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Georg Rafisch, “headless,” 2015 / Flickr When I lived in the Trastevere neighborhood of Rome, I made a point of stopping in San Francesco a Ripa whenever I was running errands. The church houses Bernini’s masterpiece L’Estasi della Beata Ludovica Albertoni. Light and shadows passing through the high hidden chapel windows change throughout the day, and they place the Blessed Ludovica in communication with the city outside as well as with the heavens.
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