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Laura Waters paddles from ocean to source on the Noosa River in southeast Queensland, leaving behind a glitzy coastline for a wild environment of rolling sand dunes, mirrored waters and Australia’s own Everglades Erica Hamp squints into the morning sun towards the river mouth, taking in the wind, the tide, and the way they play on the maze of sand drifts and shallow waterways. She’s plotting a route for us, applying her years of experience paddling here.
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