The Intercity Express train service from Brussels reduces speed as we approach our destination on the banks of the Rhine – Koln. I scoop up the last piece of Belgian chocolate cake that I have been savouring since we crossed into Germany and prepare to disembark. A short time later, I’m embraced by Australian ex-pat Chris Lupton on platform 46 at Cologne Central Station. Chris, an old friend who lives in nearby Dusseldorf, is ready to show me some of this ancient city.