Editor's note: This article first published in 2018. As chef and owner of Varanese, River House and Levee at River House, John Varanese’s plate was already full. Now he needs a larger plate. Only days ago, he and his wife, Jeanna, welcomed a baby boy. “It’s going to be my payback for giving my mom hell,” he said of his son. Although his son’s career is years away, his dad has given some thought to it.