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Articles by Dan Berger
U.S. vs. Them Wine
The difference between American and other wines cannot be summed up in one or two sentences. Except for the one you are now reading, broad generalizations usually fail. This came to mind recently when a woman said she wanted to learn a little more about wine and asked if I could generalize about the differences between Californian and European wines. Her question was simple to answer. All I had to do was say, “No.” That is, no, I couldn’t generalize.
Wine in a Can
Wine in a can remains a potentially fascinating category for the wine industry, but thus far it has made almost no impact in wine lovers’ repertoires. The current slowdown in this country’s sale of wine has been attributed to several drawbacks. One is the difficulty some people have opening a wine bottle. Industry people told me 20 years ago that the use of screwcaps on fine bottles of wine eliminated the antipathy some corkscrew-averse consumers rarely admitted.
Wine in a Can
The current slowdown in this country's sale of wine has been attributed to several drawbacks. One is the difficulty some people have opening a wine bottle. Industry people told me 20 years ago that the use of screwcaps on fine bottles of wine eliminated the antipathy some corkscrew-averse consumers rarely admitted. Such folks were pleased with screwcaps.
Wine Woes
The California wine industry is suffering from losses on multiple fronts. Most casual wine consumers, those who purchase a bottle now and then, consume a glass or two and keep the remainder in the refrigerator for days, may not be aware of some of the troubles the industry is facing. It starts with the fact that since 2020, about the time that COVID-19 had such a devastating impact on the world, a lot has happened to negatively impact sales of wine throughout the United States.
Wine Woes, by Dan Berger
Most casual wine consumers, those who purchase a bottle now and then, consume a glass or two and keep the remainder in the refrigerator for days, may not be aware of some of the troubles the industry is facing. It starts with the fact that since 2020, about the time that COVID-19 had such a devastating impact on the world, a lot has happened to negatively impact sales of wine throughout the United States.
Sonoma Winery to Close Tasting Room as People Drink Less
Sonoma is far from the only winery that has been hit by changes in consumer preference. By Ella Chakarian Los Angeles Times After two decades in the business, Passaggio Wines is joining the ranks of California wineries forced to end operations. “After 20 incredible years in the wine business, I’ve made the very difficult decision to close the Passaggio Wines tasting room at Jack London Village at the end of October,” owner Cindy Cosco said in an Instagram post last week.
Euro-Wine Decoder
Several historic wine regions around the world, like Spain, Italy, and France, produce fine wines that carry only the name of the district from which they come. These are often referred to as place-name wines and savvy wine consumers are usually excited by them. Most know what to expect when they see just the regional name. In most such regions, the name of a grape variety indicates a lesser quality wine. Almost all red wines that come from France’s Burgundy district are made from pinot noir.
Wine South
Wine lovers looking for a dramatic departure from domestic winery visits should seriously consider making a trip to the Southern Hemisphere, especially Australia and New Zealand. This is quite a commitment in time and money, but anyone who has ever longed to visit either nation or both should consider carving out leisure time and immersing in something fascinating. Southern hemisphere wines are special.
Wine South, by Dan Berger
Wine lovers looking for a dramatic departure from domestic winery visits should seriously consider making a trip to the Southern Hemisphere, especially Australia and New Zealand. This is quite a commitment in time and money, but anyone who has ever longed to visit either nation or both should consider carving out leisure time and immersing in something fascinating. Southern hemisphere wines are special.
Bottle Sizes
Ultra-heavy bottles are a relatively new phenomenon. Decades ago, almost every California winery used standard sizes of bottles, most of which weighed less than 3 pounds when filled. A case of wine, 12 bottles, weighs less than 35 pounds. I’m not sure when this began to change, but in the last 30 years, bottles have become so heavy that they pose an environmental hazard. People have begun to get the idea that the heavier the bottle, the better the quality of the wine they are getting.
Bottle Sizes, by Dan Berger
Decades ago, almost every California winery used standard sizes of bottles, most of which weighed less than 3 pounds when filled. A case of wine, 12 bottles, weighs less than 35 pounds. I'm not sure when this began to change, but in the last 30 years, bottles have become so heavy that they pose an environmental hazard. People have begun to get the idea that the heavier the bottle, the better the quality of the wine they are getting. Of course, there is no truth to this.
Wine List Woes
Some wine connoisseurs dislike dining out due to the poor quality of wine served at restaurants. Two couples I know, who do not know each other, coincidentally confessed recently that they do not like cooking at home and prefer to dine out whenever possible. Or they buy prepared foods at a deli. One of the people said, “I have better wine in my cellar than just about any restaurant around here. And my wine has been perfectly stored.
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet franc grows beautifully in France’s Loire Valley, where it became popular with French kings who built summer castles in that region. One of the world’s greatest wine grapes is cabernet sauvignon, a variety native to Bordeaux, where it produces some of the finest wines ever made. The variety can make a wine that lasts 30 or 40 years and still delivers character. This variety does have a few drawbacks, however.
Cabernet Franc, by Dan Berger
One of the world's greatest wine grapes is cabernet sauvignon, a variety native to Bordeaux, where it produces some of the finest wines ever made. The variety can make a wine that lasts 30 or 40 years and still delivers character. This variety does have a few drawbacks, however. It is relatively astringent and can produce red wines with copious tannins, which can be gritty on the tongue and bitter in the aftertaste.
Wine Price Fluctuations
If you like wine as I do, you know that it can become expensive. I enjoy at least one glass of wine per day. I love wine and I like it in a dozen different formats, as I find that even the oddest of them represents a unique opportunity. If you like wine as I do, you know that it can become expensive. So, most of the time I seek bargains. In deciding to investigate this topic, I discovered that the pricing of wine is unbelievably difficult.
Wine Price Fluctuations, by Dan Berger
I enjoy at least one glass of wine per day. I love wine and I like it in a dozen different formats, as I find that even the oddest of them represents a unique opportunity. If you like wine as I do, you know that it can become expensive. So, most of the time I seek bargains. In deciding to investigate this topic, I discovered that the pricing of wine is unbelievably difficult. Let's look at a few of the factors: — Worldwide, beverage consumers have turned their backs on wine in the last three years.
Look for Bargains
Before the downturn, prices for French Champagne had slowly crept above $60 per bottle. Now, some shops offer them for $40. Partially as a result of consumers discovering alternatives to wine, including low-alcohol or alcohol-free wines, sales of wine throughout the country are at their lowest level in 18 years. The U.S. wine industry has been through sales declines on a cyclical basis—just about every 20 years.
Look for Bargains, by Dan Berger
Partially as a result of consumers discovering alternatives to wine, including low-alcohol or alcohol-free wines, sales of wine throughout the country are at their lowest level in 18 years. The U.S. wine industry has been through sales declines on a cyclical basis — just about every 20 years. And it almost always cures itself when people begin to realize that wine is better than it has ever been, both domestic and imported.
Translating Labels
Foreign languages creates problems for Americans who are unfamiliar with imported wines’ place-naming system. Approximately four bottles of wine out of every 10 sold in this country are from overseas. When they come from Italy, France, or Spain, some of the better wines are not easy to identify. The reason for this is that in several countries the name of the district is all that is needed, not the name of the grape.
Translating Labels, by Dan Berger
Approximately four bottles of wine out of every 10 sold in this country are from overseas. When they come from Italy, France or Spain, some of the better wines are not easy to identify. The reason for this is that in several countries the name of the district is all that is needed, not the name of the grape. The law allows many wines to carry geographical data; the name of the grape variety isn't required. In fact, using the grape's name actually suggests that the wine is not of high quality.
The wine bar
One popular way to experience several wines without buying a dozen bottles is to pop into a well-run wine bar, but that calls for it to be operated with intelligence. Alas, most of the places I've visited fail the condition "well-run." The pitfalls are many and can be expensive. For one thing, some wine bars don't serve small tastes for a smaller fee, such as 3-ounce servings. Ordering full glasses might be expensive, especially if you don't like a wine. Small pours educate.
The Wine Bar
When attending a wine bar, I always ask when a bottle was opened—and I watch the face of the server. Sometimes they defer to the bartender. One popular way to experience several wines without buying a dozen bottles is to pop into a well-run wine bar, but that calls for it to be operated with intelligence. Alas, most of the places I’ve visited fail the condition “well-run.” The pitfalls are many and can be expensive.
Wine Chronicles: California Wine Learns a New Vocabulary
Summary: California wine is undergoing a shift as younger drinkers look beyond cabernet and chardonnay toward lesser-known grapes and unfamiliar styles. Dan Berger examines the risks wineries face when responding to changing tastes, recalling past fads such as moscato while pointing to renewed interest in grapes that include chenin blanc, picpoul, vermentino and blaufränkisch.
Ready to Drink
Using flavor enhancers like peach, tangerine, blackberry, and strawberry, many RTDs are essentially alcoholic soda. Freixenet, based in Spain, is an extremely successful Cava (sparkling wine) producer. Its bubblies are widely available nationally. Bonterra, based in Mendocino County, is a producer of fine-quality, organic wines that regularly win awards for quality at wine competitions.
Wine Chronicles: When Wine Gets Too Perfect
Summary: Dan Berger explores how the pursuit of clarity, polish and consistency can strip wine of the regional character and personality that make it distinctive. He examines common cellar practices, from fining and filtration to additives such as gum arabic and Mega Purple, and questions when intervention begins to undermine authenticity. Berger also traces his changing view of natural wine, finding that producers have grown more attentive to flaws while preserving individuality.
Sauvignon Blanc Is Hot
The wine changes slowly and can be fascinating when it reaches an extra two years in the bottle. In spite of the fact that there is so much wine in the world that wineries everywhere don’t know what to do with it, one grape variety seems to be in such high demand that grape prices are rising, and consumers may experience shortages of their favorite brands. Sauvignon blanc is that wine, and its current success is quite a turnaround from decades ago when almost no one paid any attention to it.
Wine Chronicles: How Meritage Gave California Blends a Name
Summary: California winemakers had long understood that cabernet sauvignon could improve when blended with merlot, cabernet franc and other Bordeaux varieties, but labeling laws made those wines difficult to sell as premium bottling. Joseph Phelps Vineyards helped break the pattern with Insignia, a proprietary name that freed the wine from the generic “Red Table Wine” designation.
Afternoon Brief, August 4
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Meet Sonoma’s Newest Wine Region
Fountaingrove is one of the newest AVAs in Sonoma. Its real meaning to consumers will become evident only after more of its wines are seen. More than 70 years ago, on May 3, 1956, a musical opened on Broadway called “The Most Happy Fella.” It changed the fortunes of the entire U.S. wine industry in a curious way.
New regulation puts foreign journalists and a free press at risk
; ; ; Continue reading More for You ; ; ; Continue reading More for You
New regulation puts foreign journalists and a free press at risk Original
On July 17, 2026, the Department of Homeland Security issued a new regulation that dramatically restricts foreign reporters’ ability to work independently in the U.S. The new rule, which takes effect in 60 days, would enable the U.S. government to reward favored journalists and punish perceived opponents; invite other countries to retaliate against American reporters abroad; and signal broad distrust of the press at a time when journalists already face deadly targeting.
Keep on Trocken
Some people adore chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc has become very popular. Rose wines have an increasingly loyal following and sparkling wines are selling as well as any refresher. During the hottest days, cooling beverages are an absolute joy, from soda to iced tea, from beer to iced coffee to fruit- flavored preparations that are intended to be tasty while they hydrate the body. Despite all the popularity of other liquids that are usually chilled, my favorite potable is Riesling.
What does the new duration of status rule mean for international students and workers?
On July 17, 2026, the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) published a regulation that ends a longstanding U.S. government practice called “duration of status.” Duration of status or “D/S” historically allowed international students, scholars, physicians, and other specific types of temporary visa holders to remain lawfully in the country while they complete their program or degree.1 The DHS regulation replaces that flexibility with a new discretionary extension application.
Wine Glut
Not only are bankruptcies and winery closures becoming commonplace, but very slow wine sales are also changing the face of domestic production. The last time we had a major oversupply of wine, 25 years ago, only about 20 percent of the wine sold in the United States was imported. Today, that figure is about 40 percent and experts are saying it will grow. 7/14/2026|Updated: 7/14/2026 In five decades of reporting on the wine industry, I have seen the cycle so often I can now nearly predict it.
Ask Questions
The least patrons can do is to validate that the wine they ordered is what they wanted. When ordering wine by the glass, ask to see the bottle. 7/7/2026|Updated: 7/7/2026 After looking at the wine list and realizing that most selections are too expensive, you finally settle on a compromise. It was made by a winery you’ve heard of, and the price is not excessive. But are you certain that the wine you get is the one that’s on the list? Restaurant pricing of wine has become ridiculous.
Governor’s disrespect for clemency process extends mass incarceration
More than a year into his term as governor, Bob Ferguson has not granted any clemencies. His refusal to do so is a dangerous continuation of mass incarceration and disrespects the state’s own process for acknowledging rehabilitation. And a growing number of people are sounding the alarm. Doug Baldwin, the former Seattle Seahawks wide receiver who was appointed to the state Clemency and Pardons Board in 2022, discussed the problem in a recent interview with KOMO News.
Collecting Wine
Most of today’s domestic wines don’t have the staying power to improve. Of the several dozen cases of old wine I still have, almost all of it is in perfect shape. This has been proven over and again whenever I open a bottle—and marvel at its youthful exuberance and remaining fruit and complexity. 6/30/2026|Updated: 6/30/2026 Wine collectors are often a target of derision by people who consider it silly to have a bunch of wine in a dark closet, under the bed, or in a basement. I know the feeling.
Collecting Wine, by Dan Berger
Wine collectors are often a target of derision by people who consider it silly to have a bunch of wine in a dark closet, under the bed, or in a basement. I know the feeling. I began collecting wine in the late 1970s and several friends thought of me as strange. Today have some very old, mostly red wines that have been sitting around for decades. Well, lying around is a better way to put it. Most older red wines should be aged on their side to keep the cork moist.
Wine ‘Additives’
Wine today, whether it’s from the United States or a place you have never heard of, is better than it has ever been. The use of gum arabic, sometimes called guar gum, a byproduct of Acacia trees, helps to deal with bitter tannins in astringent red wines. It is also widely used in the production of many foods.
Wine 'Additives', by Dan Berger
Anti-alcohol people who would like to see a reinstatement of prohibition occasionally suggest that wine is little more than chemicals added to grape juice before or after it's fermented. They like to argue that the U.S. government permits chemicals to be added to wine. Which is partially true. But almost no "additives" are in the final product. A few are used during the processing of wine, but most of them are filtered out before the wine reaches consumers.
Days of Wine and Raptors at Mexico’s El Cielo Resort and Winery
Long shadows are spreading across the vineyards of the El Cielo Resort and Winery, setting its terra-cotta villas aglow. Cassiopea eats lunch on the author's arm at El Cielo Resort and Winery in northern Baja California, Mexico. 6/21/2026|Updated: 6/21/2026 The sun is beginning to set over northern Baja California’s Valle de Guadalupe—the Napa Valley of Mexico. Long shadows are spreading across the vineyards of the El Cielo Resort and Winery, setting its terra-cotta villas aglow.
Learning About Wine
Where the grapes grew usually contributed something more interesting to a wine than just what the grape variety was. More seasoned wine drinkers can pick up on the subtle changes in wine. 6/16/2026|Updated: 6/16/2026 My first exposure to fine wine occurred around 1973, when I took a UCLA extension course vaguely titled Wine Education, and I was fortunate to have some background in the subject.
How Reactionary Zionists Became the New Birchers
Society / June 16, 2026 How Reactionary Zionists Became the New Birchers We are seeing a kind of modern-day John Birch Society with Zionist characteristics. I call it the Jonah Birch Society. Ad Policy Anti-Defamation League CEO Jonathan Greenblatt. (Tasos Katopodis / Getty Images for ADL) The University of Washington Jewish Alumni Association is a new kind of alumni group. It isn’t raising money or providing continuing education.
Learning about Wine, by Dan Berger
My first exposure to fine wine occurred around 1973, when I took a UCLA extension course vaguely titled Wine Education, and I was fortunate to have some background in the subject. The instructor, a jolly West Los Angeles wine collector whose name was John, had no guidelines from the extension studies office, so he wrote his own syllabus. And it was obvious from the first class that he expected much more of most students.
Speaking Power to Power
Mass incarceration and the corporate-led consolidation of media ownership are entwined assaults on U.S. civic life. And for prison journalists, working within the overlap of these developments, one led by the government control and one driven by private profit, the result has been a dramatic change to their lives and vocation. Six companies now own 90 percent of U.S. media, and conservative elites have openly inserted their ideological commitments into the media they own.
Stale Views, by Dan Berger
A "shelf talker" is a slip of paper or a card with a few words that describe the wine sitting on the shelf or in the box that retailers hope will entice people to buy it. One such shelf talker long ago said that a particular wine had received a gold medal in a major wine competition. A friend who was the man who ran that competition knew that this was a falsehood. A prior vintage of that wine had received a gold medal, but that was four years earlier! This particular wine had not yet been made.
Wine Quality Improvement
Good wine is getting better. And this has nothing to do with improving the grapes or the techniques that wineries use. The winemaker knows which of those barrels contains the best wines—and which barrels contain lesser-quality wine. If less wine is required, the wine that is bottled comes from the best barrels.
Wine Quality Improvement, by Dan Berger
With wine sales as slow as they have been in two decades, most of the industry news recently has been about the hardships wineries are facing as new wine consumers seek alternative products. Although much research has been done in the area of making better quality, lower-alcohol or zero-alcohol wines that seem to be in demand from younger consumers, not much in a practical sense has resulted in breakthroughs in this area.
The Case for Wine
Wine is a complex discipline that entails farming (botany and plant physiology) and fermentation science (chemistry and microbiology). When Robert Mondavi founded his iconic winery in the Napa Valley in 1966, it marked a resurgence of interest in fine wines. When Robert Mondavi founded his iconic winery in the Napa Valley in 1966, it marked a resurgence of interest in fine wines.
The Case for Wine
When it is abused, the alcohol in some beverages can cause enormous problems for society, as was evident in the years before the imposition of prohibition in 1920. During that 13-year dry period, Americans learned some of the drawbacks of prohibition and that led to its repeal in 1933. After prohibition ended and until the mid-1960s, very little fine wine was produced here. One reason was that wine science was halted at the start of the dry era and it took decades for it to resume.
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