Taras Grescoe
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Author of Straphanger | Words @nytimes @natgeomag @guardian @wsj | Latest book @lostsupper | highspeed.blog | Talks: www.taras-grescoe.com/contact
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Articles by Taras Grescoe
An Autumn Ride on the Algoma Central Railway
Thank you for signing up—and I mean that. This is a special message for you, because you've taken the time to share your email, making you a passenger aboard the HIGH SPEED newsletter. I should introduce myself. I'm Taras Grescoe, the author of eight non- Paid Members Public I'm so close to riding every passenger train in Canada... Paid Members Public
What Does Quebec's New Government Have Against Trains?
This year, I've pledged to ride every passenger train in Canada, from the White Pass & Yukon out of Carcross to The Ocean, calling at Halifax, for a book to be published by House of Anansi, tentatively subtitled "Twelve Trains that Explain Canada." I'm about 60 percent of the way there, with the Tshiuetin to Schefferville, the train to Churchill, the Algoma Central, and a few others still left to ride.
Welcome to HIGH SPEED, the newsletter of the global passenger rail renaissance!
Thank you for signing up—and I mean that. This is a special message for you, because you've taken the time to share your email, making you a passenger aboard the HIGH SPEED newsletter. I should introduce myself. I'm Taras Grescoe, the author of eight non-fiction books (and counting), and a professional journalist with a lifelong interest in transportation.
I Need Your Help to Get to the End of Steel
I’ve embarked on a mad, wonderful adventure, but to see it through, I’m going to need your help. Over the course of this year, I’ve pledged to ride every passenger train in Canada. That’s right—all of them, from the White Pass & Yukon out of Carcross, to The Ocean, calling at Halifax. It’s not just a lark: I’m working on a book, to be published by the House of Anansi, tentatively subtitled: “Twelve Trains that Explain Canada.” I figure I’m about 60 percent of the way through my mission.
When the Railway isn't the Green Way
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
The Twilight Zones of Passenger Rail
It's a long-running catastrophe. Large parts of Canada have been forsaken by passenger trains, which for generations guaranteed reliable, and affordable, transportation for people of all ages and classes.
Do We Have to Choose Between Rails and Trails?
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Cesta napříč Kanadou rychlostí 50 km/h: Objevte kouzlo vlaku, kde se zastavil čas
Jsme někde východně od Winnipegu, když si uvědomím, že jsem ztratil veškerý pojem o čase. Kymácím se chodbičkami zpět do svého kupé, skrz vůz, kterému personál VIA Rail říká Activity Car, když se mě Carol, veterinářka z Jižní Dakoty, ptá, jestli si nechci sednout s ní a s Trinity z Wisconsinu a zahrát si karty. Seznámí mě s pravidly hry, které se říká King in the Corner. Tu a tam zvednu oči od karet, abych vstřebal scenérii venku: obilné silo kousek od trati, liška klusající přes selské pole.
Straphangers in Berlin
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
This Retro Train May Be the Least Stressful Way to Travel Canada
The 3 Best Beginner Exercises for Super Strong and Muscular Forearms | BOXROX Strong forearms do far more than make your arms look more complete. They help you hold dumbbells, pull from a bar, carry heavy objects, control …
This Retro Train May Be the Least Stressful Way to Travel Canada Original
We’re somewhere east of Winnipeg when I realize I’ve lost all track of time. I’ve been swaying through the corridors back to my room, through what VIA Rail staff call the Activity Car, when Carol, a veterinarian from South Dakota, asks me if I’d like to sit down with her and Trinity, from Wisconsin, to play cards. They introduce me to the rules of a game called King in the Corner.
All Aboard the Nightjet to Berlin
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Up Where the Air Is Clear
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Letter from a Steamy Continent
I'm on vacation with my family in France, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy. (We landed in a canicule, a heat wave: on our first night in Paris, the mercury topped out at 39-degrees C, and it turned out the place we were staying at in Montmartre not only didn't have air-con—it didn't even come with fans.
Catching Up With Toronto
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
A Slow Ride through an Uncanny Valley
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
A Ride on a Tortillard from Quebec City to La Malbaie
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Bogotá Gets Its Metro
by Darío Hidalgo* (HIGH SPEED once again welcomes guest author Darío Hidalgo, who was one of the architects of TransMilenio, the largest bus rapid transit [BRT] system in the world when it opened 25 years ago in Bogotá, Colombia. This time Darío, who I met while researching my book Straphanger, is taking a look at the city's long-awaited metro system, which is due to start running in 2028.
No Regrets
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
A Straphanger in Morocco
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. (No A.I. slop, either!) It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
I Boarded the Wrong Train in Europe—and Discovered This Stunning Route From Italy to Switzerland Original
The first time I took the Centovalli Railway, it was a fluke. I was traveling through Europe, and accidentally boarded the wrong train. To my pleasant surprise, I found myself on one of the most beautiful railroads on the continent, a little-known line linking the remote valleys and villages of southern Switzerland and northern Italy. From inside the compact cream-and-blue carriages, I glimpsed bridal-veil waterfalls, cable cars, and stone bridges arching over deep chasms.
The Panic of '26
The past doesn't repeat. But it does rhyme. So now, I pray you, bear with me / As I tell how 2026 rhymes with 1873. A lot of smart commentators are talking about an Artificial Intelligence bubble, driven by the Magnificent 7—the leading tech companies: Google, Amazon, Tesla, Nividia, Alphabet, Apple, Meta, and Microsoft. These companies are betting the farm on A.I., and the thinking is that's what's keeping markets buoyant.
Little Engine That Could
THE FIRST TIME I took the Centovalli Railway, it was a fluke. I was traveling through Europe, and accidentally boarded the wrong train. To my pleasant surprise, I found myself on one of the most beautiful railroads on the continent, a little-known line linking the remote valleys and villages of southern Switzerland and northern Italy. From inside the compact cream-and-blue carriages, I glimpsed bridal-veil waterfalls, cable cars, and stone bridges arching over deep chasms.
L'avenir est électrique !
Auteur de plusieurs livres, Taras Grescoe est un journaliste montréalais spécialisé en urbanisme et en transport urbain qui donne depuis une douzaine d'années des conférences sur la mobilité durable. Dans son infolettre High Speed (intitulée jusqu'à récemment Straphanger), il raconte ce qu'il observe de mieux et de pire en matière de transport urbain chez nous et lors de ses voyages autour du monde.
Blaise Pascal, l'inventeur du transport en commun
Auteur de plusieurs livres, Taras Grescoe est un journaliste montréalais spécialisé en urbanisme et en transport urbain qui donne depuis une douzaine d'années des conférences sur la mobilité durable. Dans son infolettre High Speed (intitulée jusqu'à récemment Straphanger), il raconte ce qu'il observe de mieux et de pire en matière de transport urbain chez nous et lors de ses voyages autour du monde.
The Best Argument for High-Speed Rail
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on a platform called Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack channels reader money to Nazis, fascists, white supremacists, and the likes of Andrew Tate. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
A Wintry Ride on Train 601 to Jonquière
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee. I want to keep HIGH SPEED going, but to pay that fee and continue doing the research, travel, and writing necessary to keep this up week in, week out, I need your support.
Paris's Bicycle Mayor and the Hormuz Shock
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee. I want to keep HIGH SPEED going, but to pay that fee and continue doing the research, travel, and writing necessary to keep this up week in, week out, I need your support.
We Need Railways, not Runways
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee. I want to keep HIGH SPEED going, but to pay that fee and continue doing the research, travel, and writing necessary to keep this up week in, week out, I need your support.
Not in My Back Forty!
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee. I want to keep HIGH SPEED going, but to pay that fee and continue doing the research, travel, and writing necessary to keep this up week in, week out, I need your support.
Why Your Train is So Slow
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Winter? What Winter?
Last week I crossed Canada, from Vancouver to Toronto, and then onwards to Montreal, entirely by land. It was a 5,000-kilometer journey on two VIA Rail trains, the first being the storied, twice-weekly The Canadian. The second, Train 68, was a much more prosaic "Corridor" train, one of a half dozen scheduled between Toronto and Montreal that day. I'll be writing in much more detail about this journey—and, in this case, the word is apt—in this space at a later date.
Radio Silence from the Transcontinental
Sorry, Toronto and Quebec City, But Your Time Will Come... Paid Members Public A Pioneer Looks Back—and Forward—at a Quarter Century of Bogotá’s TransMilenio Bus Rapid Transit System Paid Members Public
Too Much More
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee.
Waymo Trouble
There are no ads on the HIGH SPEED newsletter, and there never will be. It's entirely supported by readers like you. I publish it on Ghost, because I don't like the way Substack platforms Nazis, fascists, and white supremacists. Unlike Substack, though, Ghost charges an annual fee. I want to keep HIGH SPEED going, but to pay that fee—which I'll need to do early in 2026—and continue doing the research, travel, and writing necessary to keep this up week in, week out, I'm going to need your support.
Montreal and Ottawa, Welcome to the Global High-Speed Club
For much of the twentieth century, Canada ranked as a world leader in both passenger and freight rail. In the twenty-first century, we remain one of the world's freight powerhouses, but we've fallen far behind in passenger rail. With the announcement in February of Alto, a near-thousand-kilometer rail corridor between Quebec City and Toronto, it finally looks like Canada is going to join the thirty or so nations around the world that already have high-speed passenger rail.
Dispatch from Colombia
(This week, HIGH SPEED welcomes a guest author, Darío Hidalgo, who was one of the architects of TransMilenio, the largest bus rapid transit (BRT) system in the world when it opened 25 years ago in Bogotá, Colombia. Today, BRT is part of the public transport networks of 191 cities around the world, and 32 million passengers are carried on 6,000 kilometers of BRT lanes every day. I invited Darío, who I met while researching my book Straphanger, to take a look back at the system he helped create.
A Second Look at Montreal's Light Metro
// There is a lot of movement in the world of Canadian urban transit these days, and that's good news. This week I'm in Vancouver, where the Broadway Subway, a five-station extension of the SkyTrain Millennium Line, is under construction, and is due to open in 2027; Mark V trains, more spacious and with capacity for strollers, bikes, and wheelchairs, have been in service on the Expo Line since August. This week, the Finch West LRT, the first new transit line in Toronto since 2002, finally opened.
Automatic for the People
// On a cold, sunny morning in mid-November, I joined a press tour of the first fully operational line of the REM, the Réseau express métropolitain, Montreal's new light-metro system. Two years ago, the first five stations of the system opened, and I reported on the experience of riding it here and here. That part of the line, which runs from the downtown Gare Centrale to the south-shore suburb of Brossard, has made headlines more for its failures than its successes.
Your Thanksgiving Table Is Missing Something
Today is Thanksgiving, which means a lot of us are getting ready to sit down at tables loaded with food. But the meals we share aren’t just about comfort and tradition—they’re windows into both ancient history and our uncertain future. The flavors of the past may actually hold the key to feeding ourselves tomorrow. is a globe-trotting food writer whose 2023 book The Lost Supper explores how ancient cuisines—from Neolithic bread to Roman fish sauce—can help us solve modern food challenges.
Montreal's New Rail Line Is the Future - Macleans.ca
Now On a balmy evening in June 1996, the back room at Mickey’s country and western bar just outside Montreal was smoky and the music, muted. Surrounded by cronies, the bar’s owner, Gerry Matticks, was in his element, sitting at a large, round table and gesticulating with a tumbler of gin while …
Life After Cars
// I agree with everything Sarah Goodyear and Doug Gordon have written in their new book, Life After Cars: Freeing Ourselves from the Tyranny of the Automobile. And that is precisely the problem. The Brooklyn-based hosts of the popular podcast The War on Cars (named after a campaign-winning whine about cyclists from late Toronto mayor Rob Ford) have written the latest book-length broadside against the empire of the automobile.
Fast and Free
// Big news in the world of North American municipal politics this week. In my hometown of Montreal, exactly what I feared was going to happen, happened. Projet Montréal lost the mayoralty of the city. This came as no surprise to me. After eight years, the charismatic, positive, and popular Valérie Plante announced she wasn't going to run again. When I met Projet Montréal's candidate last month, I knew they were in trouble.
How I'm Going to Vote on Sunday
There's a lot to love about Montreal. Right at the top of the list, for me, is the fact that it's not fancy. Though it's no longer the Cheap-as-Sin City-of-Sin I discovered when I moved here in the mid-1990s, it remains one of the world's most down-to-earth metropolises. Two-thirds of Montrealers are renters; we have one of the lowest rates of car-ownership of any major city in North America; and we take more transit trips per capita than the residents of any other city on the continent.
Who Is this Straphanger Voting for to be Montreal's Mayor?
// In terms of politics, the world has been a dark place, getting darker, for the last decade. Against the background of the sickly collapse into authoritarianism and fascism in the United States, there's been a queasy comfort to living in Canada, where things are...OK, for now. And I've felt particularly lucky to be raising a family in Montreal during this time.
The New French Revolution
// I live in Montreal, where excitement is building about the imminent opening of the second phase of the Réseau express métropolitain (REM). This is certainly the most ambitious urban transit project in Canada, and probably in the Americas: a mostly elevated driverless electric light metro system offering frequent service, with headways of as little of 5 minutes at rush h0ur, to the center and suburbs of Montreal, whose metro area is 4.4 million.
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