The cityscape of Lisbon, Portugal. ISTOCK When you hit the cobblestones at the bottom of the hill, it feels like the fillings might shake loose from your teeth. There’s a thud, a bounce, a sideways slide, then we lurch forward as our three fat tyres finally find some traction on a road surface designed in the 8th century for horses and donkey carts. A warm wind whips in through the sides of our comical wee chariot.