles. Sparkling glasses. The interior of Restaurant Doro might be intimidating, if it weren’t for its chef and owner, Christopher Polidoro. He brings a comforting sense of warmth and relaxation to the space. His restaurant is a fine-dining destination, but Polidoro says, “Cooking is what I like to do; it’s not pretentious.” Nor is the spirit of the place. The focus here is squarely on the ingredients of the dishes presented to the guests.
The Jazz Age
From the world of banking to the heart of a soul food institution, Celestia Mobley’s career trajectory has been nothing short of impressive. Her latest Jacksonville dining concept, Jazzy’s Restaurant & Lounge, is giving King Street a long-overdue culinary (and musical) boost. Born and raised in Jacksonville, Mobley has seen Northeast Florida’s gastronomic tide ebb and flow.
The Good Stuff - Folio Weekly
Berry Good Farms is a nontraditional farm with a nontraditional mission. Located at the North Florida School of Special Education (NFSSE) in Arlington, the farm is a micro-enterprise, teaching farm, culinary school and farmers market all wrapped into one private nonprofit. It was launched by parents with a shared vision: to provide a fuller life experience for children with intellectual differences.
A Feast for the Senses
There are food people and then there are food people. Erin Thursby, executive director of GastroJax, falls under the latter category. As a writer and editor, Thursby has covered the local food scene since 2005. In 2014, she leveraged that experience and helped launch GastroJax, a nonprofit whose mission is to showcase and preserve the talent she was writing about. “I was in a unique position to see how quickly our food scene was changing here in town,” Thursby told Folio Weekly.
Sweet In-Cline-ation
There’s a new chocolatier in town and she’s all about sustainable chocolate! Erika Cline’s new Bleu Chocolat Café has opened just in time for Valentine’s Day. This shop should be your first stop when gathering all the goodies to bribe … uh, honor your loved ones. One cool feature is the build your own box of bonbons; choose from several amazing flavors and fill that thing up. And the usual—or shall I say unusual—items are a-plenty, too.
Kooks Only - Folio Weekly
The Kookaburra (or, as locals say, The Kook) is a St. Augustine coffee and pastry shop that specializes in traditional Australian desserts as well as savory meat and veg pies. A first location, on Cathedral Place, opened in 2012; now the Kooks are preparing a fifth.
Not Bad? It’s All Good
Brothers Guorong and Han Fan and their cousin, Chef Sing, opened TimWah Chinese Dim Sum Restaurant in 2017. It’s right off Baymeadows Road, on Point Meadows, in a nifty shopping plaza—good location. TimWah is the only place in town that has an exclusively dim sum menu. Known as Fan to his friends, Guorong is the face of the restaurant. His heritage is 100 percent Cantonese, but when he speaks, it’s pure Brooklyn, specifically Bensonhurst.
A-dough-able Recipes
Doughnut or donut? To find out, we set up an appointment with Amanda Gibson, Recipe Tester for Good Dough, an artisanal doughnut shop. The original location in San Marco has just set up a long-term pop-up in the Town Center. The doughnut craze has swept through the nation, and we’ve survived—with only a little artery clogging residue to show for it. Gibson is an involved, behind-the-scene force in Northeast Florida’s food scene. She started out in the corporate food industry, aka chain restaurants.
To Your Health - Folio Weekly
The party atmosphere of New Year’s Eve is over and the bubbles are fading. Now it’s all about resolutions. Many Jacksonvillians—heck, many Americans—are focusing on eating right and hitting the gym after the gluttony of the holiday season. For my part, my ongoing resolution is to shop as local and as healthfully as possible. We’re lucky that there are spots in this area that make it easy.
Past Repasts - Folio Weekly
It’s been a big year for food in Jax. We’ve had some tried-and-true favorites depart and we’ve made friends with the new kids on the block. The food scene is ever-changing here, and that means exciting options throughout the region nearly every day. I’ve eaten a lot of food this year (personally and professionally) and some dishes are clear favorites I still crave.
Wrap It Up - Folio Weekly
'Tis the season for gift-giving! (And, let’s be honest, gift-getting, too!) I’m not a huge fan of “stuff,” but spoiler alert: I do love a good meal and a fun adventure. Check out some of these local gift suggestions that are certain to delight even the pickiest of eaters this holiday season. (And some of these items make great hostess gifts, too!) ANY ITEM IN DUVAL MERCANTILE The latest pop-up shop is the brainchild of the owners of vintage clothing emporium Wolf and Cub.
Kenny the Great
Science says an object in motion stays in motion, and Chef Kenny Gilbert never stops moving. Days after learning he was voted Best Chef in our Best of Jax 2018 readers’ poll, Gilbert boarded a plane for California. It was Thanksgiving. He had been invited to cook for Oprah Winfrey. Gilbert began his culinary career as a 15-year-old at his local McDonald’s. Since then, he has overcome every obstacle in front of him, working in countless five-star establishments and reaching celeb chef status.
No Sad Tomato - Folio Weekly
Happy Tomato, a happy spot in Fernandina Beach, greets you with some smokin’ smoke and a down-to-earth crew. I don’t know why there are so many just plain cute joints on Amelia Island. For some reason, they all ooze charm and quaint vibes, and there’s usually a calming plant element, too. Happy Tomato’s outdoor back porch is on a wooden deck, with ample seating that extends to a paved pathway. It’s tucked into a building that is home to a few other businesses, but you’ll find it with no problem.
THE CRAFT OF COCKTAILS
Self-professed cocktail nerd Miles Howard has landed back in Jax and taken up residence as the new bar manager at The Grape and Grain Exchange. Howard has a varied background that includes a stint at the Broken Shaker in Miami Beach (which was named one of the best cocktail bars in America and among the top 50 bars in the world). The beverage guru has some interesting ideas about cocktails and what makes a menu.
Who's Got the Flava?
On the busy corner of Hendricks Avenue and Prudential Drive, there’s a spot serving Thai salads, noodles, soups and more. From the traditional to more interesting plates, Flavors of Thai has items not often found in Northeast Florida. For diners who avoid spicy items, a dish in a Thai restaurant can seem like a ticking time bomb. But if it is spice you crave, Thai allows you to inch up the heat scale or even go full ghost.
Love the Lahmacun
It always seems like I find the best food at out-of-the-way places, like Ephesus Mediterranean Grill & Pizza. It’s in an odd spot, near Regency Target and AMC Theater, but it’s well worth the detour. Two words: Turkish pizza. Ephesus specializes in classic and innovative Turkish and Mediterranean fare. The menu has the usuals, like moussaka, as well as an unexpected–but not unwelcome–selection of pizzas. I mean, they already have the equipment for their Turkish-style pizza.
Grin & Bear It - Folio Weekly
Am I the only one who loves the punny names of the sushi restaurants in this area? It’s a game to try to remember which is which, and where they are! Sushi Bear has seared both its name and location in my brain for its great service and traditional dishes. It has a large varied menu, everything from hibachi and apps to platters of sushi. There were some surprises, but we’ll get there, dear reader. The Sushi Bear servers are delightful. They bring out fun treats throughout the dining experience.
Hallowed Grounds
A cup of joe, free wifi, a solid sandwich and maybe even a piece of cake for dessert–these things can make a girl camp out all day. You may wish you had all this in your own home, but it’s nice to get out of the house every once in a while. The latest sweet spot is Southern Grounds & Co. Hugging a corner near the heart of San Marco, this neighborhood haunt has all the aforementioned perks and more.
Buffet's the Thing
Food is political. Food is a bridge-builder. Food is a common denominator. At Bold City Kabobs, food is all those things and more. This restaurant represents the kind of place that I cherish. It’s a modest, strip-mall spot that serves international dishes and has a mural of Jacksonville on one giant wall.
Su Veracruz Es Mi Veracruz
Mi Veracruz, a family-run Mexican place between Southside and San Marco, has the goods for your ’rita and taco fix. If you get a hankerin’ for a larger meal (with a few drinks), you’re covered! These folks have the cocktail sitch down pat. Peach or lime margaritas are BOGO–all the time. And they’re the real thing, too. My palate’s all a-tingle! Fear not, beer lovers, you’re still among amigos at Veracruz. Ever seen a Corona jug so massive it should have a handle?
What's in a Name?
People up in Québec aren’t known for being warm’n’fuzzy but they sure know how to please the palate. French Canadian fare may be the most creative yet down-home comfort food in the world. Don’t fret–Northeast Floridians can get their fill in Riverside, at The Stuffed Beaver. Expect the standard items, like piles of poutine, crêpes, beaver tails and more. Then check out the unexpected. The strange-sounding (even by my standards) Hot Chicken Sandwich Plate was unknown to me, so I got it.
Tastes Like Chicken
There’s a sparkly new, two-story building in Atlantic Beach that’s nothing like that chicken farm you could smell for miles around in the little town where you grew up. Coop 303 is a contemporary restaurant serving regional cuisine and innovative cocktails, craft drafts and bottles and a slew of wines. Head in for Sunday game day or a weeknight meal. It’s an ideal place to hang at the bar–upstairs or down–or grab a table with the fam. I love a good snack.
Butter Me Up - Folio Weekly
Southside, I am so proud of you. You’re doing the most when it comes to small spots that rock my world, so thank you. Artisan bakery Jax Bread Co., a newcomer to the sandwich and pastry scene, may be my new favorite–I hope they stick around. The selection rocks at this bakery-meets-deli-sandwich shop. Grab a coffee and a sweet treat, like carrot apple or Banna bread ($2.99), or get something to stick to your ribs and fortify you for the rest of the day. The shop is an in-house situation.
The Tide is High
Local Tex-Mex staple Hightide Burrito Co. is known for casual burritos and beers, but its other selections are worth trying, too. The San Marco space is light and bright with comfy seating that works for large groups, kids or couples. Hightide features a salsa bar with those cute, tiny cups that make it easy to try a bunch of different flavors without waste. From fresh pico de gallo to green salsa to hotter varieties, there’s something for every palate.
Silog as You're Here
Every once in a while, you find someone who’s incredibly about their heritage and the food from their childhood. I lucked out recently–a friend introduced me to the specialties of Filipino cuisine well-executed by ladies cooking real, traditional Filipino fare at Fil-Am Eatery & BBQ, just past the intersection of Beach Boulevard and San Pablo Road in the Intracoastal area.
What the Pho? - Folio Weekly
Buckle up, friends, and let’s go on a journey. Fear not the expansive title of Pho Dim Sum & Vietnamese; this friendly, local restaurant has the tastiest Asian goods around. There are both traditional and new selections on the regular menu–everything from Bún (a cool noodle salad with meat and veggies) to broken rice and lots of fun dishes in between. Sip on a housemade kumquat soda or boba tea while you nosh. This place does it all. The lotus root salad from the regular menu sounded fantastic.
A Noble Lunch - Folio Weekly
Plantology Juice Bar & Café on Atlantic Boulevard is a nice introduction to eating plant-based for those new to meatless. Their offerings are healthy and diverse and the killer smoothies are fresh and very filling. Plantology is run by some of the owners of the previously established Watts Juicery, so you can expect the same great plant-powered zing from the same local ownership. If you’re looking for something to chew, check out the chalkboard specials.
Orlando Chain Brings Big-Time Ramen to SJTC
Kinky strands of ramen clutched in chopsticks are all the rage on Instagram. With the arrival of Domu, the Orlando-based ramen mecca, Jax just got a lot more IG-worthy. Domu is a rare happy hour haven in St. Johns Town Center–with its fun and fabulous cocktails, its bar and snack situation are a guaranteed success. Whiskey-lovers will delight in the Smoked Old-Fashioned ($12); fans of tall glasses should check out the (imho, slightly too) sweet Lychee martini with lychee-popping boba ($8).
O, the Places You'll Go!
At St. Augustine’s newborn sweet shop, Fiction Donuts, owner Danielle Broderson wants you to have it all: good book, good donut, good time. You bring the book, they’ll do the donuts. It’s a bright, casual, airy space, with lots of small tables and bar seating by the large windows. The longest wall is festooned with a mural of book spines–lots and lots of book spines–on an imaginary bookshelf. See if the artist drew your favorite tome there.
Swoop South for Tacos
It may have the same eponym as University of North Florida’s mascot, but Osprey Tacos is located well south of campus, all the way across the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine. Tacos are a true bridge to joy and Osprey takes you over it on wingéd feet. Depending on how fancy you’re feeling, pick between Street Tacos or Boulevard Tacos. Street includes a double corn shell, onion, cilantro and radishes and your choice among classics like pollo asada (grilled or blackened chicken), carnitas and more.
The Last Straw - Folio Weekly
Pick a straw, any straw, as long as it’s reusable. Getting rid of single-use plastic straws might seem like a drop in the bucket when it comes to reducing plastic waste, but it’s part of a larger goal when working on lasting habits. Remembering to request drinks without the usual plastic straw gets us in the mindset to think about bringing our tote bags to the grocery stores, using reusable glass containers for food … and not forgetting our reusable straw on the table.
Innovative Dessert Place is So Cold
We’re deep in sweltering summertime, with sunscreen, beaches, sand and Ol’ Sol and something hella cold to go with it all. Cue Snowgenix, a Taiwanese ice cream shop in a little strip mall on Old Baymeadows Road.
Dive into Fresh Seafood at the Beaches
Fresh seafood is waiting for you at the beach—and, no, you don’t have to catch it yourself. Tucked into a strip mall, Two Dudes Seafood Restaurant in Atlantic Beach is probably the last place you’d expect to find fresh, delicious seafood. Well, kick your judgy nature to the curb, because this place is delicious. It’s all about the surf at Two Dudes, so it’s no surprise that beach and surfing paraphernalia line the walls. There’s also a very important, central, giant chalkboard on one wall.
Loafing Around - Folio Weekly
In case you hadn’t noticed, there’s a dearth of good delis in this region. I’m always on a quest for a good Reuben; it doesn’t seem like too much to ask to have a giant sandwich with corned beef, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing and a pickle on the side. Mocha Rita’s, with its vast (we counted at least 24 on the menu) sandwich selection, offered a ray of hope in the miasma of lunch spots, so off we went. As you walk in, it’s like being beamed back to a ’90s café.
A Flavor Pleasure Cruise Awaits in St. Johns Town Center
St. Johns Town Center is awash with places to stick your fork into, but finding something new can be a challenge. If you’re done with burger baskets, and barbecue dressed in plaid, Rush Hour Kitchen is up to the challenge of serving something other than the same old, same old. Rush Hour offers a broad variety of Asian fusion, so we took a little tour around the continent. From Thailand to Vietnam, they have a grip on the cuisine, at least the Americanized version, because everything was delightful.
Get Down to Great Coffee
There's a new coffee spot in Jax, with a one-two punch: a great menu and quality coffee. Brass Tacks, a bright, airy space on Southside Boulevard, is across the street from that chain-whose-name-we-dare-not-speak, close enough to compete (go local, y'all!). Zip in and out the drive-thru (locals will remember it fondly from its days as Bad Ass Coffee Co.) for a strong cup to will get you pumped to start your day or keep it going.
All A-Bao Dat & Dim Sum
The busy confluence of boulevards—Beach and Hodges—seems to change from day to day, with stores opening and closing at the blink of an eye. So it's reassuring to see the familiar stylish décor, gleaming wood floors and charming chandeliers in Hong Kong Bistro, a long-standing Cantonese restaurant. The authentic Asian fare isn't just Cantonese, though; you can travel from province to province, digging in as you go.
Nacho Typical Taco Spot
Chef Kenny Gilbert strikes again with a popup taco shop in his food hall space at the beach. One location has four concepts: Gilbert's Hot Chicken, Fish + Shrimp; Gilbert's Southern Kitchen + Bar, Seachasers Lounge and the pop-up patio space that now houses Gilbert's BBQ Tacos + Beer.This concept of a food hall does really well in other cities; I'm thrilled to have one in Jax.
Find your Function at Grown-Up Burger Bar
There's something about the aroma of a juicy burger being cooked to order that makes a carnivore's mouth water. The area's newish Graffiti Junktion American Burger Bars have two functions: Send that scent through the air, then satisfy the cravings it creates. The casual Jax Beach spot has indoor and outdoor bars and seating; the service is efficient—a sports bar vibe with a street art nuance.
International Delights
When you're in the mood for Italian coffee and French pastries, step into the European-style café Bakery Ribault. Tucked into 5 Points, Ribault has a fabulous selection of pastries, coffees and teas, and a small raised patio area reminiscent of the tilting street-side dining of Italian cafés. There's plenty of inside seating, but I recommend sitting outdoors as long as the weather holds. The later you go, the less chance they'll have a full pastry case, so that's two reasons to get up early.
All That & Dim Sum
Sticky, crunchy, silky, chewy, sweet, gooey, savory, sour. Dim sum is a riot of textures, flavors and colors of which no one should be deprived. Timwah Dim Sum Restaurant is the first dim sum-only restaurant in town and I'm a little behind the curve, as I just made it to the Southside spot that opened last summer. Dim sum, a traditional Chinese breakfast food, has evolved into fare for an anytime meal. Honestly, I'd prefer it over sugary French toast, but something tells me I'm in the minority.
Aw, Shuck Yeah!
What you see is what you get at Lulu's Waterfront Grille, and you're going to like what you get! Fresh fish, water views and frozen drinks—what more could you possibly want? Tucked away along the intercoastal in Ponte Vedra with a perfect water view, the atmosphere alone is reason enough to stop in. Add ample indoor and outdoor seating and a refreshingly open interior and you get a lovely lunch or dinner spot.
We Like Big Pots
Ramen lovers rejoice, because Crane Ramen has come to Jacksonville! For having a small footprint, the space is quite ample, with two outdoor seating areas: on a front porch-ish area and on a back patio, where a ramen bar lets you see the chef prep bowls and crisp Brussels sprouts, and a second bar from which you order Japanese beer like Asahi and Kirin, traditional sake and fantastic cocktails. Crane's cocktail program is run by Austin Reinhard, and the choices are refreshing.
Korean Staple Shares Culinary Tradition with Jax
Sam Won Garden Korean BBQ has been a staple when it comes to Korean in Jax. Like many good Asian spots, it's tucked into an unassuming strip mall with lots of neon lights. Walk in and choose between a regular or DIY Korean BBQ table (for at least two people). You know you're a legit Korean restaurant when you're greeted by banchan when you sit down to dinner. Translating to "side dishes," these small bowls of pickled veggies and other items are a Korean staple.
Everything's *en fuego* at Chef Gilbert's New Spot
It's reached the point that I roll my eyes every time I hear about a new Southern-style joint, but when Chef Kenny Gilbert opened Gilbert's Hot Chicken, Fish + Shrimp in Jax Beach, I started drooling. We met Chef Kenny at his second restaurant, Gilbert's Social on Southside Boulevard; once you taste his food, there's no turning back. The menu is simple and gets the job done. Dealer's choice: fried chicken, fish or shrimp, with or without sauce.
Pickle Revival
Home pickling is back in practice and your grandma's not the only one with the skills. What was once necessary to preserve produce became less prevalent with the rise of refrigeration and, to be quite honest, rampant food waste.
The HEAT is On
Little plates of veggies zoom around as you're lulled by the gently bubbling hot pot and aromas of the brand-new HotSpot Korean BBQ. Newly opened on the Southside, HotSpot offers a unique experience and a slightly overwhelming variety. Be ready to try new things. All-you-can-eat hot pot is a flat $23.99 for adults and $13.99 for kids 4-9 years old. As there's boiling liquid and a grill right at your table, parents, keep an eye on those small hands.
ROLL with It
Some days, you need sushi—something light, but something that sticks to your ribs, like an ideal summer repast. Don’t kid yourself–summer’s coming, hot, sticky conditions when nothing but sushi will cool the palate. Sawa Sushi, tucked in a strip-mall, is the kind of place I love; the staff’s friendly, it’s nice and quiet, and has good, quality food at good prices.
A Great COMEBACK
“What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.” The adage holds true for San Marco staple Bistro Aix. After taking a beating from Hurricane Irma, which included four feet of flooding, the French favorite was revamped and remodeled. Now it’s reopened and folks are flocking back for the same delicious food. You’ll find a brighter space, cleaner lines and lighter colors and furniture.
A Li'l SUMPIN' SUMPIN' for All
Barrique Kitchen & Wine Bar, the newest spot in Avondale, will upgrade Ladies Night and make an intimate dining experience for two even better. It’s also a spacious, fun spot with a great wine selection and elegant food. This is a wine bar, after all—in fact, the restaurant, inspired by Spanish, Italian and French cuisine, gets its name from a small oak barrel used in wine-making—so start with some sparkling, white or red vino. After sampling a bit, I ordered Opera Cava ($9).
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