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Articles by Hannah Provost
All About Bolts: From Federal Policy, to a Day of Local Rebolting with Ryan Kuehn
This episode is all about bolts. From the nitty gritty of yanking a bad bolt out of the rock at your local sport crag, to the big-picture policies that govern the practice of bolting, rebolting and other fixed anchors on America’s federal public lands.
Sasha DiGiulian: Slinging Cacti, 8b Big Walls, and Recognizing Your Spot in Climbing History
Sasha DiGiulian has done major ascents on big walls from Madagascar to Brazil to El Cap. She has told the story of these ascents in the American Alpine Journal—and now in the all new American Climbing Journal. With this unique perspective as a contributor to these journals of record, we asked her to weigh in on her history with the AAJ and ACJ, and why documenting climbing’s evolution matters.
Belaytionship Therapy: Tools for Better Climbing Relationships
What can you do if you and your romantic partner constantly bicker at the crag? How do you speak up if your climbing partner has a totally different risk tolerance than you, and you keep getting in way over your head on climbs because of that mismatch? What if one of your climbing partners dropped you, and you can’t quite trust them again? How do you move forward if you’ve witnessed an accident, and nobody seems to be understanding how the trauma continues to live in your mind and body?
Climber Behavior and Attitudes: A Look at the Data
What percent of climbers THINK they always observe safety practices….vs. actually do? What are the unique risks for indoor climbers? Are climbers even interested in training, and is the training equipment climbers use reflective of what the climbing media loves to yap about? Has who climbers are—the demographic make-up of climbing—changed much in the last 7 years? Do indoor climbers even want to climb outside? What are the most popular disciplines of the sport, indoors and outdoors?
Undercover Crushers: Brother-Sister Duo Vasya and Nadya Vorotnikov
In this episode of Undercover Crushers, we talk to AAC members Vasya Vorotnikov and Nadya Vorotnikova about how exactly they crush so hard. While Vas isn’t totally undercover, he isn’t as well-known as he deserves. He’s a quiet phenom, having sent Jaws II in 2007 after the original climb Jaws, going at 14b, broke. The new version, Jaws II, was the second 5.15a in the United States.
Austin Mallet's Secrets to Building Momentum
The AAC has launched a new grant, called the Momentum Grant, to fund intermediate to advanced alpine adventures, with a focus on ice, mixed, rock, and ski-alpinist objectives. The Momentum grant is in partnership with the family of Austin Mallet, in honor of Austin. Austin was a Texas native who developed a deep passion for big mountain objectives, but whose time was cut short by a tragic avalanche in 2024.
Ask Me Anything, Prescription Edition: Stacked Rappels and Old Cams
In this episode, we sit down with THE dynamic duo Pete Takeda and Jason Antin. Pete and Jason recap and expand upon the climbing accidents featured in the January and February Prescription, the AAC’s monthly dose of accident analysis from our annual book, Accidents in North American Climbing. Then, they answer audience questions that stemmed from their original analysis.
A Team Sport: The Psychology of Caregiving After A Climbing Accident — American Alpine Club
Part of the Climbing Grief Fund’s (CGF) mission is to expand the conversation around grief, loss, and trauma in the climbing community, and interrogate narratives that can be unhelpful to healing. In this episode, we unpack some of the unique challenges faced by caregivers after a loved one gets into a climbing accident, and explore why it can be helpful for caregivers to get mental health support too, not just those directly impacted by an accident.
(Not So) Undercover Crusher Evan Hau: On Showing Up and Trying Hard — American Alpine Club
Evan Hau is a pro climber, but most Americans still don’t know his name. He’s the first Canadian to climb 5.15a, and swears his success comes from consistently honing his strengths (and mostly ignoring his weaknesses). In this episode, we chat about how he balances pushing his limits, with his tutoring business, and the process of climbing his first 15a, Sacrifice.
Tales from Red Rock's Risk Mistress: Joanne Urioste — American Alpine Club
Joanne Urioste is a powerhouse in Red Rocks climbing history, and we had her on the podcast to share stories from her recently published memoir, “Collages of Rock & Desire.” Her book is a detailed catalogue of the climbing legacy she shares with her husband George Urioste, including the creation of iconic multi pitch climbs like Epinephrine, Levitation 29, A Dream of Wild Turkeys, and many others.
Stay Frosty: The Rescue Matrix, with Pete Takeda and Jason Antin — American Alpine Club
You’re in the thick of it. An accident just happened while you were out climbing, and now you have to decide: do I self-rescue, or do I call for outside help? In this episode of the podcast, we dive into that moment of decision, and provide a series of questions that you can use as a matrix to help you decide what to do next. Our guests, Accidents Editor Pete Takeda, and IFMGA/AMGA Guide and Search and Rescue volunteer, Jason Antin, weigh in.
Outdoor Alliance: Roping Up For Recreation Advocacy — American Alpine Club
In this episode of the podcast, we are celebrating the recipient of the AAC’s 2025 David Brower Conservation Award: Outdoor Alliance. Outdoor Alliance is the only organization in the U.S. that unites the voices of outdoor enthusiasts to conserve public lands and waters. OA advocates and amplifies the voices of recreationists to help ensure those lands are managed in a way that embraces the human-powered experience.
Suffer Well: A Climbing (and Life) Philosophy, with Kelly Cordes — American Alpine Club
Every year, the AAC bestows awards to climbing changemakers and celebrates their accomplishments at the AAC Gala. We’ll be announcing those award winners in mid July, but first, we wanted to give our listeners a sneak peak into the stories awaiting you, through diving into the life and personality of one awardee.
2025 Climbing Accident Trends: What the Data Tells Us — American Alpine Club
It’s that time of year again–the AAC has invited the editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda, to hop on the pod to chat about emerging trends in climbing accidents. This year, we’re also delighted to have a conversation with Dr. Valerie Karr, a professor at UMASS who has stepped in to help us with a massive data analysis project. Valerie used grounded theory analysis to parse through 20 years of accidents data—picking out patterns in how human behavior contributes to accidents.
Hand Holds: The Many Cruxes of Parenting and Climbing — American Alpine Club
In this episode we have Allyson Gunsallus on the podcast to talk about an under-discussed part of the climbing community—the joys and struggles of parenting and climbing. Allyson recently produced Hand Holds, an educational film series now free to watch on Youtube, which cover a range of topics, from shifting identities, logistical challenges, and new relationships to risk as a parent and climber.
A Tribute to Virginia Boucher — American Alpine Club
Virginia Boucher May 26, 1929 – March 9, 2025 It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.
Drowning at Altitude: A Nepal Rescue Story — American Alpine Club
In this episode, we talk to AAC member, alpinist, and ski mountaineer, Maddie Miller, about a Nepal trip gone wrong–what she hoped was going to be a level-up in her climbing career, turned into a medical evacuation. At 16,200 feet, Maddie started experiencing signs of the extremely life-threatening medical condition HAPE, or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema.
What Happens to Crags After a Wildfire?
Every few minutes the helicopters whirred overhead, back and forth, bringing loads of water to quench the wildfire that burned in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon. I was cat-sitting for my friend whose apartment sat right at the mouth of the canyon, separated from the Goltra Fire only by a highway and a river. By all reports, the wildfire was smoldering, not raging, along the south-facing hillsides that flanked the canyon’s mouth, but I knew wildfires could flare up in an instant.
What Happens to Crags After A Wildfire?
Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app. Every few minutes the helicopters whirred overhead, back and forth, bringing loads of water to quench the wildfire that burned in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon. I was cat-sitting for my friend whose apartment sat right at the mouth of the canyon, separated from the Goltra Fire only by a highway and a river.
Hannah Provost Archives
As wildfires increasingly affect crags around the world, we explore how best to approach the burnt stone.
CLIMB: Undercover Crusher Connie Shang — American Alpine Club
On this episode of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Connie Shang on the podcast to talk about her recent send of Spyfiction, a 5.14c in Mt. Charleston, Nevada. We discuss her projecting process, how she’s leveled up over the years, how she got so strong without training, what counts as a crusher in today’s climbing world and especially for women’s climbing, and plateaus on the moonboard.
A Long and Winding Road: An Update on the EXPLORE Recreation Package — American Alpine Club
By: Byron Harvison, AAC General Counsel and Advocacy Director First ascents are usually full of surprises. That’s why we love doing them. It takes every bit of your skill and experience to navigate all the known and unknown challenges the route throws at you. Like a FA, the first-of-its-kind EXPLORE Act Recreation Package is presenting challenges and proving there is more work to put in.
“This Must Be The Place…”: A Story from the Gunks — American Alpine Club
By Marian (May) Perez A place I look forward to getting to, another place I call home. I sometimes drive through local roads outside of New Paltz, most of the time I drive up the thruway from New Jersey to go upstate. Jamming to my favorite tunes on repeat with joy or crying my heartache away from emotional pains.
CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Nathan Hadley — American Alpine Club
On this edition of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Rab athlete Nathan Hadley on the pod.
CONNECT: Summiting Denali, Living the Dream — American Alpine Club
In this episode, we had Live Your Dream grant recipient John Thompson on the pod to tell us all about his trip to Denali! Our Live Your Dream grant is our most popular grant, and it’s powered by The North Face. John’s LYD story is about feeling a sense of urgency–how now is the time to explore and pursue big adventures. A strong sense of carpe diem.
PROTECT: Amity Warme and a YOSAR Climbing Ranger Weigh In on The Yosemite Credo — American Alpine Club
Its another Yosemite episode! And with some of the most in-the-know climbers, pro Amity Warme and Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey, who weigh in on what’s been happening in Yosemite, both climbing wise, and in terms of community discussions about the future of climbing ethics and style there.
Protect: First Ascents, Ground Falls, and the AAC Rescue Benefit in Action — American Alpine Club
In this episode, we sit down with Jarod, a long-time AAC member, to discuss a crazy accident he had at his home crag in Missouri, and how he utilized the AAC’s rescue benefit to cover the cost of his medical expenses. If you’ve been wondering if the AAC’s rescue benefit is for you, Jarod’s story helps explain how it works.
The Climb that Inspired the Novel that Inspired the Climbs: The Many Stories of the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc — American Alpine Club
By: Katie Ives Each book in the American Alpine Club Library is a portal to another world—of golden spires feathered with rime, fluted snow beneath indigo skies, or red-granite aiguilles above a sea of ice. Beyond these worlds, there are countless layers of other worlds encountered by readers inspired to seek their own adventures and return with their own tales.
Educate: Search and Rescue Helicopter Evacuation in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison — American Alpine Club
This year, the featured winner of the Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award is the Black Canyon Search and Rescue team, who performed an incredibly technical rescue in 2023 in the Black Canyon, after a climber took a bad fall that left them unconscious, needing medical attention almost 2,000 ft down into the canyon.
EDUCATE: The Climbing World's Best Books about Accidents and the Cutting Edge — American Alpine Club
This year’s editions of Accidents in North American Climbing and the American Alpine Journal are off to the printer! We had the editors of these world-renowned books on the podcast to discuss all the details of what goes into making these books: including how stories get selected, the challenges of investigating how accidents happen, how these books fit into the larger climbing media landscape, and the long history of these books.
AAC Submits Comment on Proposed Bears Ears Climbing Management Plan — American Alpine Club
On March 8, 2024 the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service (USFS) opened the public comment period for the Bears Ears National Monument Draft Resource Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement, notably impacting the world-renowned climbing of Indian Creek, UT. The BLM and USFS held open-house style public meetings with opportunities to speak with resource specialists, as well as provided virtual meeting options to attend.
EDUCATE: The Untold Stories of Sherpas, Baltis, and other Local Climbers in the Greater Ranges — American Alpine Club
In this episode, we cover the untold and complex experience of local climbers in the Greater Ranges—how Sherpas, Baltis, and other local climbers have navigated the complex landscape of living near and working on Everest and in the Karakoram.
CONNECT: Inside the Life of a Climbing Photographer — The American Alpine Club
Note: This episode is explicit. In this episode, we had adventure photographer Jeremiah Watt on the pod to talk about all things climbing photography.
CONNECT: Mo Beck on the Impact of Adaptive Climbing Fest, and Retiring from Competitions — The American Alpine Club
Adaptive Climbing Festival (ACF) is crafting a shift in adaptive climbing. Not only is it easier than ever for a person with a disability to TRY paraclimbing, but through ACF, there are also now more opportunities to build skills and depth in the paraclimbing community, deepening the knowledge and expertise that adaptive leaders can use to empower future generations of adaptive climbers.
CLIMB: Katie Lamb Dives Deep on Her Send of Box Therapy, and Losing Anonymity — The American Alpine Club
In 2023, Katie Lamb sent Box Therapy. It was a definite level-up for her personal climbing, and with this ascent, she became the first woman in history to climb a boulder that many consider to be V16. Her landmark send made waves, and that’s why she is a finalist for the AAC’s Climb of the Year Award.
CLIMB: Babsi Zangerl's Secret to Her Exceptional Yosemite Resume — The American Alpine Club
"I like to suck" Babsi says...and this mentality means she's constantly trying climbing styles and skills that she's bad at. And with that sense of curiosity, she acquires a breadth of mastery that is evident in her Yosemite accomplishments... In many ways, Babsi Zangerl has flown under the radar here in the United States. She doesn’t like to brag—she just wants to climb hard. But her dedication to climbing has resulted in an astonishing Yosemite resume.
Legacy Series: Jack Tackle, First Ascents in the Alaska Range — The American Alpine Club
Jack Tackle was a van dweller before he became a climber, but on that first day, he was hooked. He loved the anarchy of the small fringe activity that was climbing, and he would go on to channel that anarchy into proud first ascents, including FA's on Waddington as well as throughout the Alaska Range. Dive into this film to hear Tackle's reflections on his mountain life, his first ascents, and what motivated him to keep pushing his technical edge.
GAME DAY: Hueco Rock Rodeo — The American Alpine Club
It’s about to be game on for the 28th annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, and so we had our own Game Day panel to talk shop about strategies for the competition, the major players to look out for, and how the condies are shaping up. We had Nina Williams and Jon Glassberg on the pod to chat podium predictions, climbing rivalries, whose injured, and whose coming in with momentum, and whether Daniel Woods is really going to win the Hueco Rock Rodeo, AGAIN.
CLIMB: Kyra Condie on Winning Hueco, Fear of Falling, and Trying Harder — The American Alpine Club
In this episode, we sit down with Mountain Hardwear athlete and Olympian Kyra Condie. Kyra has so much psyche and energy, and we had a wide ranging conversation, covering her past, present, and future climbing exploits. We start off with her experience winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo in 2017, her advice for competitors this year, and how her spinal fusion pushes her to have a creative mind and find her own beta.
Fixed Anchors: What's Next? — The American Alpine Club
A Brief Update on What’s Next When it Comes to Fixed Anchors in Wilderness The climbing community is collectively holding its breath while we wait to find out what the U.S. Forest Service and the National Park Service are going to do with their proposed regulations on fixed anchors. Now that the public comment period is over, and the agencies are categorizing, and reviewing the thousands of comments, we wait.
Fix CRUS: Help Protect Public Access to Recreation in Colorado! — The American Alpine Club
Policy Alert: Take Action! As climbers, many of us are familiar with the often delicate and fragile access to climbing on private land. In Colorado, we now have the opportunity to pass legislation to ensure that our access to our beloved climbing areas is no longer so tenuous. The crux of the matter is liability. The current Colorado Recreational Use Statute (CRUS) has private landowners concerned about the liability they take on when they allow the public to access their lands for recreation.
Legacy Series: Tom Frost — The American Alpine Club
Tom Frost was one of the leading climbers of his generation, making important first ascents on El Cap, like the North America Wall and Salathé Wall. He was also a world-class alpinist and one of the main photographers who crafted a visual record of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing, capturing the emotional imagery that would define a generation of climbers. Frost was at the forefront of defining clean climbing, often known for his enterprising and bold free climbing to avoid unnecessary bolting.
Legacy Series: George Lowe, World Class Climber — The American Alpine Club
Few Americans have had a climbing career anything like George Lowe’s. And we’re not the only ones who think so: The Piolets d’Or selected Lowe for their 2023 Lifetime Achievement Award. From first winter ascents of the Tetons’ highest peaks in the 1960s, Lowe moved on to cutting-edge climbs in Canada and Alaska in the 1970s, including the north faces of Mt. Alberta and North Twin in the Rockies and the Infinite Spur of Mt. Foraker in the Alaska Range.
The AAC's Official Stance on the Proposed Fixed Anchor Guidance from the NPS and USFS — The American Alpine Club
Thanks to the diligent and extensive research and work by our policy director, Byron Harvison, the AAC has submitted the following public comments to the National Park Service (NPS) and United States Forest Service (USFS) respectively, about their proposed fixed anchor guidance in Wilderness Areas, on January 30th, 2024. Read the full statements by clicking each button.
CLIMB: Tom Evans and Two Decades of Reporting on El Cap Climbing — The American Alpine Club
New episode of the American Alpine Club Podcast with legend Tom Evans: Tom Evans is the creator of the El Cap Report. He started out taking photos of all the climbers he’d see on El Cap, and got tired of answering questions about who was doing what and how X ascent was going. So he innovated.
TAKE ACTION: Share Your Voice on the Proposed Wilderness Fixed Anchor Guidelines — The American Alpine Club
Climbers have long been staunch defenders and careful stewards of our Wilderness landscapes in national forests and national parks since before the Wilderness Act of 1964. At the American Alpine Club, we want to ensure climbers' voices are heard on this issue. Let the National Park Service (NPS) and United States Forest Service (USFS) know that you support the responsible use of fixed anchors in Wilderness by submitting your comments to both agencies before January 16, 2024.
CONNECT: The FKT of the Rainier Infinity Loop, In Memory of A Friend — The American Alpine Club
Abby Westling and Kiira Antenucci were devastated to lose their friend Luke to a climbing accident in 2022. But as they learned to cope with this tragedy, they began to dream up something big. In July of 2023, Kiira and Abby set out to attempt The Infinity Loop, an epic endurance test piece that summits Rainer twice and circumnavigates the mountain via the Wonderland Trail.
CONNECT: Behind the Scenes of Climbing Mentorship, with Kimber Cross and Kit DesLauriers — The American Alpine Club
Kimber Cross is an adaptive climber who uses a custom prosthetic ice tool to climb waterfall ice around the country as well as alpine ice routes in her home state of Washington. She is a part of The North Face’s Athlete Development Program, and her mentor is long-time AAC supporter Kit DesLauriers, the first person to ski the seven summits. The AAC sat down with Kimber and Kit to talk about Kimber’s emerging career in alpinism and ski mountaineering.
PROTECT: A Yosemite Climbing Ranger Weighs in on Style, Sustainability, and Safety — The American Alpine Club
In this episode, we sit down with Head Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey to talk about the state of Yosemite climbing. We dig into what a climbing ranger’s job is like on a daily basis, and the knowledge Yosemite climbers should know that could prevent many accidents. We discuss the new splitter near Super Slide, as well as the need for, and initial success of the Big Wall Permit.
Climbing Grief Fund Spotlight: Gratitude — American Alpine Club
Grief, Beauty, and Loss in the Mountains by Hannah Provost “When Meg climbs on the Diamond these days, she can’t seem to shake a glimpse of red in her periphery–the color of Tom’s red Patagonia R1 as he climbed with her. When she turns to catch a better look, he’s not there. Tom: her dear friend, who fed a bumblebee on a belay ledge to bring it back to life; who encouraged Meg to lead harder and harder pitches on gear; who introduced her to her husband; who she trusted more than anyone on rock.
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