Gewurztraminer can be like Lady Gaga—flamboyant, captivating, drama as karma. That, anyway, is what many Alsace gewürztraminers are like. But a new style is beginning to emerge—cold coastal California gewurz. It’s bone dry, cooler in temperament and lighter, crisper, with more mineraly. It isn’t about perfume. It’s more like an ocean breeze—saline, fresh, invigorating. Among the pioneers of the exciting new style is Stolo, a small family-owned estate on the Pacific coast.