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Articles by Words Ethan Price
Healing a Messy Separation
The American designers trying to bring their fashion closer to the planet “Topographically the country is magnificent – and terrifying. Why terrifying? Because nowhere else in the world is the divorce between man and nature so complete.” The Air-Conditioned Nightmare, Henry Miller’s 1945 memoir, written on his return to his country of birth (after a decade as an expat in Paris) was “a loaded gun to the head of America”.
Clothes Are Baggage
Investigating four fashion archives and the emotional power of second-hand threads Sitting outside Bar Italia, I see a boy wearing a saucy little outfit. Girl, like a Courtney Love costume (rumpled icy-pink camisole, fishnets). Boy, like a guy Lana Del Rey would write a song about (fur-trimmed hood, cigarette held between forefinger and thumb, cargo shorts). Then — Clark Gable moustache, loafers, old Hollywood Brylcreem hair, purple tartan waistcoat. It’s all over the place. Bonkers.
Mad the Hatter
Madeline Thornalley of Hurtence explains why the most audacious, absurd hats provoke the greatest emotions Hats are pure fantasy. You can do whatever you want when designing a hat. Disregard bodies and their damn shapes and measurements. Bulging, being difficult, never how you want them to look. Trying to illusion up a wasp waist, or shoulder and chest architecture for Canary Wharf top dogs. None of that matters. But hats – they don’t even have to fit the circumference of the head (fascinators!).
A Sticky Weekend
Ethan Price reflects on Martine Rose’s inherently political and celebratory SS24, at a time of national turmoil A heatwave – it’s dangerous but sexy. Perfect weather for the Martine Rose man. Fitting, also, that this Spring-Summer 2024 collection from Rose feels like both a celebration and a warning. Two states of feeling that rarely collide but are absolutely encapsulating and engulfing the present moment. Everyone seems both terrified and hedonistically jubilant at once right now.
Hunter
Sandra Romboli – global design director at the iconic brand – reflects on its past, present and future To me, Hunter is Glastonbury. It’s Kate Moss with sun-bleached knotty hair, tiny denim shorts (shorter than the boho leather belt she’s wearing with them), tanned arms, smudged eyes, accessories dangling from everywhere. (Pete Doherty also dangling somewhere.) It’s mud. It’s sun. It’s rain.
QASIMI Rising
In conjunction with the Sharjah Biennial, the fashion label announces the winners of its talent incubator programme A “coming together” of the art and fashion worlds. Not a collision. That was the aim for curator, artist and director of Sharjah Biennial, Hoor Al Qasimi, when creating QASIMI Rising, the new talent incubator for emerging fashion designers. But fashion and art are like red and green. They clash at best, but crash, often.
Dress Carnivalesque!
Reflecting on the grotesque and absurd in the world of fashion, as well as the uninhibited brilliance of Leigh Bowery Down to clown, a few weeks ago I attended the opening of Horse Hospital’s exhibition DRÔLE — a trippy collection of artefacts from the world of clownery. Big shoes aplenty. Lurid silky jumpsuits, very high hats. Glorious.
An Up-Hill Cycle
The next generation of sustainable fashion designers Sillage: it’s a word used in perfumery to describe what is left behind when you walk by. The impact — it’s what keeps people talking when you leave the room. In fashion, making an impression is everything. A good outfit should “change the way you walk; change the way you see yourself in car windows,” Central Saint Martins graduate Alec Bizby tells me.
Pleasures and Terrors of Fashion
Ethan Price reflects on Knock Knock, the fashion exhibition recently curated by Felix Choong Style is a weapon. Deployed through the clothes we wear and how we decorate our domestic environment, it can annihilate. It’s psychological warfare. We deny, conceal, exhibit — in order to define and exaggerate our strengths and superiority, or our defects — whatever is most useful at the time.
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