There are no grand native forests, no mountains, no shops, no nightclubs, no cellphone reception, nothing you could call a restaurant. Most of the homes are modest or scruffy, and the views from the road for much of the journey are commonplace. There are fine beaches, but only down corrugated side roads. And they are not what you might call family-friendly beaches. No cosy little bays with lapping wavelets here. They are vast open sweeps of sand where the surf booms and hisses.
