Noah Chichester

In certain circles of the wine world, it might not be enough to demonstrate that you know about wine; you have to show that you know the right wines. There’s pressure to recognize references, to zero in on the right bottles and be seen drinking them. Taken to the extreme, drinking wine because it tastes good is replaced by drinking wine that signals your own good taste. I thought about this when I read an essay, “The End of Taste as Currency,” by the art director Zoë Yasemin.

Noah Chichester reports on the creative tensions between traditionalists and terroiristes in Rioja. There is no energy unless there is a tension of opposites,” wrote Carl Jung, and nowhere in the wine world does that feel more relevant today than in Rioja. As Spain’s oldest denominación de origen celebrates its centenary, it finds itself in the middle of a standoff between two visions of the future.

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