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Articles by Briony Wright
Paris, Texas at Schiaparelli
In 1952, Elsa Schiaparelli ventured to Fiera de Santana in Brazil, where she described being “dressed in a cowboy outfit embroidered with white butterflies... in [her] hands held a lasso to catch an invisible cow!” Shortly after the cattle drive, the Vaquieros, or cowboys, rode with Schiaparelli back to the corral. It was here that she was awarded the ‘Order of the Vaquieros,’ something she likened to a primitive rite. Why the cowboy discussion?
Prada Covers Up
0 $0.00 0 items At the mark of a quarter-century, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons negotiate what beauty and femininity mean at Prada. If we were to take a sweeping survey of the Western beauty ideal and the concept of the feminine, it would include a surgical menu of procedures and modifications.
Tao's Miny, Mighty Show
The Comme des Garçons office in Tokyo, with its unflinching pale light, feels more like an art gallery. Tao Kurihara would not want you to think that her Spring/Summer collection is a work of art, though. As a member of the Comme crew, Kurihara's pieces reject commerciality in favour of individual expressionism, subversive silhouettes and handmade application.
Graedance's Rong Jake Chen is Forging his Own Path in Jewellery Design
Rong Jake Chen's path to starting his jewellery label, Melbourne-based Graedance, is a coming-of-age tale that matches the brand's ethos: one where a precocious and ambitious young man sets off into the world looking for ways to express himself, is swept up in the whirlwind ready-to-wear fashion industry, and eventually, through timing, reflection and self-learning, brings his passion project to life.
Lorenzo Bonanni's Modern Crazy World
0 $0.00 0 items photography photographer LORENZO BONANNI stylist STELA PLAKA make-up BENEDETTA EFAICCHIO talent TYLA LYNNEE stylist assistant BAHAR KHATONY Related Articles Antares align in Steph Cammarano and Monica Morales' Fashion Story By Rachel Weinberg Australian Fashion Week Wrap By Briony Wright Dilettante's Fashion Archive Market Returns By Olivia Mond WOOD WOOD FW22 Collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week By To Be Team Simple, Sparkly, Striking Sandy Liang! By Rachel Weinberg Prada’s...
Yohji Yamamoto’s Everyday Armour
In the 1989 documentary film, Notebook on Cities and Clothes, director Wim Wenders recalls the first time he tried on a Yohji Yamamoto jacket and the extraordinary sense of protection it elicited. In the film’s voiceover, he remarks, “I felt protected like a knight in his armour.” This has always been Yamamoto’s vision. The designer, who turned 80 last October, has spent the better part of five decades creating everyday armour out of fabric.
Will Dries Van Noten’s Resignation Reconfigure Fashion for the Better?
In a darkened room, damp with the evaporated sweat of hundreds of eager NYFW attendees, I witnessed a show that was both tickling and disheartening. The designer, who will remain nameless, presented a series of colourful looks, each punctuated by windswept draping and surrounded by thumping soundwaves. The whole thing felt like a disruption for the sake of disrupting.
BEHIND the CURTAIN to ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S CREATIVE UNIVERSE
In the space of 18 years, Lee Alexander McQueen created and presented clothes that blurred the line between fashion, art, design and storytelling, relentlessly challenging the construct and confines of the fashion industry along the way. A master of efficiency, McQueen harnessed the material and people in his orbit to build new worlds and powerful visual narratives.
How Melbourne’s favourite upcoming designers are redefining the codes of making and showing fashion in a post-pandemic industry
By Briony Wright Sitting around a table in Melbourne with a group of talented young fashion designers - most wearing their own designs by request - I ask who of the nine would be overseas now if it weren’t for the pandemic. As almost every hand goes up, we’re reminded what a unique situation this has created, with promising talent working at home and bolstering our industry rather than in whichever city they’d originally set their sights on.
What Else? - to Be Magazine
By Briony Wright What Else? is a digital platform launched in the wake of covid, with the intention of interrogating and improving the structure, transparency and integrity of the Australian fashion industry. As the passion project of stylist Charlotte Agnew, What Else?
Byron Bay band Parcels and Gucci are a match made in heaven
There’s maybe no other band in the world more perfect for a Gucci collaboration than Parcels. Five high school bffs who channelled their talents into a groovy electro-pop band in 2014, Louie, Patrick, Noah, Anatole and Jules have long served up effortlessly coordinated, lanky-haired style with nods to beach culture, 70s rock and classic suiting vibes.
Art For India are selling prints to raise urgent funds
As people around the world are being vaccinated in an effort to create widespread immunity to Covid-19, India is in the midst of a devastating second wave of the virus. With over 300,000 new cases being reported every day, and a total number of active cases around 3.5 million, the situation is dire. Even worse, medical experts believe that the real numbers across the country of 1.35 billion may actually be far higher than the official tally.
Meet the Australian designer behind the ‘warped vest’ we all want
Phoebe Pendergast-Jones creates technically ambitious, multi-dimensional garments that seem like a lot of fun to wear. Generous with her use of fabric and pattern, Phoebe’s designs are full of volume, movement and millennial energy that’s impossible to fake.
Il documentario che esplora le possibilità della progettazione di moda per corpi diversi
| | 18 marzo 2021, 12:45pm Si intitola "Clothes in Conversation", e segue il processo creativo di sei designer giapponesi dietro alla realizzazione di capi funzionali e sperimentali allo stesso tempo. | 18 marzo 2021, 12:45pm Fotografia di LILY SHUFotografia d True Colours è il festival presentato dalla Nippon Foundation, in Giappone, per celebrare artisti con disabilità attraverso un programma di eventi organizzati e curati con grande attenzione.
Uniqlo China bans adults from trying on kids' clothes for 'BM Style' trend
When Silvio Marsan launched his women’s label Brandy Melville in Italy in the early 80s, it’s unlikely he could have imagined the magnitude of its eventual popularity. Since opening their first American store in 2009, selling their distinctively tiny, ‘one-size-fits-all’, preppy basics to a wider market, Brandy Melville has become a favourite for young girls (and some older women) who aspire to the very-thin and typically very-white image the brand has fostered.
This film explores the unique experience of designing fashion for diverse models
True Colors is a festival presented by The Nippon Foundation in Japan celebrating artists with disabilities through a program of thoughtfully curated, high production events. By providing platforms for diverse talents to showcase their often underrepresented skills, True Colors’ mission has long been to foster a more inclusive and accepting society in Japan and around the world.
Dover Street Market in Singapore is helping celebrate i-D’s 40th anniversary
Turning 40 is a big deal. Late last year, to mark four beautiful decades, i-D released a limited-edition capsule collection with Dover Street Market in New York, LA and Tokyo featuring collaborations with the creative minds at some of our all time favourite brands including Stüssy, Awake NY, Comme des Garçons, IDEA, Aries and more.
A Positive Message is the P.A.M. fashion collab amplifying good vibes
Earlier this year, Australian label P.A.M. joined forces with record-label-owner and creative-all-rounder Cali DeWitt on a new line of environmentally-conscious clothing and accessories called A Positive Message. Taking P.A.M.’s experimental approach to design and dialling up the feel-good factor, A Positive Message takes its inspiration from the designers’ community of creative friends and the small pleasures they find in life.
Photos reflecting the quiet energy of Shanghai youth
Tyler Q Durden is a photographer from Shanghai who, since 2018, has worked on a photography project called Volcano. Inspired by the energy, creativity and resilience of his friends, Volcano looks to capture the spirit of his community and the 'pure eruption' of moods and feelings they experience at different times. As an addition to the series, Tyler also made a short film in the wake of the first coronavirus wave, bringing his idea to life in a wash of fashion, music and tattoos. Watch it below.
how andy warhol used store window displays to launch an art career
Andy Warhol's window display at Bonwit Teller department store, 1961. Photograph by Nathan Gluck © Estate of Nathan Gluck. Courtesy of Luis De Jesus Los Angeles Right now, a large recreation of an early Andy Warhol store window display is on view at The Art Gallery of New South Wales's current exhibition, Adman: Warhol Before Pop. It's a rare piece that was produced by the budding artist in 1955 for high-end department store Bonwit Teller, to advertise a perfume called Mistigri by Jacques Griffe.
13 Singaporean creatives on emerging stronger in 2020
To say that most people had the rug pulled out from underneath them in 2020 is, unbelievably, a real understatement. This year, with virtually no one spared, even our most well-laid plans went down the drain along with regular human contact. In response to early cases of the coronavirus, Singapore was quick to shut down, with the government enforcing a strict two-month circuit breaker lockdown.
louise whelan's photographic document of a changing australia
Photography Louise Whelan. Nadine on stage with her siblings awaiting a dance performance by the ‘Congolese Boys’ from Wollongong. Louise Whelan is deeply fascinated with Australia's ever-expanding multiculturalism. She spends her days befriending and documenting the people she meets through her work--whether they're asylum seekers and refugees, displaced skaters, the local Mandaean population or Muslim fashion designers.
a new photobook captures a young amy winehouse during happier times
A new book of previously-unseen photos of Amy Winehouse, taken in 2003 around the release of her first album Frank, is currently in production with funding via a Kickstarter campaign. Photographer Charles Moriarty shot the candid image of Amy in a bright pink top, leading a dog and partially obscured by darkness that would become the cover image for Frank.
Sho Shibuya’s New York Times paintings capture our moment
When Sho Shibuya began painting April sunrises onto the front page of the New York Times each day, the images were small rectangles in the middle of the day’s headlines. The colourful gradients, which reflected what Sho had seen outside his window that morning, were a reminder of the beauty in the world and an antidote to the intensity of the daily news. By May, as the coronavirus spread across the world, Sho’s paintings began to fill the front page.
NIKI is on a mission to reverse the underrepresentation of Asian artists
NIKI is a 21-year-old Jakartan singer, songwriter and producer who just released her debut album, Moonchild, a genre-fluid opus in three parts. Now based in LA and signed to Sean Miyashiro’s 88rising label, her rise contains echoes of Justin Bieber’s well-documented origin story. At 15, as a self-declared ‘foot-of-the-bed guitar-girl’, NIKI entered a competition to support Taylor Swift on the Indonesian leg of her tour. Reader: she won the contest.
Unearthing 20 years of magic and no rules in P.A.M.'s clothing archives
When P.A.M. came to life in 2000 as a collaboration between Misha Hollenbach and Shauna Toohey (Perks and Mini), the designers tacitly invited us to see and experience the world in a different way. Through their clothes, words, music and art, they opened up portals into unexpected realms where earth, space, past and future collide.
Artist and model Aya Shalkar's work addresses women's rights in Kazakhstan
When Aya Shalkar made the decision to tackle women’s rights in Kazakhstan with her latest project, there was no such thing as COVID-19. At the time, Aya’s plan was to create a physical exhibition which would inspire conversation about the country’s very real gender-inequality issues and empower women affected by the culture of violence and oppression to speak up and be heard.
Fotografie della Seoul che i turisti non vedono mai
Yenata è una giovane fotografa coreana che ha studiato fashion design prima di rendersi conto della sua passione per la fotografia, cambiando così la sua pratica artistica nel 2016. In questi quattro anni trascorsi da allora, è stata davvero prolifica nel suo lavoro, catturando la bellezza anticonvenzionale dei suoi amici in candidi momenti intimi, come retroscena privati. Il suo lavoro è audace, sexy, sognante e a tratti disturbante, pregno dell’energia dei suoi amici e familiari.
Yenata's candid photography unveils a liberated side of Seoul
Yenata is a young Korean photographer who studied fashion design before realising her passion for photography and switching crafts in 2016. In the four years since, she has been prolific in her work, capturing her beautiful friends in candid behind-the-scenes moments. Her work is daring, sexy, dreamlike and a little bit scary, brimming with the energy of her friends and family. Another hallmark of Yenata’s work is her strong use of colour.
How India’s TikTok ban has displaced its 200M users
Before it was banned late last month, TikTok was India’s most frequently downloaded app, accounting for around one-third of TikTok downloads worldwide. For the country’s 200 million users, the app provided a modern megaphone for everyone from quarantine-bound tweens and Bollywood stars to stay-at-home mums and marginalised regional farmers - a positive lifeline of communication and income for many who had few other options.
Taiwanese musician 9m88 is the next guest at Loewe En Casa
As people around the world continue to deal with the ramifications of isolation, creative communities everywhere are rising to the difficult occasion and innovating approaches to help showcase their work. Thanks to digital technology, never before have we been so spoilt with incredible free art, bedroom gigs, talks, workshops, dance classes and panels, all streamed directly into the claustrophobic comfort of our own homes.
Singapore's new generation are forging a creative renaissance
Singapore is a young city known for being clean, safe and orderly, with good public housing and public transport and, as far as concrete jungles go, lots of lush, green space. As a Southeast Asian hub, it’s also a multicultural melting pot. For people hoping to go down a creative path however, living in Singapore hasn’t historically been all roses. For starters, it’s a very small market, making it competitive and difficult to build an economically viable audience.
Youths in Balaclava are Singapore's favourite fashion agitators
As members of Youths in Balaclava trickle onto a rooftop carpark in downtown Singapore, it’s clear there’s nothing predictable about their style. They combine vintage items, which have been cut up, reversed and reworked, with pieces from their own collections and accessories that adhere to no code. Making up this resplendent troop are 13 members from diverse backgrounds who met during high school and, around the same time, formed the DIY collective.
the unlikely story behind d.a.r.e. to keep kids off drugs t-shirts
Wearing your politics on your t-shirt is a simple and direct way to communicate what you believe. Practiced by everyone from concerned citizens and protesters to feminists and fashion designers, the action is not only more visible than ever, but also more loaded. T-shirts bearing bold sentiments like The Future Is Female or This Pussy Grabs Back can cut to the core of current issues, serving as their own kind of peaceful war-cry for those who may not otherwise have a voice.
witnessing the energy and activism of brazil's underground dance-music scene
This article originally appeared on i-D AU. Hobart is a quiet town with a population of two hundred thousand and a bubbling creative scene. São Paulo on the other hand is home to over twelve million and is a city that, due to extreme living conditions and a staunchly right-wing government, has given rise to some of the most radical underground parties in the world.
a documentary exploring the untold story of the mysterious maison martin margiela is coming
With the collective appetite for Margiela-related news fuelled by the label's enduring culture of elusiveness, the announcement of an insightful documentary and book, both titled We Margiela, set for release this year, is truly exciting. Once labelled 'fashion's invisible designer' Martin Margiela spent his career avoiding interviews, photographs and end-of-show bows and seemed to disappear into thin air after leaving the house in 2009.
'Asian Girls' is the mesmerizing horror film taking on cultural fetishization
This article originally appeared on i-D Australia. Hyun Lee began making films three short years ago but has already, very convincingly, revealed her talent for the craft. Hyun’s first short Asian Girls has just been released online following a run of film festival premieres last year. She also has a second short called French Girls in the works as well as a feature-length, which we’re not allowed to know anything more about at this early stage.
'asian girls' is the mesmerizing horror film taking on cultural fetishization
This article originally appeared on i-D AU. Hyun Lee began making films three short years ago but has already, very convincingly, revealed her talent for the craft. Hyun’s first short Asian Girls has just been released online following a run of film festival premieres last year. She also has a second short called French Girls in the works as well as a feature-length, which we’re not allowed to know anything more about at this early stage. Essentially, it would seem that Hyun has found her calling.
this artist paints the private and public personas of her friends
This article originally appeared on i-D AU. Kim Hyunji is a Korean-born, Australian-based artist who bares the body and souls of her friends and acquaintances in her paintings. Typically nude and sometimes in the midst of something private, Kim’s subjects reveal more of themselves in one portrait than they might in an entire Instagram feed.
louise whelan's photographic document of a changing australia
Photography Louise Whelan. Nadine on stage with her siblings awaiting a dance performance by the ‘Congolese Boys’ from Wollongong. Louise Whelan is deeply fascinated with Australia's ever-expanding multiculturalism. She spends her days befriending and documenting the people she meets through her work--whether that's asylum seekers and refugees, displaced skaters, the local Mandaean population or Muslim fashion designers.
travis scott is applying for harvard
2018 has been a big year for Travis Scott. In February he had his first child with Kylie Jenner. Not long after, he was given the keys to his hometown in Missouri, Texas, an honor that he described as “better than any award show I’ve ever been to.” Right now he’s in the middle of his huge Astroworld tour and his single Sicko Mode is number one. To support the album he’s also released some of the most epicly trippy videos of 2018.
travis scott is applying for harvard
2018 has been a big year for Travis Scott. In February he had his first child with Kylie Jenner. Not long after, he was given the keys to his hometown in Missouri, Texas, an honour that he described as “better than any award show I’ve ever been to.” Right now he’s in the middle of his huge Astroworld tour and his single Sicko Mode is number one. To support the album he’s also released some of the most epicly trippy videos of 2018.
Chanel Is Banning Exotic Skins and Fur from Future Collections
Ahead of its Metiers d’Art show at the Met, Chanel has joined the growing list of luxury labels banning not only fur but also the use of exotic animal skins in future collections. According to WWD, where other labels have continued to incorporate exotic animal skin, but with a greater focus on ethically-farmed sources, Chanel has promised to stop the practice all together. The skins in question range from snake, crocodile and lizard to shark and stingray.
Chanel Is Banning Exotic Skins and Fur from Future Collections
Ahead of its Metiers d’Art show at the Met, Chanel has joined the growing list of luxury labels banning not only fur but also the use of exotic animal skins in future collections. According to WWD, where other labels have continued to incorporate exotic animal skin, but with a greater focus on trying to use ethically-farmed sources, Chanel has promised to stop the practice all together. The skins in question range from snake, crocodile and lizard to shark and stingray.
Chanel Is Banning Exotic Skins and Fur from Future Collections
Ahead of its Metiers d’Art show at the Met, Chanel has joined the growing list of luxury labels banning not only fur but also the use of exotic animal skins in future collections. According to WWD, where other labels have continued to incorporate exotic animal skin, but with a greater focus on ethically-farmed sources, Chanel has promised to stop the practice all together. The skins in question range from snake, crocodile and lizard to shark and stingray.
banoffee on building her hyper-real world for fans and friends
Banoffee wears Chanel dress and bracelets (on head), Burberry keyring. A lot has happened for Banoffee since she packed up and moved from Melbourne to L.A. last year. In between collaborating with SOPHIE and penning lyrics for huge artists, she joined Charli XCX’s band for a worldwide tour supporting Taylor Swift. All the while she’s been releasing confident new music and the first pieces of a collaboration with fashion label Skodia.
the australian fashion graduates to watch out for
Right now around the country, hundreds of fashion students are in the midst of packing down and folding away a year's worth of work as they contemplate their next step and look forward to the realities of their industry. For the past three or four years, these students have delved deep into the meaning and significance of their practice, the environmental cost of fashion and the impact they hope to have on the world.
vivienne westwood takes on fracking with america's cup protest tees
By Image supplied. Vivienne Westwood has turned her attention to New Zealand for her next anti-fracking campaign, in particular the 2021 America's Cup to be hosted in Auckland. Vivienne and her son Joe Corre have designed a protest T-shirt as a part of a campaign to have petrochemical company INEOS banned from sponsoring the UK's cup team.
david lachapelle on new work and life’s lessons
This article was originally published by i-D Australia. David LaChapelle is one of the most extraordinary image makers and storytellers of our time. His hyperreal, obsessively detailed photographs bare the souls of some of the most famous people in the world.
fashion students in australia are using crowdfunding to secure creative freedom
As we've discussed before on i-D, the journey of a fashion student is a uniquely complex one. On the one hand, creativity and experimentation is widely encouraged but on the other, students rarely have the funds or means to execute their vision. It's a common conundrum, which has resulted in graduate students complaining of unusually high levels of emotional, financial and creative stress.
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