Zucchini’s pros — its neutral flavor, high water content and ubiquity — are also its cons. That neutral flavor could be boring, or it could be a thrilling blank canvas for sauces, toppings and whims. Its moisture can make for some soft, soggy zucchini, or it could add juiciness and tenderness. And that it’s everywhere, growing like weeds in fields and heaped at grocery stores, can be overwhelming or an opportunity. Let’s choose to bring out its best, every time.