Maite Aramayo

www.thevanillaissue.com —

sugarlesscoat.com — Gorpcore. I totally hate how that word sounds. I blame Covid for this because any word followed by "core" has inevitably fallen into the abyss sooner or later (thankfully). Over the past five years, "core" trends have been a goldmine for brands looking for quick sales—"Barbie-core? Uuu, let's make everything pink!"—but the latest menswear obsession that refuses to fade, to my surprise, is "gorpcore."

sugarlesscoat.com — Did you know that the first collection Lee McQueen designed for his brand after leaving Givenchy was about clowns? Classic Lee McQueen, right? After being awarded Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards and leaving Givenchy in October, the first collection he designed was all about scary clowns. A lot of people forget about his Merry-Go-Round Fall/Winter 2001 collection, which still feels incredibly relevant today—especially in light of what’s happening in the world. You know, creative directors getting fired, employees in fashion losing their jobs, this crazy economic slowdown. While some fashion brands are fighting hard to rebrand themselves in a moment of unprecedented stagnation, others are just trying to keep the attention of their current clientele by lowering production. So talking about this specific McQueen collection isn’t just an archive nostalgia call—it’s a reminder that fashion is cyclical, and right now, the cycle looks exactly like Merry-Go-Round Fall/Winter 2001: filled with scary clowns and golden skulls.

sugarlesscoat.com — Here we are on Instagram, gossiping and speculating about who’s getting fired next, which unfortunate soul will take over, and who will be burdened with the almost impossible task of fixing a system that was already failing. What’s even more baffling is that the top management of luxury houses still believe they can fix everything just by swapping out creative directors. They refuse to hold themselves accountable, ignoring the fact that consumers aren’t buying into their commercial strategies anymore. People aren’t stupid. There’s a broader crisis happening—not just in fashion but across industries. Changing creative directors won’t suddenly convince middle-class luxury consumers to start spending again, because their priorities have shifted.

sugarlesscoat.com — Duran Lantink just dropped his new campaign starring none other than Alex Consani, and she's wearing this glamorous shorts with a red glamorous period pad.

sugarlesscoat.com — A new era of Gaga is in the works, and she’s closer to dropping Mayhem—literally.

sugarlesscoat.com — Kidsuper’s latest show had the fashion world buzzing, and for good reason. The entire performance felt like a scene from Dune—yes, it was that chilling. Colm Dillane, the creative mind behind Kidsuper, channeled a cinematic, otherworldly energy that was deeply reflected in the pieces from his FW25 collection. It wasn’t just a runway show; it was a whole mood. Colm has always had a very unique and specific vision when it comes to design, and this collection is no exception. As I watched, I couldn’t help but notice how much it felt like an extension of his previous collaboration with Louis Vuitton menswear for FW23. His signature hand-drawn details were front and center, and we’re starting to see him lean more into technical ski outerwear—a trend that’s been picking up speed in recent years. But here’s the thing: Colm was ahead of the game. While everyone is just jumping on this ski-tech vibe now, he’s been exploring it since 2023.

sugarlesscoat.com — Sacai’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection challenges conventional notions of seasonal fashion with a runway scene set of desert dunes. At first glance, it might seem contradictory to pair the imagery of a desert with a winter collection. But if you’ve ever experienced a desert winter, you’ll know it can get bone-chillingly cold. This unexpected contrast yet entirely logical—is the ethos of Chitose Abe’s vision for Sacai.

sugarlesscoat.com — During Paris Fashion Week, Willy Chavarria’s latest collection stands as a bold, disruptive representation of Chicano culture, asserting its rightful place in the global fashion scene. At a time when anti-immigration policies, like those enacted by President Donald Trump, cast a long shadow, Chavarria’s work serves as both an act of rebellion and a celebration of heritage. With immigration raids and deportations reshaping communities, the designer’s creations are more than just garments; they are a voice for the marginalized, a visual anthem of resilience, and a statement of cultural pride.

sugarlesscoat.com — Kiko Kostadinov is pushing boundaries, and in the best way possible. With his latest FW25 menswear show, he’s crafted an atmosphere that feels almost cinematic in its intensity. Imagine walking through a dark, autumnal forest, surrounded by dry leaves crunching beneath your feet, the air crisp and cold—so cold, in fact, that it looks like the models had spent the night outdoors in frigid conditions before making their way down the runway. The only thing missing here was the fog—just imagine how it would’ve added to this ethereal gritty mood. But perhaps it’s not the fog we need to focus on; what matters is the intensity of the show itself. Kostadinov has fully committed to a visceral, raw vision, and the result is nothing short of magnetic.

sugarlesscoat.com — f you’ve been keeping tabs on Ye (and his wife Bianca Censori’s wardrobe—or lack thereof), you’ve already seen hints of what YZY womenswear could look like. Bianca’s sheer tanks, gravity-defying tights, and barely-there fits feel like a precursor to whatever vision Ye is cooking up. Say what you will about her outfits, but it’s a look. And maybe, just maybe, Ye is onto something here.

sugarlesscoat.com — The Lemaire Men’s FW25 collection didn’t just show us clothes—it showed us what it means to truly understand style. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran have done it again, reminding us that real simplicity doesn’t need to be branded as “quiet luxury” or twisted to fit a trend. Lemaire’s approach is timeless, grounded, and a masterclass in how to do fashion right. Lemaire doesn’t try too hard, and that’s exactly why it works. This collection feels like a love letter to those who move through life with effortless cool—people who can throw on a perfectly tailored coat or an oversized knit and look like they just walked off work (like some people in fashion I know).

sugarlesscoat.com — Take this. Compare the PFW Men's calendar to the Men's MFW one. Huge difference, huh? While Men's PFW is already filled with shows, the MFW Men's calendar has very few runway shows to cover compared to last year.

sugarlesscoat.com — Trans-seasonal, quality-driven, and rich—emphasis on rich. The Row is the only celebrity-owned brand currently leading a significant portion of the fashion market, positioned in 9th place among the hottest brands after bigger names like Loewe and Miu Miu, according to Lyst. But what makes this brand different from Phoebe Philo’s old Celine or other inspirations, such as Martin Margiela’s Hermès archives? The answer lies in ignoring trends and pop culture. By removing the faces of the two founders from The Row’s image, the brand has characterized itself as logo-free, celebrity-image-free, and, most recently, social media-free for the past two seasons.

www.sugarlesscoat.com — Two words: CULTURE and PROVOCATION. These past few years have felt a bit confusing, to be honest. In fashion, we've been drowned in micro-core fashion trends but mostly immersed in the ephemeral, the highly commercial gimmick, and the basicness of quiet luxury. In music, we've been inundated with hi

sugarlesscoat.com — The fashion industry has transformed significantly, emphasizing sustainability and cultural innovation, with Issey Miyake's legacy highlighting the importance of personal expression and responsible practices in future-ready brands.

sugarlesscoat.com — Nothing is more exciting than Disneyland-at least in a "I'll buy you a princess costume" kind of way. But in fashion? That's just a throwback to 2019's Gucci x Disney. And yet, here we are, ready to play the Disney card in 2024 after Coperni's SS25 show and the viral Disney t-shirt snagged from Vinted.