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Articles by Edie Smith
Hermia de Karen Timson
"Una olorosa guirnalda de dulces capullos de verano". El sueño de una noche de verano, Shakespeare Últimamente me ha costado trabajo "despertar el vivaz y ágil espíritu de la alegría", pero toparme con esta pequeña creación ha espolvoreado un poco de polvo de hadas en mis percepciones de nuevo.
FRAGRANTICA BEST PERFUMES 2025: Edie Smith & Patric Rhys ~ Fragrantica ~ Fragrantica
Fragrantica writers select their best fragrances of 2025! EDIE SMITH THE BEST 2025 Pêche Mirage& Salum Exotic Chocolate I had no hopes at all before I tested Pêche Mirage, and indeed braced to hate it. It seems to polarise opinion. But I tested on skin on a cold day and loved it. This is just absolutely beautiful and beautifully done. This is how perfume should ideally smell and behave, as far as I'm concerned.
Zoologist Rabbit: A Bunny For All Seasons
She filled a jug with silver daisies and buttercups. "You like them just as much, don't you, Moldy Warp?" she asked wistfully. "More, much more," answered Mole, "What is a precious stone to a living flower?" from Little Grey Rabbit by Alison Uttley Rabbits must have the best PR in the pet business.
Versace Crystal Emerald: Modern Fruity Floral
Ooh, a new Versace release! A fruity floral you say? Take my money. (It was 20% off for extra persuasion.) I stumbled upon Versace Crystal Emerald in town, by accident, a last lonely little box on a shelf, and bought it instantly out of sympathy and curiosity, because there was no tester. Seeing it was the first I'd heard of it. After a quick search for info, I had high hopes it might be like the fruity florals of the early 00s. Of course it is not, although I do quite like it. Sort of.
Gini Parfums' Mistici Sentieri: Liminal & Reflective. ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
Upon first acquaintance with Mistici Sentieri, presented at Pitti Fragranze 2025, I got the wrong impression. I initially presumed the snake emblem on the bottle merely reflected its being launched this year, 2025, the year of the Wood Snake. It does not, yet this idea is also perfectly fitting to its story. Brand founder Francesco Gini told me the inspiration for the fragrance came from thinking about his great-grandparents, who were gypsies, and their travels around the globe.
Salum Exotic Chocolate: Milky Bars Bottled
"Only the best is good enough." If only Nestle had stuck to their guns on that score. For what the Milky Bar has become they ought to be squinting at The Kid from behind a cactus under the desert sky as he pulls the trigger. Bang! says the little flag. Bang and the taste is gone I say. It's just different now. I only discovered the disappointment thanks to Salum's newest creation Exotic Chocolate. It was by far and away my favourite discovery at Pitti. Fabulous stuff, it ought to be bottled.
Remembering Giorgio Armani and His Fragrance Legacy
Giorgio Armani has died at the age of 91 and a great chapter in the history of world fashion is closing. The news of Armani's demise came after a prolonged period of illness for which little was disclosed, but the maestro was at the helm of his empire until the very end. He was preparing the events for his 50th anniversary, which he would have celebrated at the end of September during Milan Fashion Week.
Jo Loves Introduces Roses & Dates ~ New Fragrances ~ Fragrantica
by Edie Smith 14 minutes ago Jo Loves introduces Roses & Dates, inspired by Jo's travels through Marrakesh, inviting us to experience the magic of Morocco. The fragrance captures the everyday rituals of Moroccan life in all their spirit, warmth and colour.
Risvelium: The Drugs Don't Work
Somewhere along the way, the idea arose that we ought to be happy all of the time. * * * We love a quick fix, don't we? Microwaves, fast fashion. A quick scroll for info, no need to question further. Sugar for instant energy, a mood boost, a drug can fix the flab later. A pill for every ill. AI will now do everything for you, including your creativity. Yet still we have no soma. God knows we've tried.
BEST FRAGRANCES SPRING–SUMMER 2025: Edie Smith & Giulietta Ptoyan ~ Fragrantica ~ Fragrantica
Our Italian and British editors highlight some new fragrances from their countries. BY EDIE SMITH Summer in the UK has just finished, lol. It was the usual four days of nice weather at which panic ensues because we're still not used to seeing the firey ball in the sky in these parts. British men donned their uniform of plastic slides and combat shorts, the better to do battle blowing up the paddling pool, our only recourse to coping with 30 degrees because we don't have aircon at home here.
Barnes Fragrance Fair 2025: Quirky British Fun!
The lovely, leafy Barnes sits south of the river Thames in London, a bit posh (I walked past a shop selling artisan dishcloths) and with a village feel, it's the perfect place for the Fragrance Fair that feels like a village fête. There was jam, scones (rose flavoured!), shortbread (lavender flavoured, from Castle Lavender), ice-cream, a raffle and bunting.
In the Village...
Get up, get up for shame, the blooming Morne Upon her wings presents the god unshorne See how Aurora throws her fair Fresh-quilted colours through the air Corinna's Going A-Maying Robert Herrick The village rises in the grey-green twillight. The sun is not yet up, but as we climb the hill, fingers of gold are beginning to claw their way up and over the horizon. Their light is soft but insistent, a hand on the back, pressing us upwards.
The Las Islas Collection From Beso Beach
by Edie Smith ( 2 comments ) Beso Beach began life as a fashionable beach bar and restaurant on the Balearic island of Formentera, expanding into a chain of restaurants in Ibiza, Sitges and Tulum, and developing the merchandise necessary for a lifestyle brand: clothes, accessories, jewelry, and of course, perfume. Their fragrance line is in collaboration with Carner Barcelona (they always share a stand at Esxence), and they share a similar boho Mediterranean vibe.
Navitus Introduce The Reverie Collection
Luxury niche brand Navitus Parfums have launched their Reverie Collection, two new Neiman Marcus Exclusives: Reverie Blanc and Reverie Rouge. Creative Director for Reverie Rouge is Sharida Moore, and this is her third Navitus collaboration; she previously worked on the fragrances Peach Aurum and Mahni Cassonade.
Fruity by Olfactive O: An Ephemeral Sunbeam
I just love this little thing. It's so cute and smiley that I want to pat it on the head and give it a biscuit. It smells like it means well and wants to do its best to make you happy. It began with such good intentions. But I also have to share a caveat. I discovered it at the Barnes Fragrance Fair back in May, and I meant to write about it straight away, but I'm glad I waited because things changed.
Jo Loves Launches Black Cashmeran & Tonka ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
Jo Loves introduces a new addition, Black Cashmeran & Tonka, a rich, bold fragrance full of confidence and strength. "A visit to Dubai many years ago etched itself in the depths of my memory in the form of rich and deep ouds, strong and powerful noir coffee and soft cashmeran. I knew my creativity had been ignited. Black Cashmeran & Tonka is my story of a new life adventure full of boldness and passion." –Jo Malone.
TASTE & SMELL: Banana Crisps ~ Flavour Fusions ~ Fragrantica
I once went round to visit someone and their place smelled fabulous. It was a welcome change, as normally it smelled of joss sticks or stale joss sticks and unwashed bedclothes (depression is terrible thing), so it was a happy contrast. They were making banana chips, or crisps, and gave me their very simple recipe. Despite its simplicity it does take hours, though.
Jo Malone Launches Hinoki & Cedarwood Cologne Intense ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
Jo Malone London launches Hinoki & Cedarwood, the newest addition to their Cologne Intense Collection. "Hinoki wood has always been highly prized and was at one time protected by the Samurai. It’s still protected today, just in a different way: our suppliers harvest branches that are then processed by local artisans in the same Japanese village." –a note from the brand. Immerse yourself in the ritual of Japanese Forest Bathing.
Infinite Sky, A Romance
Unlike Eddie in his review, I love the names of the , for precisely the reason he doesn't like them - for their clichéd sounding romantic vibe. They resemble vintage Mills & Boon titles from the 1970s, which I confess to collecting, partly for the cover drawings. (Apparently the designer Paul Smith is also a fan and has some in his vast, eclectic art collection.) I only like the 60s and 70s era for the art, and read them partly for their unintentional comedy.
Juanillo by Adamo: A Manmade Beach
I refuse to countenance the beginning of Autumn. I've only just returned from a holiday and am not at all ready to let go of the sun. If you, too, hope for an Indian summer, perhaps Adamo can oblige. The destination of Playa Juanillo in the Dominican Republic is the zenith of beach, with the kind of soft, powdery white sand, clear turquoise waters, and palm trees silhouetted against the sunset that make the covers of holiday brochures.
Plume's Impression of Summer: Murmure d'Ete
It's mostly been raining cats and dogs in England this 'summer', but I've smelled like the best summer day regardless. Murmure d'Ete means 'Summer Whisper'; it may not shout, but it does talk about warmth, sunshine, and idyllic times in a clear poetic voice. I almost didn't even test this fragrance. The first cursory web glance flashed me the descriptive words amber woody, to which I had the Pavlovian response: Eau no.
Rabanne launches La Collection Rabanne
Three years in the making, Puig owned Rabanne introduce their first foray into the luxury fragrance market with a collection comprising eight new scents, simply called – La Collection Rabanne. The collection is designed for the discerning niche customer, and is part of a wider rebrand that has seen 'Paco' dropped from the name, following the designer's death early last year.
Pictor Parfum: Picture This
I went to a wedding recently and the photographer was terrible. Admittedly I haven't seen the pictures yet, so I'll explain. A wedding photographer should be part of the ambiance, friendly, good with people, good at organisation, herding the crowd when necessary, getting them all to smile and look this way etc.
ELECTIMUSS Launches SPICE D'ARNO ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
Electimuss presents Spice D'Arno, the first release in 2024 from the new Explorer Collection. A second release is planned for later in the year. The collection will be housed in bottles of firey orange glass, symbolising the optimism and blazing energy of the sunrise. Roman society loved exploration, both outwardly, crossing continents to find fresh trade routes, and inwardly, via the intellectual rigours of philosophy; few frontiers were left untouched.
Graham & Pott's Jardin Éthérés: Rose Lemonade ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
'It’s the fresh air that does it,’ said the Rose: ‘wonderfully fine air it is, out here.’ - from Alice's Adventures Through the Looking-Glass. Wearing Graham & Pott's Jardin Éthérés feels to me like wearing a strapless 1950s boned sundress with a full skirt covering a lot of petticoats. In a big, stylized rose print, painted with broad strokes, on a bright white background, and maybe some fruit motifs in between. A cartoon Dior's New Look silhouette.
SUMMER 2024 PERFUME HIGHLIGHTS: Mood Canvas Seven Gates & Star - Seren Wales Perfumery ~ Fragrantica ~ Fragrantica
Two excellent new perfumes from very young perfume houses, from Türkiye and Wales. Mood Canvas Seven Gates BY MIGUEL MATOS Incense is a note that doesn't speak to me. Not because it has negative connotations, not at all. I have no memories associated with such material. It's just a smell that seems too formal and serious. I perceive it as being too cold, mineral, metallic and aloof.
EAUSO VERT Launches SALVIA SALVIA
EAUSO VERT introduces SALVIA SALVIA (SUPER SAGE), an innovative aquatic fougere with savoury skin musk. The composition contains an overdose of upcycled Sage essence and utilises specialty Givauden ingredients: Rosyfolia for fruity/airy elegance, Sylkolide musk for a sensual skin feeling, Karmaflor, a new salicylate with a green, tropical floral freshness, and Ambermax, with tones of cedarwood. The fragrance opens with upcycled bergamot ("vert de bergamot").
THE BEST PERFUMES from ESXENCE 2024 – Natvm Colostrum, Puzzle Lal, Atamayatra Spiritica, Harb's Nuit Festive, Ggema Scarlet, Gini Parfums Shibumi ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
Time to be a fragrance A&R person again and bring you what I thought rocked the most from Esxence, amongst the things I found. Amberwoods were out in force still, for the most part like the end (oh please, let it be the end) years of punk, just a lot of derivative noise, loud costume and no soul. But we waded through it to search for the new sound, hoping for something fresh 'n exciting, or at least an old formula done well. These were the catchiest tunes for me.
Sora Dora's Jovoy Exclusive: Red
Red, Sora Dora's Jovoy Exclusive has a kind of gravitational pull, carrying you into the night with the feeling it gives. Like meeting someone exciting on an evening out, who turns out to have hidden depths and just might be genuine after all. Comparison with Gris Charnel isn't that obvious (I see it sat in the 'reminds me' line-up), and the atmosphere of Red renders GC into a daytime fragrance, a casual acquaintance who can take you or leave you. Red promises — promise.
ESXENCE 2024: EEA & Piazza del Fico from Jupilò ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
It's rare to love every single fragrance a brand offers but to me everything from Jupilo is always a delight to smell. Despite not being a huge leather fan I even enjoyed the new leathers in the Novità 24 collection, Cuorio and Fine Leather, both refined, elegant, excellent works from Christian Carbonnel. Dolcemente was pure, sweet, smiling sunshine from Vanina Muracciole, who also did Fire at Will for Jovoy. Dolcemente smelled like a happier version, brighter and more fun, more explosively joyful.
Pink Tax Pique ~ Columns
I knew the Pink Tax existed for other toiletries, razors and the like. Make it in pink plastic, charge an extra fiver and laugh at the ladies. And women, if they had any sense, twigged and bought the 'mens' version instead. The same, just in a different colour. But it only recently came to my attention there was a PERFUME PINK TAX. Somehow in all my years of perfumery interest and buying, it had passed me by until now.
Scents of England: Bluebells
A fine and subtle spirit dwells In every little flower, Each one its own sweet feeling breathes With more or less of power. There is a silent eloquence In every wild bluebell That fills my softened heart with bliss That words could never tell. – The Bluebell, Anne Brontë. What colour are bluebells? Many of you will be surprised to hear - not actually blue! They err more violet than pure blue, shading from mauve to purple.
ESXENCE 2024: Adscenture
The British manage to be simultaneously associated with old skool conformity and eccentricity, naturally, since you can't have one without the other, they are two sides of the same coin. Presented for the first time at Esxence 2024, Adscenture is a new British niche brand that errs on the eccentric side, founded in London by Holly Hutchinson, whose brand portfolio includes Contradictions in Ilk, Pictor Parfum, Memoize London, and EAU.MG.
ESXENCE 2024: Somens Atlantis
Somens, from brand creator Georgina Ripolles, began life in 2020 with the Reminiscence collection, a vision of a boundless world where all are considered equal, comprising scents linked to past, present, and even future memories, intended to evolve with you throughout your lifetime. Such a wish for a long shelf life is likely to be welcomed by anyone who's felt the sting of discontinuation; whether it will live up to those promises, only time will tell.
ESXENCE 2024: Gio L'Arôme
"El perfume convierte los espacios vacíos en experiencias vívidas". Gio L'Arôme fue creada en 2023 por Georgina Ripolles, creadora también de la marca española Somens. (Gio L'Arôme es su apodo, derivado del diminutivo de su nombre de pila y "L'Arôme" por su pasión por la perfumería. Nacida en 1975, tercera generación de una familia dedicada al diseño y el marketing, concibió la idea de la marca Gio L'Arôme como legado para su hija Sophie.
ESXENCE 2024: Gio L'Arôme
"Perfume turns empty spaces into vivid experiences." Gio L'Arôme was created in 2023 by Georgina Ripolles, also creator of the Spanish brand Somens. (The familial similarity between the two brands' aesthetics is striking.) Gio L'Arôme is her nickname, derived from the diminutive of her given name and 'L'Arôme' because of her passion for perfumery.
ESXENCE 2024 – Consuming Contradictions ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
Metamorphosis was the theme for this year's Esxence, in the sense of perfumery "envisioned as a journey of transformation and natural evolution, starting from the raw materials shaping the fragrance and evolving over time. The olfactory experience offers the possibility of enjoying new sensory emotions, in a scenario of perpetual transformation of the surrounding environment." If that sounds a bit exhausting, just getting there was Kafkaesque. Airport rules - very strict yet... very random.
Cupid's Kiss: All About the Quiver
I admit to being predisposed to liking Cupid's Kiss by Electimuss London, for several reasons. I like the Roman pantheon of gods, who mostly seem to behave like Mafia mobsters, forcing other gods and humans to do things or get stuff for them, for no good reason other than divine whims or wanting favours in return, and for the promo pics, because Canova's Cupid & Psyche is one of my favourite pieces of sculpture.
Interview with Sophie King of Soki London
In November 2022, Fragrantica's Yi Shang introduced the new brand SOKI LONDON, founded by Sophie King, the YouTuber behind the SOKI LONDON perfume channel, who at that time had launched the brand's first Eau de Parfum Intense called Empress. Then in July 2023, Marketa wrote about the second fragrance by SOKI London; Aphrodite.
Electimuss London lanza CUPID'S KISS
Electimuss London lanza Cupid’s Kiss en la Emperor Collection, una nueva fragancia creada una vez más en colaboración con el maestro perfumista Julien Rasquinet. Inspirada en el caprichoso instigador del amor, Cupid’s Kiss se incorpora a esta prestigiosa línea. El amor, la emoción más venerada, nos llega de muchas maneras, en forma de amistad, sentimientos familiares o románticos. Sea cual sea el tipo de amor que nos llega y nos envuelve, una cosa es invariablemente cierta: es complicado.
Introducing Graham & Pott's Knight of the Realm ~ Fragrance News ~ Fragrantica
Knight of the Realm The Call of Valour "Drawing inspiration from the enduring virtues of valour, courage and honour, Knight of the Realm is a neoclassical parfum by Graham & Pott that combines fragrance-making artistry with poised elegance to evoke the Golden Age of Chivalry." - a note from the brand. I feel a Quest coming on.. Who does not want a Knight in Shining Armour?
Electimuss London Launches CUPID'S KISS
Electimuss London launches Cupid’s Kiss into the Emperor Collection, a new fragrance once again created in collaboration with master perfumer Julien Rasquinet. Inspired by love's capricious instigator, Cupid’s Kiss makes a welcome addition to this prestigious line. Love, the most revered emotion, comes to us in many ways, in the forms of friendship, familial or romantic feelings. Whichever kind of love reaches and involves us, one thing is invariably true – it's complicated.
Jimmy Choo Rose Passion: Correct Name Frangipani Love ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
Jimmy Choo Rose Passion. Possibly one of the silliest monikers in perfumery creation, in terms of helpful marketing. How on earth did they decide the name for this one? I'm willing to bet a fair few have bought it imagining they are going to be getting a big rosey frag and have been very disappointed. Or maybe happily surprised, if they like frangipani as well. But, just, why? Did the bottle and the name come first? Then a perfume was thrust upon them.
Meltğ®ğºHeart, Torchğ®ğºWallet...
Ever in need of something to chip away at my heart of stone, Melt MyHeart sounded like a plan. People have written eulogies to this fragrance, and the brand pitches itself at the rich end of luxury, a bit rich for my taste, but...the January sales. I am a sucker for anything half price. I also love iris, and this perfume is billed as a stunning gourmand incarnation of the most rich and expensive orris butter.
House of Cursed: "And so it begins..." ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
"Embrace the shadows." -Cursed Born in the 80s in the UK and forever undead ever since, goth is a phase almost everyone goes through. Tom Ford went through perhaps the best goth phase of anyone, with his FW02 collection for Gucci. But for many, the subculture is not merely the passing fancy of a season, it becomes their lifestyle.
Francis Kurkdjian为Dior设计的NEW LOOK 2024香水
Christian Dior著名的New Look高级定制系列为我们带来了标志性的经典套装Bar Suit，在经历了战时的紧缩之后，它彻底改变了时尚界，以其大胆而出人意料的轮廓重新展现了戏剧性和优雅。现在，迪奥香水创意总监Francis Kurdjian为我们带来了一款大胆的全新迪奥中性香水，对琥珀进行了全新、创新的诠释，突破了琥珀的传统界限。New Look以大胆清新的醛类香气开场，随后展现出乳香的性感一面，基调中的琥珀萦绕，带来奢华的香气。 “New Look不仅仅是一种传统，也不仅仅是一个轮廓，它是一种精神状态，一种看待和重新诠释世界的方式。这种强大的思维方式已经超越了时间。Christian Dior希望迪奥香水成为他的高级定制时装的一面嗅觉镜子，而我正是秉承了他的这一理念，以惊人的胆识努力保持时装与香水之间的完美共生。我希望创造出一款迪奥香水，与当今新形象的精神、细微差别和精髓相呼应。” 迪奥香水创意总监Francis Kurkdjian 关键词 醛类 乳香 琥珀气息 DIOR NEW LOOK 2024将于近期在迪奥Dior官方网站发售，有125 ml和250...
NEW LOOK 2024 de Dior por Francis Kurkdjian
La célebre colección de alta costura New Look de Christian Dior, que nos dio el emblemático Bar Suit, revolucionó la moda tras la austeridad de los tiempos de guerra, reintroduciendo el dramatismo y la elegancia con su silueta audaz y sorprendente. Ahora, Francis Kurdjian, Director Creativo de Parfums Dior, nos ofrece un nuevo y atrevido perfume Dior para mujer y hombre, que introduce una interpretación fresca e innovadora del ámbar, superando sus límites tradicionales.
Dior's NEW LOOK 2024 by Francis Kurkdjian
Christian Dior's famous New Look couture collection, which gave us the iconic Bar Suit, revolutionised fashion after the austerity of wartime, reintroducing drama and elegance with its bold and surprising silhouette. Now Francis Kurdjian, Dior's Parfums Creative Director, gives us a daring new Dior perfume for women and men, which introduces a fresh, innovative interpretation of amber, pushing it's traditional boundaries.
Cacharel Pour L'Homme: The Silver Fox
I have a friend who is a supertaster. This is a slightly confused term, being originally coined by scientist Linda Bartoshuk in the early '90s, as a result of her experiments into the bitter sense of taste. Initially refering to those people who can detect the bitter tasting compounds propylthiouracil (PROP) and phenythiocarbamide, it was at first used to specifically mean only the small subgroup who can sense PROP at very low concentrations.
BEST PERFUMES 2023: Fragrantica Team Favourites
2023 saw a perfume 'influencer' explosion; not really a phenomenon I understand, I don't do a lot of social media, being not very sociable generally, and why "influencer recommended" should be seen as trustworthy I find unfathomable.
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