LOS ANGELES — When I was young in France, sweetbreads were considered a health food. The thymus and pancreas glands from veal are sweet and creamy. They are served crisped, sometimes with a lemon and caper sauce, or with a veal demi-glace, and, to my preferences, with almonds. Liver, brains, sweetbreads, tongues, and animal genitals all used to be common offerings on old restaurant menus—indeed, my grandfather used to pickle beef tongue, and always ordered liver with onions or a calf’s foot.