Cellestine Olilo

The priest approaches the altar slowly. His back remains turned to the congregation. Latin chants float through the sanctuary. Women cover their heads with veils. The faithful kneel to receive Holy Communion directly on the tongue. No one claps. No one raises their hands. No one dances. Inside Holy Cross Catholic Church in Nairobi's Lavington neighbourhood, worship feels less like a modern Sunday service and more like a journey into another century.

On a recent trip to a sports bar along Ngong Road, I ordered a cider and settled in to watch an English Premier League match between Arsenal and Manchester City. A cold drink while watching a live match alone is one of my greatest pleasures. For two hours, everything else fades into the background. But that evening, a group of men arrived for the much-anticipated matchup: Liverpool and Nottingham Forest.