Having only been to Oahu and Maui, I was stunned by what greeted me on the Big Island this spring: In place of sparkling greenery and tropical blooms was a land that is stark, painted black by lava flows long past. It is astoundingly beautiful here, I think, resisting the urge to hop out of the car and hug one of the many wild goats we spot along the “Queen K” road to the Four Seasons Hualālai.