Chelsea Archer

In the high-stakes culinary Thunderdome that is New York’s power-dining scene, it’s notoriously difficult to predict which promising contenders might burn hot and fizzle, and which will maintain a steady boil. But the The Grill, set to reopen next week in the legendary Four Season’s space, is as close as you’ll find to a sure thing.

It used to be that securing that coveted table at the hot restaurant was enough. Now L.A. haunts like E.P & L.P., Cecconi’s and recently opened Vinoteca in the Four Seasons Beverly Hills are gifting celebrities and Hollywood insiders literal keys that offer figurative membership in a secret society and unlock secret off-menu items, entry into private tastings and one-on-one mixology classes, among other perks. "It’s something very personal," says Matt Huhn, Cecconi’s guest relations manager.