Mark Holgate
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Articles by Mark Holgate
Grand Export Is the Berlin Fashion Export You Should Know
The designers Paulina Munzing and Gent Berbatovci previewed their spring 2027 behind Grand Export collection this summer during Berlin Fashion Week in an heavenly 19th century apartment in the city’s Charlottenburg neighborhood, the kind of place that makes you reconsider your housing choices.
One in a Maximilian
By the time you read this, Maximilian Davis, the wunderkind creative director of Ferragamo, will have left his adopted city of Milan for Los Angeles, where he plans to host a dinner tonight in celebration of the Florentine brand’s new boutique on Rodeo Drive. It is something of a homecoming: Salvatore Ferragamo’s very first boutique, anywhere in the world, was in L.A., opening in 1923 as the Hollywood Boot Shop.
Sink Your Teeth In
Glamorous nocturnal creatures—David Bowie and Catherine Deneuve, in hard-edged black tailoring and graphic shades—move through a club looking for sex partners to the pulsing backdrop of British band Bauhaus performing their goth anthem “Bela Lugosi’s Dead.” In the three or so minutes it takes to watch the opening titles of the 1983 movie The Hunger, you’ll understand everything you need to know about this year’s fall fashion.
City of Light
Last week, all I had in my head was one voice. It was a constant, inescapable, go-to-bed-then-wake-up-and-it’s-still-there voice saying, “Run to the light.” It’s not because I am a closet Poltergeist fan (saw it once; frightened the bejesus out of me) but because the first five days of spring-summer 2027 shows in Paris have done nothing but run to the light.
Mark Holgate’s Front-Row Review of London Fashion Week
Call me crazy, but before we get to the clothes of spring 2027 at London Fashion Week, which just wrapped after several days and some very, very good shows—my heart beat that little bit faster at Erdem, Simone Rocha, Tolu Coker, Burberry, and Christopher Kane’s Mulberry debut—we’re going to talk about its cups.
Mode vintage et pièces d’archive : la folie des enchères
Martin Margiela s’est séparé de ses archives au cours d’enchères organisées par les maisons de ventes Maurice Auction et Kerry Taylor Auctions, respectivement basées à Paris et à Londres, le 9 juillet.
Atención, fans de Comme des Garçons y Rei Kawakubo: dot COMME subasta 265 piezas de su épica colección
Comme des Garçons reaparece con su archivo en una subasta: 265 piezas que recorren casi toda la historia de la firma El próximo 15 de septiembre, Octavius La Rosa, más conocido como dot COMME y considerado uno de los grandes coleccionistas de Comme des Garçons del mundo, pondrá a la venta, junto a Kerry Taylor Auctions, alrededor de 265 piezas de su archivo personal. Una selección especialmente significativa dentro de una colección que ya supera los 5.000 diseños y sigue creciendo.
Calling All Rei Kawakubo Fans—dot COMME Is Auctioning 265 Pieces of His Epic Collection
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Ginormous Croissants Are on the Rise in Paris, According to Mark Holgate
There’s a brilliant scene—or rather one of many brilliant scenes—in the new Manchester-set British drama, Tip Toe, a gut-wrenching story of neighborly unlove which is coming to Starz this fall, where the non-binary Melba, dazzlingly played by Paul Rhys, holds forth on what is for them the scourge of contemporary life: “You know what I blame for the downfall of civilization?
Camille Miceli on Reinventing Pucci and Her Perfect Summer Escapes
Camille Miceli is Pucci’s creative director of some four years standing. Actually, “standing” is far too boringly static a term for her. Miceli thinks, moves, and laughs—especially laughs—at a hyper-speed pace. Take our meeting, for instance.
Haderlump Berlin Spring 2027 Collection Original
Little did Haderlump’s creative director Johann Ehrhardt know that when he was a waiter at a hotel, he’d one day end up a designer showing a collection in one. We’re at the Hotel Adlon, perhaps Berlin’s most storied hostelry, which lies in the shadow of the Brandenburg Tor, and sitting beneath 12 enormous chandeliers to see Ehrhardt’s spring 2027 Haderlump collection.
Ioannes Berlin Spring 2027 Collection
I don’t know how you say fourth-floor-walk-up in German, all I know is that I am climbing a staircase to one. It’s for the presentation of the spring 2027 Ioannes collection: Salon 01, a sinuous, spiraling tale of monochromatic jersey, lace, and washed silk, which is being held in designer Johannes Boehl Cronau’s apartment in Berlin’s Mitte neighborhood.
Richert Beil Berlin Spring 2027 Collection
“I am going to bid on the ceramic panties.” Edward Buchanan, designer, editor, and one of the loveliest people in fashion, and I are looking at slate gray ceramic underwear which is currently having oil drip-drip-dripped onto it by an antique pipette. “That’s 135-year-old dust,” said Richert Biel’s Michele Biel of the grime covering this old piece of lab equipment.
Buzigahill Berlin Spring 2027 Collection
“Bobby! Bobby! Bobby!” There was quite the rapturous roar coming from backstage as everyone filed out after the Buzigahill show. The Bobby being feted was designer Bobby Kolade, the man behind the Kampala-based womenswear and menswear label Buzigahill.
Marke Berlin Spring 2027 Collection
Marke’s Mario Kleine might be in the thrall of the past, yet there’s something about his menswear that is absolutely rooted in the present. The softer, gentler, more fragile notion of tailoring that was the story of the recent run of European men’s shows? The Koln-based Kleine has been doing that for seasons now, infusing it with poeticism and lyricism along the way.
Andrej Gronau Berlin Spring 2027 Collection
Andrej Gronau needed a holiday; like, really needed a holiday. Yet no break was in sight, and the young designer, who’s living between London and Berlin—nomading, as someone put it to him backstage after his show—didn’t get much sympathy when he mentioned it to his family. “Why do you have to go on vacation?” one of them said to him, he recalled, laughing.
Undercover Spring 2027 Menswear Collection
The subtly disturbing work of Belgian artist Michaël Borremans was first hung in Jun Takahashi’s gallery for Undercover’s fall 2015 womenswear show: the one with the rictus-grin masks. A year later, Takahashi brought the artist back into his menswear for fall 2016. This season, the triptych was completed with Poisonous Plants, a collection named after the beautiful still lifes of close-to-death botanicals that appeared across its garments.
When Sheila Rock Photographed Siouxsie Sioux at the Height of Her Post-Punk Powers
Sheila Rock didn’t think she was going to create some of the most iconic images of the singer Siouxsie Sioux, but fate had other plans—and those images can now be seen in a new book: Siouxsie, Exposures, A Photo Shoot, 1982. It was late 1981, and Rock—an American photographer then living in London, whose work documented a city deep in the vortex of life during and after punk—happened to see a new collection from the label Johnson’s, designed by her friend Lloyd Johnson.
골든구스, 베니스 비엔날레서 동화 같은 몰입형 전시 공개
이탈리아 브랜드 골든구스(Golden Goose)가 베니스 비엔날레 기간에 로스앤젤레스 기반의 크리에이티브 스튜디오 플레이랩(Playlab)과 몰입형 설치 프로젝트 ‘포레스트 포 더 트리즈(The Forest For The Trees)’를 공개하고, 이를 기념하는 특별한 디너 파티를 열었습니다. 베니스는 도시 자체가 하나의 거대한 몰입형 공간처럼 느껴지는 곳입니다. 올해 제61회 베니스 비엔날레 오프닝 위크에도 이 같은 ‘몰입’ 감각은 주요 이슈로 떠올랐죠. 마리나 아브라모비치(Marina Abramovic)의 퍼포먼스부터 조던 로스(Jordan Roth)가 16세기 예술가이자 뮤즈였던 이레네 디 스필림베르고(Irene di Spilimbergo)로 변신한 공연까지, 도시 곳곳이 예술적 경험으로 충만했습니다. 여기에 골든구스와 플레이랩이 선보인 ‘포레스트 포 더 트리즈’ 역시 또 하나의 인상적인 프로젝트로 이름을 올렸습니다.
This Iconic Paris Nightclub Is Reopening as an Uber-Stylish New Hotel
What is it with rock music and hotels? They make for the unlikeliest of bedfellows. One is about turning the volume way up; the other is obviously—hopefully—about decibel levels so low that you can sleep. And yet, they just can’t seem to get enough of each other, from London’s Portobello Hotel to Los Angeles’s Chateau Marmont, via the Chelsea in New York.
Bvlgari Ushered in The Venice Biennale with Two Art-Filled Aperitivo Celebrations
Forty-eight hours in Venice during the opening days of the 61st Biennale Arte and you realize pretty quickly that the city runs on two things at this time of year: Seeing the art that’s on show—and the aperitivo; that golden hour when the day stops and the cocktails begin to flow, and, well, don’t ever really stop.
Golden Goose Unveiled The Forest For The Trees by Playlab Inc. with a Whimsical Dinner Party in Venice Original
As cities go, Venice is the very definition of immersive. No wonder, then, that immersion was a recurring theme during the opening week of the city’s 61st Biennale—from Marina Abramovic’s 12 Years of Ulay at the Cukcarna Gallery to Jordan Roth’s stunning performance channelling 16th century artist, musician, and society beauty Irene di Spilimbergo in the Palazzo dei Fiori. We can now add the experiential work dreamt up by the renowned Los Angeles creative studio Playlab Inc.
The Highlights From 080 Barcelona Fashion Week
Doblas. Photo: Courtesy of Barcelona Fashion Week Barcelona was all about numbers for me: It was my first time in the city, and thus my first time at 080 Barcelona Fashion, though it was in fact the 37th edition of the week. My number one thought was curiosity, because I arrived in this fantastic town without much knowledge (OK: almost none) as to what I’d see.
For a “Shoe Salesman,” Neil Kirk Sure Did Take Glamorous Photos
Neil Kirk, the British fashion photographer who so memorably captured the world in motion and suffused it with emotion, particularly in the 1980s and ’90s, did something very telling whenever he was asked what he did for a living. “Neil would say he was a shoe salesman,” remembers his wife, the stylist Vivienne Kirk, laughing.
Richert Beil Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
Well, I don’t even know where to begin about the Richert Beil show, the latest from the label designed by creative and life partners Jale Richert and Michele Beil. It might be one of the most bizarre—in a good way—shows I have ever been to, and God knows I’ve seen a few. Maybe it’s best to start at the beginning, with an email a few days earlier asking for dietary restrictions (no meat, please) and clothing size (I’m tall, so, um, XL?).
Kenneth Ize Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
Kenneth Ize didn’t need a mood board for his fall 2026 collection, because the collection itself is a whole mood, and that mood is joy. It was certainly evident from the minute the clothes appeared; chicer than chic, elegantly lean tailoring, sometimes deconstructed, or a study in contrasts between the front and the back, with Ize yet again making wonderful use of the traditional Nigerian woven fabric aso oke, all shimmering, vibrant color, something he has long incorporated into his clothing.
Sia Arnika Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
We will get to Sia Arnika’s dual temperature fall 2026 collection in a minute, which was one of her very best, in the sense that it was both cool and hot at the same time, what with its cinched jackets exploding with volume, sporty bodysuit dresses with train backs, and slinky, bias-cut floor length skirts.
Haderlump Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
When you’re a designer, you never know when inspiration might strike. Take Johann Ehrhardt of Haderlump, for instance. Little did he realize that when he agreed to help a friend of his move to Leberstraße 65 in the Schöneberg neighborhood of Berlin that his fall 2026 collection would fall into place. Berlin-wise, it’s a pretty iconic address: the birthplace of Marlene Dietrich. “I stood in front of the building, and thought, ‘This is awesome,’” recalled Ehrhardt.
Andrej Gronau Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
As someone who loves to be at home, lives to be at home, dreams of getting to (and not ever leaving) home, Andrej Gronau’s Fall 2026 collection touched me, not least because it was a wonderful reminder that home is really where the heart is.
Marke Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
The signature poeticism of Marke was evident before we’d even seen as much as a single stitch of clothing at the label’s fall 2026 show. Marke founder and designer Mario Keine had decorated the runway with piles of antique books, some of which had been left lying open, and roses so faded and aged that they’d become newly beautiful, the blooms as timeworn and fragile as the pages of the books.
Lou de Bètoly Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
It’s moments after Lou de Betoly showed her terrific fall 2026 collection—another of her odes to the body and what happens to it when you let it interact with lingerie, embellishment, and yarn, all rendered with couture-esque technique—and she’s pondering the question of what inspired her to make it. “I have to say something,” said de Betoly, laughing, “and it’s that sometimes I feel like I am repeating myself.
Ioannes Berlin Fall 2026 Collection
And we’re back: To a snow-laden Berlin for its fall 2026 fashion week, and, if the first day’s Ioannes show is anything to go by, to the 1990s. Hard-edged minimalism shaded black, brown, or ivory. Lean jackets and even leaner bootleg pants with seams snaking around the body. Coats in shaggy shearling or what was called back in the day ponyskin except it wasn’t, it was leather made to look just like it. Skinny cardigans straining to do up. Miniscule bras as tops.
Fashion History for Sale! Mouna Ayoub Is Selling Her 126-Piece Dior Haute Couture Collection
Mouna Ayoub wears a look from Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring 2022 couture collection at the 77th Cannes Film Festival. Dominique Charriau By the end of day on January 29th, Mouna Ayoub, the Lebanese businesswoman, real estate titan, and major, major haute couture client, will have some 126 fewer pieces (from full looks to bijoux) in her sizable collection, all of it Christian Dior.
Somewhere Over the Rainbow (on West 17th Street), You’ll Find NYC’s Most Delightful New Vintage Store
I am standing in Surrender Dorothy, the recently opened (and still very under-the-radar) vintage store and much more at 13 West 17th Street in New York, but wondering where on earth I really am.
What Sold in 2025-According to the Independent Boutiques Across the US Where Women Are (Really!) Shopping
What sold in 2025—the clothes, the looks, and the designers who mattered—polled from 13 independent stores from across America reveals something interesting (and encouraging): Coast to coast, women are buying, wearing, and loving the work of women designers.
McQueen Resort 2026 Collection
For Seán McGirr's cool—and accomplished—McQueen resort collection, all razor sharp tailoring, heiress portrait necklines, and tartan, he looked to the images of British society photographer Dafydd Jones, who regularly shot for posher than posh Tatler magazine.
Saint Laurent Resort 2026 Collection
Anthony Vaccarello understands an awful lot about Saint Laurent after designing the label for a near-decade now—how time flies when you’re having fun and turning out rocking collections. But maybe the thing he gets most is that YSL is, and always has been, about the tension that arises between oppositional forces. It’s masculine vs. feminine, hard vs. soft, restraint vs. excess, couture vs. the street, and the decorous vs. the indecorous.
Introducing the New Man at Balmain: Antonin Tron
Antonin Tron is the new Creative Director of Balmain, effective this month following the departure of Olivier Rousteing, whose impressive 14-year tenure saw the French house’s revenues grow ten-fold.
Antonin Tron, Balmain’in Yeni Kreatif Direktörü Oldu
Haftalık E-Bülten Moda dünyasında neler oluyor? Yeni fikirler, öne çıkan koleksiyonlar, en vogue trendler, ünlülerden güzelllik sırları ve en popüler partilerden haberdar olmak için haftalık e-bültenimize kaydolun.
Introducing the new man at Balmain: Antonin Tron
Image credit: Yedihael Antonin Tron is the new creative director of Balmain, effective this month following the departure of Olivier Rousteing, whose impressive 14-year tenure saw the French house’s revenues grow ten-fold.
Balmain宣布新任創意總監Antonin Tron，前任設計師的「極繁主義」恐成歷史？
Antonin Tron正式成為Balmain新任創意總監，此任命自11月起生效，接替Olivier Rousteing離任後的職位。過去14年，Balmain在Olivier Rousteing的領導下，營收成長了十倍，堪稱品牌的一段傳奇歷史。那麼，Antonin Tron能續寫這段傳奇嗎？ 繼續閱讀 現年41歲的Antonin Tron是巴黎品牌Atlein的創辦人與設計師，該品牌自2016年成立已十年，以精湛的手工垂褶技術與針織布料的立體雕塑剪裁聞名。正如《Vogue》主編Hamish Bowles曾在2016年九月號雜誌報導中讚譽道：「他對布料的掌控與Alaïa不相上下。」Atlein的設計語彙同時注入了對女性特質的深思與尊重，靈感常源自女性主義、性別與環境理論，及文學與藝術創作。Antonin Tron預計於2026年3月的巴黎時裝週推出他的Balmain首秀。 「Balmain 擁有令人深受啟發的歷史傳承。」Antonin...
Chi è Antonin Tron, il nuovo direttore creativo di Balmain che succede a Olivier Rousteing
Antonin Tron, nuovo direttore creativo Balmain: chi è lo stilista che scriverà il nuovo capitolo della storia di una maison che per 14 anni si è identificata con la visione di Olivier Rousteing Antonin Tron è il nuovo direttore creativo di Balmain, a partire da questo mese, dopo l'addio di Olivier Rousteing, il cui impressionante mandato di 14 anni ha visto il fatturato della casa francese crescere di dieci volte.
Balmain ya tiene nuevo director creativo: Antonin Tron
Antonin Tron es el nuevo director creativo de Balmain, a partir de este mes, tras la marcha de Olivier Rousteing, cuyo impresionante mandato de 14 años multiplicó por diez los ingresos de la casa francesa.
Ο Antonin Tron είναι ο νέος Creative Director του Balmain
Ο Antonin Tron είναι ο νέος Creative Director του Balmain, ξεκινώντας από αυτόν τον μήνα μετά την αποχώρηση του Olivier Rousteing, του οποίου η εντυπωσιακή 14ετής θητεία οδήγησε τα έσοδα του γαλλικού οίκου να δεκαπλασιαστούν.
Introducing the New Man at Balmain: Antonin Tron
Antonin Tron is the new Creative Director of Balmain, effective this month following the departure of Olivier Rousteing, whose impressive 14-year tenure saw the French house’s revenues grow ten-fold.
As artist Greer Lankton is celebrated in a new book, Nan Goldin remembers her friend
In a new book, Nan Goldin celebrates the life and work of Green Lankton in a new book. “I think her work is some of the most honest work ever in the art world,” says Nan Goldin of Greer Lankton, who's celebrated in a new book, Could It Be Love.
As Artist Greer Lankton Is Celebrated in a New Book, Nan Goldin Remembers Her Friend
All products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links. Could It Be Love (Magic Hour Press) is the first monograph of the American artist Greer Lankton, which is co-edited by archivist Francis Schichtel, publisher Jordan Weitzman and artist Nan Goldin, with the artist’s own images of her work, accompanied by an essay from Hilton Als.
Presley Oldham Launches a Home Collection as Magically Evocative as His Jewelry
Even as Presley Oldham was lugging a 40-pound bag of moss onto the set of a photoshoot for his debut home collection, he was still thrilled to begin revealing the latest iteration of what he’s doing.
Sam Penn and Max Battle’s New Exhibition Offers an Intimate Look at Love
Sam Penn’s 19 exquisite images of herself and her partner, writer Max Battle, in a new show, “Max” (New York Life Gallery, November 6 through December 20), will gladden your heart. Bathed in the kind of light that only seems present when you’re with the one you adore, this is a show all about love, closeness, yearning, and, yes, intense sexual attraction; these might be some of the most emotionally resonant and deeply personal images I’ve seen in the longest time.
Dara Zine Is Just What We Need Right Now: A Joyful Celebration of Friendship
“It all started when we used to call each other and jokingly say, ‘Can you do Dara Zine?’ or ‘Are you free to do Dara Zine?’” Photographer Cruz Valdez is telling me about the, well, zine that she and the stylist and model Dara have just published. Dara Zine is a testament to a lot of things over the course of its 44 glorious pages—a kinetic and gorgeous romp of style, pose, attitude, humor, warmth, and, maybe most of all, friendship, all shot by Valdez and starring only Dara.
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