Roland Burrows turned his boat out to sea and said, ”I’ll be back tonight at ten.” At mid-morning, I had a day of bear hunting before me. Up a rocky bank some twenty feet above high tide, fully aware of being alone, I watched him motor out of sight, then turned and studied my location. Southeast Alaska’s mountain-top islands look pretty much the same at shoreline and this cove must be remembered. I looked into a fairyland. Like jackstraws, giant trees lay strewn on the ground and across each other.