The first thing anyone tells you about Shenzhen, the city in southern China that borders Hong Kong and has a population of at least 12 million, is that it was once a sleepy fishing village. As with its neighbor, which began British colonial life as an unpromising rocky outcrop in the South China Sea ("Albert is so much amused at my having got the island of Hong Kong," wrote Queen Victoria in 1841, of her imperial bauble), the tale of an unpromising beginning emphasizes the vast distance traveled.