Srinagar is full — well, almost. Tourists are making a beeline to the capital, clogging roads in ways that bring to mind Delhi traffic. The summer months also draw government panels and parliamentary committees, drawn as much by official business as by the cooler climes. Yet, not every shikara is full. Last spring's Pahalgam attack lingers in the minds of travellers, even as locals insist the situation is far more settled than outsiders believe.