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Articles by Jason Lyons
June's Pizza's High Wire Act
June's Pizza's High Wire Act Breaking down the eccentric system producing real-deal results at Chef Craig Murli’s Oakland pizza shop The most captivating sight at June’s Pizza in Oakland, California, isn’t the ripping flame of the restaurant’s wood-fired oven or even the pizzaiolos tossing dough through the air. It’s the zip line. When Chef Craig Murli left behind a career in fine dining to open up a pizza shop, he knew he needed to lean into the nostalgia and comfort of the concept.
Celebrating the Flavors of the Nile
Celebrating the Flavors of the Nile Chef Philip Sanad is digging into the past for his pop-up, cooking personal dishes informed by recipes from pre-modern Egypt. “Egyptian food is highly undiscovered and highly underrepresented in the United States,” says Chef Philip Philip Sanad Sanad. “Not many people are writing about it, cooking it, or selling it.” Before embracing the cuisine this past year, neither was he.
The Power of the (Not So) Simple Salad
The Power of the (Not So) Simple Salad San Francisco chefs are doubling down on the humble salad, highlighting local produce as well as savvy techniques. Chef Gizela Ho's Oi-Naengguk Granita, Cucumber, Zucchini,, Tomato Dashi Gelée,, Sesame, Basil Oil, HerbS. |. Photos: Alexander Zeren Salads seem simple.
Stellar Sips n' Salty Snacks
Stellar Sips n' Salty Snacks Nashville sommeliers are embracing high-low pairings with elegant small bites and versatile wines. As palates change and diners drink less, sommeliers across the country are facing a challenge: How do they showcase quality without compromising comfort? In Nashville, many are building on the high-low theory, pairing fine wines with finger-licking foods.
Navigating The New Nashville
Navigating The New Nashville As Nashville continues to mature into a dynamic food city, local operators harness the incoming tide of new patrons while preserving the city’s character and community. Illustration: Sarah Budeski How does a city preserve its character while it welcomes in the new?
Chou Farci...The Appalachian Way
Chou Farci...The Appalachian Way At Audrey, Chef Sam Jett reimagines tomato gravy and sack sausage with the help of some old-school techniques. Grilled Pork Chop, Tomato Gravy, Pork-Stuffed Cabbage, Mashed Cabbage, Scallion OiL. |. Photos: Alexander Zeren Since taking over as the executive chef at Audrey, Chef Sam Jett has doubled down on local sourcing, technique-driven cooking, and the restaurant's Appalachian focus.
Classics in Session
Classics in Session Lu Lopez is creating a beacon for history, culture, and cocktail fundamentals in the Las Vegas bar scene. While coming up in the Las Vegas hospitality industry, Bartender Luis "Lu" Lopez didn't know what he was missing when it came to cocktails. It wasn't until he met influential Bartender Sam Ross while working at The Venetian—and had a taste of his first Clover Club and Penicillin—that he realized there was more to bartending than flavored vodkas and flashy service.
The Minds Behind Spirit & Seoul
The Minds Behind Spirit & Seoul Joe Arakawa and Jennifer Yim are celebrating Korean culture with every drink. Bartenders Joe Arakawa and Jennifer Yim knew each other from around town, but it wasn't until they got to chatting that they realized they had a common goal: to share Korean flavors and culture through cocktails. Arakawa, who runs the beverage program for EDO Hospitality, was working service when Yim, the lead bartender at The Cosmopolitan, came in for a drink.
Beyond the Boulevard
Beyond the Boulevard Not far from the Strip, independent Las Vegas restaurants are on the rise, attracting locals and tourists alike. Illustration: Rachel Krohn Las Vegas isn't a city known for subtlety or caution. But over the course of more than a decade, the city's hospitality community has undergone a somewhat slow and unexpected shift.
Identifying Patient Portal Messages from Care Partners of People with Dementia
Introduction Patient portals provide a centralized platform for accessing health information, facilitating communication with healthcare providers, managing appointments, and obtaining educational resources, which can improve care coordination for people with dementia and their care partners.
Reds, Whites (and Blue)
Reds, Whites (and Blue) Sommelier Eric Moorer opens up about his dedicated domestic wine program Sommelier Eric Moorer of Gemini | Photos: Alexander Zeren In Washington, D.C., patriotism isn’t scarce, but you might not expect to find it on the shelves of your local bottle shop. At Gemini, Chef Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s wine shop and wine bar, American viniculture is front and center thanks to Sommelier Eric Moorer.
Facing Disruptions Head-On
Facing Disruptions Head-On D.C. chefs and restaurateurs on how creativity, flexibility, and caring for staff breeds trust and resilience, even in the toughest of times Illustration: Rachel Krohn Operating a restaurant, or a hospitality business of any kind, is never easy. In Washington, D.C., the challenges can be accelerated thanks to a sometimes frustrating, sometimes wonderful, mix of tourists, locals, politicians, diplomats, and more.
On The Plate: Momos on the Move
On The Plate: Momos on the Move At Tapori, Chef Suresh Sundas reimagines the Tibetan and Nepalese dumpling for the D.C. crowd.
StarChefs - Next Step, Wine
Next Step, Wine Celebrated D.C. restaurants are upping the ante, investing in their wine programs with the help of some determined sommeliers. Illustration: Rachel Krohn If success is tied to how well you leverage momentum, then building on accolades and public attention is key to finding longevity in the hospitality industry. Reaching higher and farther, however, is easier said than done.
StarChefs - The Sweet Spot
The Sweet Spot Seattle’s pastry chefs are narrowing their focus and thriving with single- item concepts. Nine Pound Porter Chocolate Cake: Chocolate Cake, Porter Beer, Semisweet Chocolate Ganache, Edible Gold at Deep Sea Sugar & SalT | Photos: Alexander Zeren These days, it’s hard to be a pastry chef.
Built to Serve: The Evolving Impact of the Southern Smoke Foundation
Since moving to Houston nearly 30 years ago, Chef-Restaurateur Chris Shepherd has become one of the city's most vocal advocates and well-known culinary figures. Shepherd, who spent his early career cooking at Brennan’s and Catalan, built a hospitality group of his own with acclaimed restaurants like The Hay Merchant and Underbelly. Since then, he has written for publications like Food & Wine, launched a hot dog and sausage company, and now hosts a TV show on Houston’s local NBC affiliate station.
No Waste Left Behind
For Treviño, taking a look at the ingredients already coming through the door typically offers more ideas than staring at a blank canvas. “When I saw [Christian] was getting strawberries in, I had to get in on that,” she says.
Beyond the Brisket
Texas sausage and ribs get their time in the spotlight. Across Houston, and Texas for that matter, there’s a Holy Trinity that dominates the plates and trays of diners. Brisket, ribs, and sausage are the essential pillars, core tenants, and smoky commandments at the center of Texas-style barbecue. Brisket, in particular, has become the eyecatching, steadfast star in the lineup, and a benchmark of quality for pitmasters throughout the state.
The Motor City Mindset
At the Alkebu-lan Village on Harper Avenue, the former jewelry store-turned community center also offers pizza and plant-based bites thanks to Chef Brittany March of ItsFoodDetroit. Working with the folks at Alkebu-lan, March partnered with Culinary Pleasures—a youth program that teaches students kitchen and life skills—to launch Village Pizza. The weekend residency has not only allowed March to hone in on her craft, but has also sparked another passion in her as well.
StarChefs - Grain to Oven
Up in Kingston, the mission for a diverse range of grains was a long time coming. Randy—inspired by his friend, Farmer Bob Quinn—focuses entirely on ancient grain varietals at his farm, pivoting away from modern grains that are “making people sicker,” he says. From buckwheat to rye to einkorn and spelt, Randy is hoping to make these kinds of grains more accessible to bakers and chefs in the area along with his patrons at Eastern Market.
The Leto Campaign
As the pandemic ripped through the United States, thousands of people were left out in the cold—out of work, struggling, and scared—especially those working in hospitality. As the situation worsened, Pili Restrepo, who at the time was taking care of her one-year-old daughter, began to wonder how women working in restaurants, particularly single mothers, were going to survive. While Restrepo had support from her husband, Josh Hackler, she knew that wasn't the case for everyone.
Gotta Drink 'Em All
What do ferments and fire-breathing dragons have in common? At first, you might think, not much, but Bartender Derek Stilmann would say otherwise. Bar Kaiju, his monster-inspired cocktail bar—concealed and perched above The Citadel food hall—was first catalyzed by his obsession with fermentation. A veteran of bartending competitions and the former manager of some of the city’s best cocktail bars, Stilmann started to dream up a bar of his own shortly after the pandemic.
Hospitality, Romanian-Style
Although the transition back to everyday life was a challenge, Popa returned to the United States with a sense of purpose. Like many others entering hospitality, he started working as a dishwasher. At Zai Lai, a Taiwanese food stall in Columbus Circle, he became a prep cook and then a line cook before eventually becoming the kitchen manager. Learning from Chef Edward Huang, Popa got a feel for the operations side of the business while developing his culinary talent.
Next Gen Bodegas, Delis, and Luncheonettes
Although it may come as a relief to some, leaving the world of fine dining can be unexpectedly daunting. “I think it's tough for fine dining chefs to find their niche after leaving,” says Chef Antonio Barbieri. “Those restaurants are so regimented and organized, and everyone is at the top of their game.
Soft Shell Crab #3
According to Chef Luis Herrera, summer is “the happiest time in New York.” That’s because it's the beginning of soft shell crab season. Like chefs all across the city, Herrera celebrates the arrival of the warm weather with his own clever spin on the crowd-pleasing crustacean. At Ensenada, his Williamsburg restaurant, the crab provides an annual opportunity to highlight the best ingredients of the season. “Each summer, I have a different set for the soft shell crab,” he says.
The Breakfast Club
“We are kind of obsessed with sandwiches,” says Chef-Owner Jeremiah Schenzel of Daps Breakfast & Imbibe in Charleston. "What is the most epic sandwich that comes to mind? That's the club sandwich. Everyone knows it. [It’s] the king of sandwiches.” So, when Schenzel set out to create a new breakfast sandwich for the menu, he knew he wanted to go big.
StarChefs - Holy Crab Rice!
Tying the culinary traditions of the Lowcountry to more personal flavors comes naturally for Chef Bintou N’Daw. Crab is “so typical for South Carolina, but in Senegal we eat crab also. So it's those little things that remind me of both Senegal and Charleston.” Crab rice became an exciting way for her to share the flavors of her upbringing, and of Africa more broadly, with the local community.
Farming with Purpose at The Gary Comer Youth Center
How and when did the Urban Agriculture program at the Gary Comer Youth Center start? And how did the relationship between the center and Bocadillo Market develop? Sandra Reno: Since 2011, we have been building out the farm as a greenspace oasis and a way for young people to really find a lot of things. We try to build the programs to be about skill building, community engagement, and food access. We start with middle school.
StarChefs - Second Act City
For over a decade, Mike Satinover worked in market research, starting as an analyst before climbing up the corporate ladder. But back when he was in college, studying business and marketing, he also studied Japanese. “I went to the University of Wisconsin-Madison because it had one of the best Japanese programs in the country,” says Satinover. During college, he spent a year living in Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan, the birthplace of miso ramen.
Sourcing at Anticonquista Café
For Elmer Fajardo Pacheco and Lauren Reese of Anticonquista Café, their business has always been a family affair. The couple works with and sources their beans from Fajardo’s farm in Chiquimula, Guatemala, which is managed by his brothers, who both have farms of their own. The close relationship between the farm and the roasters has led to a slew of impressive advantages for the couple as they grow their business.
StarChefs - Verjus in Lieu
With several brands now available in the United States, there is greater variety in the kinds of traits chefs and bartenders can pull out of verjus. While some are still better for culinary applications, bartenders like Nicole Yarovinsky are appreciating verjus for its “body” and finding ways to incorporate even more dynamic flavors into the juice. “I would rather infuse verjus because of its textural components.
It's Rarebit Season!
In Newton, Massachusetts, Chef-OwnersKate and Trevor Smithhave found a way to bring their passion for European flavors, techniques, and ingredients to the Boston suburbs. Their cozy, refined gastropub Thistle & Leek—nestled comfortably on Union Street in Newton’s Piccadilly Square— has become a neighborhood favorite with dishes that embrace seasonality and bring a fresh perspective to traditional English pub fare.
Spirits Of The Well
Down a clandestine staircase in Boston’s Back Bay is an intimate, cave-like, candle-lit bar, where guests are sipping on the mysteries of antiquity and taking a plunge into the mythical and mystical. Inside, the mood is dark and enigmatic. Through a chained curtain, a single light dangles over the black marble bar, luring the eyes of patrons to the modern day Charon guiding their journey with shaker in hand.
Skirts, Collars, and Bones
But as noble as utilization can be, there is a financial incentive as well. The goal is “to reduce food waste, but also reduce food cost,” says Dow, “it's both financially and environmentally righteous.” Oftentimes, particular cuts—even atypical cuts like the collar, head, and tail which Dow sometimes runs as specials—can wind up paying for the whole fish. It’s a symbiotic relationship. “[You] get a better bang for your buck when using the whole fish,” says ChefBrian Gianpoalo.
How To: Crispy Pork Belly
THE CURE At Si! Mon, Chef Christian Truong cures his pork belly for over 48 hours. But before he air-dries the pork in the walk-in, the flesh side gets a generous coating of five spice, sugar, and salt while the skin side is prepped with the help of a needle-lined meat tenderizer.
Snacks and Tracks
Since Lasita opened in 2021, Chef-OwnerNico de Leon and Owners Chase and Steff Valenciaknew they wanted to incorporate live music into their space. It started last year during Filipino-American history month. “We wanted to create an event to feature Ringgo (aka MNDSGN),” says de Leon. “He’s a good friend of ours, so we wanted to showcase who he is and what he does, being a Filipino artist.” The event started to take shape once de Leon put a set of specials on the menu inspired by the artist.
StarChefs - Samosa Pijja
Tavern-Style Crust: “Our pizza is East Coast tavern-style,” says Chef Miles Shorey of Pijja Palace, the Indian-inspired sports bar in Los Angeles’ Silver Lake neighborhood. Drawing on his experience at Roberta’s in Culver City, Shorey was inspired by the Star Tavern and Colony Grill for his dough recipe, as well as Pizza Hut’s thin crust pizzas, which he used to eat as a kid.
Truss, Tie, Hang, and Dry
As he rose through the ranks at Vetri Cucina, Chef Jacob Rozenberg picked up a personal passion along the way. Salumi, he realized, spoke to him. “When I started at Osteria,” says Rozenberg, “Vetri was open six days a week. On the seventh day, we would all get together and make salami for the restaurants. It was awesome.
Truss, Tie, Hang, and Dry at Vetria Cucina
As he rose through the ranks at Vetri Cucina, Chef Jacob Rozenberg picked up a personal passion along the way. Salumi, he realized, spoke to him. “When I started at Osteria,” says Rozenberg, “Vetri was open six days a week. On the seventh day, we would all get together and make salami for the restaurants. It was awesome.
Enter Black Dragon
Philadelphia, like most cities across America, is a melting pot of cultures, but in West Philadelphia, Chinese takeout restaurants long beloved by the local community have steadily disappeared: enter, Black Dragon Takeout. Through his new culinary venture, Chef Kurt Evans has a plan to resuscitate abandoned Chinese takeout spots across Philadelphia, re-envision American cuisine, and invest in his local community.
The Lighter Side of Squash
At Southwark, Chef Ryan LaFrance transforms winter produce into a delicate dish. Ask Chef Ryan LaFrance where he sources his ingredients from and prepare yourself for an enthusiastic lesson on each farmer, vendor, vegetable, and hog coming into his kitchen at Southwark.
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