As the line from outside slowly streams in, more orders fly out of the kitchen, bringing the lightness, brightness, colour and punch of Mexican street food to life: Black Angus brisket suadero, wagyu beef soujouks, shiitake-truffle tostadas and bowls of Baja-style battered tofu with pico de gallo. Dinner here – the restaurant is open from 3pm Friday to Sunday, and from 5pm Tuesday to Thursday – feels like an exam to be passed. Flour or corn tortilla?