"Glad to the Brink of Fear" (about R.W. Emerson) from @PrincetonUPress, "Amazonia," former editor of Harper's, teaching at @nyu_journalism
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Articles by James Marcus
American 777-200 forward / backward seats
Flying American Airlines’ 777-200 in business class means there is a 40% chance the aircraft has seats that face forward and backward – called Concept D. The other seat plan has all forward facing seats. I do not like this. SeatGuru is dead. Aerolopa isn’t very clear. So here’s my own map, so I don’t have to keep looking it up: How will I know which 777-200 I am flying? You won’t. Best strategy is to book a seat that is forward facing below.
Who My Child Was and Would Be
“What do I know about being a woman?” Nat said. “Sometimes I have to ask myself. The thing is, I don’t know shit about womanhood.” It was December of 2019. For most of the previous decade, I had understood Nat as a gay man, his identity blurred only by the erosion of the old rules about sex and gender that had shaped my youth. Now my twenty-six-year-old son intended to become a woman. We were on FaceTime—I in New York, Nat in Berlin. His hair was long, the light of the laptop whitening his eyes.
The Draft of Time | James Marcus
“The life of man is a self-evolving circle, which, from a ring imperceptibly small, rushes on all sides outwards to new and larger circles, and that without end.” ―Ralph Waldo Emerson, “Circles” What is gone is gone always. Or so we tell ourselves, melancholy materialists who have seen the disappearance of so many things we loved: people, objects, eras, ideas. Waldo, of course, was less certain about these matters.
‘Max Hug Time 3 Minutes’ - a Hoax?
An epic story from last year is once again filling my feed. But do the signs really exist?
Train: Brussels → Ghent → Bruges
On a grand tour of Belgium, it’s likely you’ll hop on a train. With cities so close to each other, it’s easy and fast. You’ll want to use the InterCity (IC) trains rather than the InterRegio (IR) trains, the IC trains make less stops. Here are the train travel distances. (See belgianrail.be for exact timetables) Brussels (Bruxelles-Midi / Brussel-Zuid) to Ghent (Gent-Sint-Pieters) = 30 minutes. Bruges (Brugge) to Ghent (Gent-Sint-Pieters) = 25 minutes.
English, French & Dutch City Names
Dutch, French and English are all spoken in Belgium and therefore many cities have more than one official name. Below you’ll find a quick reference for the four most popular cities. Just remember to look up the French and Dutch names of other Belgian cities you’ll visit before your trip, it will help.
Hotel Recommendation in Bruges: Grand Hotel Casselbergh
After evaluating many hotels, we decided on the Grand Hotel Casselbergh Brugge. It’s a 4 star hotel adjacent to Burg Square. The cleanliness scores combined with it’s ideal location made this hotel an easy choice. The Basilica of the Holy Blood and Belfry of Bruges are a stones throw from the hotel.
Frites & Fries
French fries, called frites in Europe, are a culture staple in Belgium. Don’t call them French fries. Friteries, stands dedicated to sell frites, are a very popular. There are many sauces beyond ketchup and most are mayo based. The cooking process is very different than the French fries we know here in America. The results are superior as they always taste fresh because they are twice cooked – first blanched in oil and rested then quick fried when ordered. This ensures a fresh crispy taste every time.
Mussels in Brussels
Mussels in Brussels (moules), not to be confused with Jean-Claude Van Damme who is known as the muscles from Brussels, is the local favorite in the Belgian capital. It’s served in a steam-pot and normally served with frites (moules-frites). Conde Nast says to try these restaurants: RESTAURANT FRANCOIS 2 Quai aux Briques, Brussels (00 32 2 511 6089; www.restaurantfrancois.be). Dating back to 1922, this brightly-lit restaurant has its own fish shop next door.
366 Steps: Belfry Tower of Bruges
If you think the Arc de Triomphe at 284 steps in Paris is a hike, the Belfry of Bruges is 366 steps. The StairMaster machine caught my eye on a recent trip to the gym. The next day I researched step counts of the belfry and a few other attractions from my past travels. That night I simulated the climb up all 366 stairs. It took me 8 minutes, it was brutal. Belfry / bell tower of Bruges
Hotel recommendation in Brussels: Hotel Welcome
Hotels in Brussels book fast, but we were lucky to book a room at the Welcome Hotel in Brussels. It’s a 2 star hotel centrally located in the in the place Sainte-Catherine area, which is about a 9 minute walk to the Grande Place. The hotel features a unique decorating theme in each room and is highly rated for cleanliness.
Basilica of the Holy Blood
Finished in 1157, The Basilica of the Holy Blood (Heilig-Bloedbasiliek, Basilique du Saint-Sang) in Bruges is located in Burg square. It is said to contain the blood of Jesus. Entry to the church is free but entry into the church musuem will cost you €2. You’ll want to plan ahead by seeing the visitation hours here: http://www.holyblood.com/?page_id=96&lang=en If you haven’t booked a hotel in Bruges, the Grand Hotel Casselbergh hotel is in Burg square. It’s BelgiumPlan recommended.
Rue des Bouchers
The infamous Rue des Bouchers street in Brussels is a classic tourist trap of sub-par restaurants. But is it really as bad as they say? The reviewers on TripAdvisor are convinced: The chief complaint is that pushy waiters aggressively try to lure you into their dining rooms. One reviewer remarked “walk thru if you must, but be prepared to be harassed.” Others recommend the street because the speckle is a form of entertainment and the area has it’s own beauty.
The Atomium
If you’re an architecture fan, the Atomium in Brussels, built for the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair, is worth a visit. Mini-Europe is located nearby and tickets can be purchased together for both attractions. Note of caution, the lines can be long during popular days. Some might not think the wait is worthwhile. BelgiumPlan Recommendation: Go at off-peak times (see chart below) or skip the hassle of the daytime and book dinner at the Atomium Restaurant (Le Panoramique) located in the top sphere.
Is this how to over-plan a trip?
A recent story from Humans of New York (HONY) got me thinking. The story goes: “We’re associate financial representatives—assistants, basically. We planned this vacation in the break room for weeks. We mapped out everything. It’s been a very efficient trip. We went to thirty-five destinations. Everything was planned hour by hour. We mapped out our routes, calculated travel times, chose what snacks we would eat, and even included the time we would need to get ready in the morning.
What do they speak in Belgium?
Dutch and French are spoken widely all over Belgium, but in many regions one language is more popular than the other. In the north, the Flemish region (Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp), Dutch is the primary language. In Wallonia, the Southern region (Charleroi, Liège, Namur, Mons), French is the primary language. In the Brussels capital region, French is the primary language. Yellow – Flanders, Dutch Red – Wallonia and Brussels, French. Blue – German
Redeem My Miles/Points? A New Tool Helps
You’ve earned those miles or points, let us help you use them wisely. Our new miles/points calculator tool will answer: Should I use my miles or points? In Easy mode, simply enter the Cost of Ticket (as if you won’t use your miles/points) and then the Miles Needed: Bingo, you’re all set. Access the tool here: https://seat17a.com/should-i-use-my-milespoints-calculator
Eating Abroad: 7 Tips
Dining in a foreign country is intimidating! But you can overcome your fears with our 7 time-tested tips. You’ll see how a little research can change your perspective on dining out abroad. 1. Dine where the locals dine to avoid tourist traps. While it is more likely that the tourist trap restaurants have English speaking staff, the quality of the food is almost always compromised. 2. Research local cuisine. Knowing about the food can really help you practically and with your confidence.
Amsterdam Day Trip
In less than 2 hours, Amsterdam can be reached from Brussels via the Thalys high-speed train. Slower InterCIty trains reach Amsterdam from Brussels in 3 hours and 10 minutes. Departing from Antwerp to Amsterdam is also a possibility via Thalys. Tickets are easily purchased from Rail Europe.
Hotel Recommendation in Ghent: Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof
The Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof in Ghent is a beautiful 4 star hotel northwest of the historic Ghent city center (9 minute walk, 1/2 mile). The cleanliness scores combined with the beauty of the property are compelling. This is a luxury hotel, there are plenty of fantastic hotels in Ghent with less amenities, but we decided to treat ourselves with this pick.
Why I Love Overhead Storage Bins
There are great reasons to carry-on your luggage. I love skipping the hassle of baggage claim and having reassurance that my luggage will make my transfers. The overhead bin is an unsung hero of air travel. It can be frustrating to see others abuse carry-on policies, especially if you board late and the bins are full. Being nice and flexible to the flight attendants can pay off if you find yourself without a bin space for your bag.
Home Alone: Taking 15 Family Members to Paris Is Expensive
This post was originally posted on 12/3/2013 but has since been updated. Last night Home Alone was the movie du jour. The family, 15 in total, travels to Paris leaving Kevin behind as part of the plot. In the movie Rob purchased the trip as a gift for the family, not Kevin’s dad (Peter). As a travel buff, I thought about the planning and cost involved. What an expensive trip! How expensive would the trip be today?
The Safety Burrito
“Are you going to the reception? There’ll be food.” If you have ever been obligated to have a meal at a conference while traveling, it can sometimes be a disappointment. I’ve been subjected to odd buffets, finger foods galore and everything in between. The benefits of free cocktails not withstanding, it’s often too late to grab a meaningful meal afterward. My plight changed after I discovered a new concept I call: The Safety Burrito.
Pretty Woman (1990) Travel Costs: Hotels, Hookers and Limos
In Pretty Woman (1990), Richard Gere portrays businessman Edward Lewis who spends a week enjoying a hooker, fine dining, a luxury hotel and a limo. If that’s your dream business trip, it’s going to cost you. How much would a Pretty Woman style trip cost now and in 1990? Here is our complete trip breakdown in today’s dollars first. This analysis is focused on creating a Pretty Woman inspired trip, as if you were to pay to have the same experiences.
Beer Drinking Through Belgium
Mmmmmmmmm beer. Even if you’re not traveling across Belgium, a trip with your tongue is possible. There is an endless array of beers from Belgium but here are my top 3 safe bets for a good time. Delirium Tremens (10% ABV) – Delirium Tremens was crowned as “Best Beer in the World” in 2008 at the World Beer Championships. It’s named after the medical condition alcoholics experience when they quit drinking and is a golden ale known for their fuzzy pink elephant packaging and logo.
My Travel Origin Story
I fell in love with travel the moment I landed at London Gatwick airport in August 2008. I had sold everything I owned and as a college student that wasn’t much. I saved for over a year. I begged for money in my college graduation announcements. I didn’t know then how much that trip would shape the rest of my life. I didn’t book any hotels in advance. I had no plans for where I was going to sleep the first night or the other nights. I was alone, yet very excited.
“A Year in Champagne”: Movie Travel
A Year in Champagne, now on Netflix, documents the 2012 growing season in the Champagne region of France. I was lucky enough to visit Epernay and Reims in 2015, where the majority of this documentary takes places. The narrative is broken up into the four seasons but takes some side streets along the way on the wars that disrupted the region and the champagne making process. The charming Saint-Chamant, Coquillette, Gonet-Médeville, Diebolt-Vallois, Gosset and Bollinger champagne houses are profiled.
Bad Tourists: Ignoring Signs
Ignoring signage and general stupidity could cause embarrassment, get you in trouble or both, even in your own country (Amsterdam Centraal railway station):
2015: My Year in Travel
2015 was the pinnacle of my travel life. This year, I traveled the most ever by air at 20,163 miles in a single year. It might not sound like a lot, but the Earth is 24,901 miles in circumference. My lifetime mileage by air is now 96,055 miles, 3.86 times around the Earth. I visited many great cities: Orlando, Atlanta, Savannah, Los Angeles, Paris, Epernay, Reims and Calgary. I hit some notable milestones. I visited Disneyland, Disneyworld and Disneyland Paris all in the same year.
Department of Transportation Bans Vaping on Flights
In a statement today: “The Department views its current regulatory smoking ban to be sufficiently broad to include the use of electronic cigarettes; however, the prior rule did not explicitly define “smoking.” The Department took this action to eliminate any confusion over whether its ban includes electronic cigarettes.” “This final rule is important because it protects airline passengers from unwanted exposure to electronic cigarette aerosol that occurs when electronic cigarettes are used...
Flipping Out: Angry at the Eiffel Tower
Many consider the Eiffel Tower to be one of the 7 new wonders of the world. Unfortunately, these travelers on TripAdvisor didn’t agree: The ugliest attraction in Europe I seriously have no clue as to how this ‘attraction’ has 4.5 stars and others dont. Its nothing but a horrid pylon stuck in the middle of a bland part of paris. Its littered with people trying to sell you tat,costs a fortune to get up and offers nothing in terms of satisfaction.
Bread: A Simple Travel Staple
Grab a baguette in Paris. Snag a pretzel in Luxembourg. Buy a sourdough loaf in San Francisco. Bread is the ultimate sightseeing snack between meals. It’s also highly portable. Next time you go for a walk abroad or in your own city, I recommend taking bread with you. Soft, crusty and cheap, bread is truly our friend when we travel. Decorative bread in Paris
Goodbye, Fidel: The Window Dog of Bruges
Fidel, a window-slumbering golden retriever, was a living landmark in the picturesque city of Bruges. It saddens me to hear of his passing. Upvoted wrote a nice story last year if you didn’t know of Fidel. My girlfriend April and I made daily efforts to take the path past Fidel to our hotel, one day I took this photo: Fidel in 2015 from the canal bank, © Seat17A
This Band (Iron Maiden) Has Their Own 747
Luxury travelers be jealous, British metal band Iron Maiden has their own jumbo 747 and it’s piloted by lead singer Bruce Dickinson. The jet is on lease for the band’s 35-country tour beginning this month. Before the 747, they flew a 757 around the world. So why not a Learjet? The band needs to haul their entire stage, audio and lighting system across 6 continents. Iron Maiden plan evolution
Worrying About Cents When You Paid Dollars
You’ve bought that plane ticket ($800), snagged that rental car ($35 a day) and just checked into your hotel ($150 a night). You paid some serious hard earned cash getting there. Now the hotel wants $14 for a cheeseburger. You’re outraged. Your trip isn’t ruined but it might feel that way. We often worry about trivial costs when we paid thousands of dollars to travel. It’s sticker shock, but don’t let it turn into regrets. I went on vacation with another couple.
More Airbus Seating Patents That Make Me Fear The Future
The asinine seating engineers at Airbus are at it again. They’re back with a bench seat concept, which is ideally suited for two fat people or two adults with two children. If riding a park bench at 30,000 feet is the future of flying, I may need a new hobby. Best part?
New Year’s in Calgary
I am sorrrrrry to say that a trip to Canada just never worked out until now. I had been stalking fares to Vancouver (YVR) for months but they never fell under $400. WestJet had roundtrip tickets from Phoenix (PHX) to Calgary (YYC) for $135 USD for New Year’s Eve. I jumped on it. I paid around $50 per seat to upgrade to WestJet’s Plus seating, think of it as Canadian first class on their 737.
Tourists Kill Baby Dolphin For Beach Selfies
Sometimes travelers are on their worst behavior while on vacation. HuffPost reports “a dolphin died after it was taken from the sea and paraded around a beach so tourists could take selfies with it.” Warning, this image might be disturbing: This happened in Buenos Aires with locals, Europeans and other nationalities taking part. Don’t forget to pack your humanity as well as your sunscreen.
Nepal Airlines Sacrificed Two Goats to Help With Technical Problems
The story entered aviation folklore in 2007: In September 2007, the airline confirmed that it had sacrificed two goats to appease a Hindu god following technical problems with one of its aircraft. Nepal Airlines said the animals were slaughtered in front of the plane, a Boeing 757, at Tribhuvan International Airport. The offering was made to Akash Bhairab, the Hindu god of sky protection, whose symbol is seen on the company’s aircraft.
Flipping Out: Crazy at The Colosseum
The Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre ever built. Unfortunately, these real TripAdvisor travelers think the 1,900 year-old building should be condemned: Rather eat ground glass Wait in long lines to buy a ticket, glimpse a view through the throngs, get elbowed by young Asian girls taking 20 pictures of their girlfriend, get run over by tour groups following red flags, I’m bringing my short sword next time.
FreeHand Travel Cup Holder
The FreeHand Travel is a cup holder for your upright rolling bag funding on Kickstarter. This review is based on the concept video and the price, I do not own this item (yet). I am big fan of hands-free travel, in fact it is a major part of my travel philosophy. Still, the FreeHand seems like a novelty and not a serious travel item I will be packing in my bag. The cup holder looks flimsy with a neoprene holder which might not wear well.
TS Travel Backpack Review
The TS Travel Backpack is a travel backpack funding on Kickstarter. This review is based on the concept video, images and price, I do not own this item. Calling this a travel backpack is a leap. The creator is all over the place with purpose. They claim that the backpack is for everyone but dedicate a lot of space to meal storage. There needs to be a reality check here, it’s a product that doesn’t seem to know what it wants to be.
Life is Too Short to Drink Bad Beer
That first sip of Bud Light in one’s life is a milestone often followed by the inquisitive wonder of why people like beer. As teenagers we have to learn how to enjoy beer and its affects. Economics dictate that the quality of beer we try as teens is likely akin to piss water. Life as a beer drinking adult tends to lead down one of two paths: either you become a beer aficionado or the beer you tried as a teenager becomes good enough. Where is the beer education in America?
Is There Snow on the Ground? An Expert Tip
Any weather app can show if it’s going to snow. Finding out if there is accumulated snow on the ground can be much harder. A trip to play in the snow might hinge on having enough snow to play in. Or maybe you are waiting for the snow to clear before planning a trip to buffalo. The Expert Tip: utilize webcams on the Internet to see if there’s snow on the ground. A quick Google search will yield hundreds of webcams. Here is a live view of Vancouver:
The Emergency Frozen Pizza
Coming home exhausted and broke after a long trip, the last thing you want to think about is cooking dinner. Couples have broken up over this topic. That’s why I recommend keeping an emergency frozen pizza in your refrigerator. No matter where I have been on my travels, my dog Ralph and a DiGiorno 1/2 Cheese & 1/2 Pepperoni pizza are waiting for me at home. It can save your life.
Baggage Handler Uses My Bag as a Pillow
Flying out of Phoenix on 3/30/2016 I spotted a baggage handler using my bag and other passenger’s bags as a pillow. The slumbering American Airlines (Mesa Air) employee had a nice nap until a manager woke her up. She then proceeded to load our bags half-asleep by herself. Our flight was delayed on the taxiway near B13 of runway 26 due to a pressurization indicator. I joked to myself that it was probably an incorrectly closed cargo door. The problem was most likely unrelated.
Fargo: 20th Anniversary Movie Trip
Today is the 20th anniversary of Fargo (1996). The epic crime drama/thriller from the Coen brothers seems timeless. If you have ever fantasized about retracing the steps of Marge Gunderson or Jerry Lundegaard, this might be your year. Below I have outlined a Fargo inspired trip. The movie was filmed all over Minnesota and North Dakota. I will focus on an itinerary that is more in the spirit of the movie and not a literal filming-location based trip.
My Stay on the Queen Mary
Ahoy! I just arrived back from a week long trip in Long Beach. My hotel was a ship, the Queen Mary. She’s a tourist attraction and hotel now but in the 1930’s, she was the most luxurious ocean-liner in the world. It was my fortune to come-aboard for 3 nights and attend a conference on her bow. The ship is bigger in real life than in pictures. It’s really hard not to be impressed. Check-in was easy, my room was on A-deck.
5 TripAdvisor Travel Tips
TripAdvisor is the bee’s knees of travel websites. I am hooked, so much so that the thought of using Yelp makes me distraught. Here are my 5 tips to make TripAdvisor an irreplaceable part of your life: There is no quicker way to learn a hotel’s shortcomings. Of course, some people suck and give unjustified reviews but look past that. Rick Steves warns about reading online reviews, he is wrong. Use bad reviews to set reasonable expectations.
Disrespectful Photos at Dealey Plaza
Is it okay to take selfies on the spot where JFK was assassinated? Tourists brave the heavy traffic of Dealey Plaza between car bursts to take photos and selfies. I was stunned to see scores of people taking turns rushing into traffic to do something that felt wrong to me. A man next to me on the sidewalk proclaimed, “I am going next.” He asked if I would take his photo. I told him “no, I am good.” I chose my words in a way I hoped he would think about later.
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