Rutin is a tiny, determinedly informal restaurant in a wiggly backstreet of Istanbul’s Beyoğlu. It translates as “routine,” but this strikes me as being a misnomer for what is in many ways a puzzling establishment. Far from being humdrum, Rutin appears to be out on a limb, almost defiant in avoiding being slotted in any well-established genre. For a start, Rutin does not go out of its way to impress.